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Well then I don't have to worry about that cuz its not for me.
Your machine work looks great. Makes me jealous.
That engine looks like modern art. Excellent!!
Almost two hours to catch up from beginning to where I started following this thread which was around the brembo painting process. Didn't realize that u have actually almost competed the AWD set up.
Looks great. Lots of effort into this.
Can u provide me with info on the connectors and pics that u used for the conversion harness?? I would like to make one for me or maybe repin my actual harness.
Jared you running a stock crank or a Manley Billet?
Yeah i can help you, just have to give me a wire count with the auto.Quote:
Originally Posted by spdracr
Oem stockQuote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
Very very nice! The engine looks well machined the head look perfect! Nice job on the side skirts too.
I would appreciate that. I will let u know when I'm at that stage. Thanks a bunch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Why all this work money and stock crank?? Would it handle your power goals??
Thanks bro.Quote:
Originally Posted by keith6110
The reason with oem crank is because i used howard rods, and those can only be used with an oem crank. Will it sacrifice power? It shouldntQuote:
Originally Posted by spdracr
FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPPPPPPPPPPPp
They told you Howard rods can only be used with an OEM crank? Did they give an explanation why? Why would they make a 800+ whp rod that can only be used on a crank that's max limit is in the 750-850whp range?
Ok so I just read up on them. I get why they did it, but can't believe they didn't make 2 versions. Sucks I planned on using them on my next bottom end. Looks like I'll be going Manley instead.
Thanks man. lol you know the secret though so shhh...Quote:
Originally Posted by Corey2kG
Idk about 850 range.... check it outQuote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyn...stock-ecu.html
It lasted for quite a while, Almost 8 months, of dragging and high high rpm shifts, untill it threw a rod, crank was fine though.
Funny thing is I have pretty much the same set up, except for that turbo, it will take too long to spool up.
Wow just wow. That's just raw power there. Maybe one day ill have one of those lol
Lol
Ok i have looked and looked in the manual and on evo m, maybe i missed it but i cannot find the rear main seal torque specs and the windage tray torque specs
Honestly. I have never used a torque wrench on the windage tray or rear main seal. I would say like 10ft/lbs on the windage bolts with a little loctite to be safe. Rear main seal I would say maybe 15-20 inch/lbs.
BTW use loctite on almost everything. Without balance shafts and with solid mounts shit is gonna vibrate loose all the time.
Cool cuz that's what i did. And yep lock tight ftw!
Random question, does the 2g fuel sending unit look like ours? I'm curious if it will work with the double pumper setup
It looks nothin like ours. It's just a metal top plate with a pump hanger. Your best bet is to run a full blown 2g double pumper. I know some people mod the 2g plate and make it a double pumper. What are your power goals? I run one in-tank 255 and one in-line 255 old school AMS style and it works well. You can also just run a single aeromotive 340lph and be good into the mid 600 to low 700 range. If your running E85 I think the double pumper is the only option due to the higher volume requirements.
dont run full blown...its Fully Blown crap that never Stops Leaking!!!!
Double pumper really is my only option, fuel is between e85 and e98, only thing I'm worried about is water absorbtion. I've heard too many problems with aeromotive so im Thinking deatsch werks 320 lph, 2 of themQuote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
Where does it leak, at the unions where the fuel lines connect?Quote:
Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099
it leaks on top where they epoxyed in the wires... Just do this
David Buschur [email protected]
Jul 26
to me
I can build you a double pumper, it's $500 complete. I don't use other pumps because I want these to leave here with our modded pumps in them and the socks/location of the socks that I prefer, it's not just because I want to make money on selling the fuel pumps, just so you know.
Does he have a 340 lph option?
email and ask... he does require you to send him your original assembly
Crap Lol gotta find one
Ok never mind that whole idea.. What you need is just a 2g walboro 450 pump. And that's it!
-Roman
Got some items installed them.
Head gasket, h11 head studs, and lifters.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-17-31_893.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...12-53-48_6.jpg
just make sure to bleed the lifters again before installing the cams...with all the money invested here last thing you need is some bent valves lol
did you go with a modified oem headgasket?
I know lol, i bled themQuote:
Originally Posted by fatal1
No, pe heavy metal gasket. I had a hard time choosing, was reading for a while on evom, and yeah. Ultimately, decided based on maps liking to this gasket, and seeing the power that it was capable of.Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
Ok, I'm having some problems finding items i need. Basically because I'm going with a fluid dampner pulley, i have to redo the whole serpentine line. I cannot find the alternator tensioner bolts, the long one and the short one. I have caps, cannot locate them, any ideas? Also, do the evo and galant use the same power steering pump?
As far as cam gears, how the heck do we get the fridanza lined up? I'm a bit confused
the timing is tricky, the way brian did mines was by lining up the dowel pins on the inside of the cam gears, it comes out being about 7 degrees off from the increased deck hieght.
its funny though as many 2.4 motors that are out there on evom when you ask or search how to time one all you hear is crickets lol.
theres another way though that i did find on evom were the end result is the both the cam gears are about 3.5 degrees out which to me made alot more sense.
its long read but its good
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-eng...ctly-time.html
since MAP did your short block i would call them up and ask them, they should be able to tell you no problem.
Good link. It is nothing but an argument between 3 members about who's right lolQuote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
well i did say long read lol, but the info. is there just gotta look past the bs
I got a good understanding until they started arguing again and I lost it. I should have stopped once I got it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
yeah I got lost too lol.
OK I need a good product to attach the fender flares, other wise I'm drilling holes for the rears, they are being a pain. I have tried 3m molding tape, 3m molding tape with gasket glue... still pops off. I'm a bit pissed off right now about that lol
Car looks sick! And the skirts came out really nice
do you know how much map took off of the head and block when they resurfaced it? all that plays a part in timing your enigne. since you have the engine out of the car just use a degree wheel. you wont get more exact then that.
i have mine set at +3/+3 using the 94 galant belt
thanks man, sadly I will have to repaint them again lol. as well as the front bumper, metallic is tricky to lay it on right.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99galantES
I don't know off the top but I could ask them. I was going to use a degree wheel, but never used one at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by underated