[QUOTE=eclipsh;595215]Got a package tonight.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ipsh/002-3.jpg
:066:
Very nicee
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[QUOTE=eclipsh;595215]Got a package tonight.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ipsh/002-3.jpg
:066:
Very nicee
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The head studs are the wrong size.
Turns out that ARP's catalog is mixed up. The dealer sent me head studs for a 6 bolt motor. He'll send the correct ones out and send out a call slip to collect the ones I have. Just one more setback to deal with.
I did get a fair amount done on the short block including mounting the oil and water pumps, installing the balance shafts, rear main seal and painting the whole setup.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/054.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/053.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/051.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/052.jpg
The last picture there shows a size 10 JIC fitting welded to the '64 drain pan. I always fought leaks on the stock bolt on flange style fitting so I decided to ditch it for this setup.
Oh and yes, those bolts do have oil on them. Should have cleaned them, didn't.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/020.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/019.jpg
Still waiting on head studs. I used four old head bolts to hold things together until they arrive. I should be getting the tranny bolted up and putting everything back in the car within the week. Obviously can't start it up or fill it with fluids until the studs get here.
Crap i wish i would have seen this earlier. Was going to tell you to put a little rtv on the freeze plugs just to make sure they do not drop through when the engine heats up.
Not a bad idea but they should be fine as they'll heat up and expand right along with the block. I'm sure the expansion rates aren't the same but my machinist put these in and said he used a little larger plugs and really jammed them in there so they're tight.
Jeeez man. Want to trade?
LOL, I wish my car looked as clean as yours but no.
Very Nice.. why not paint over the thermo housing in silver and hit the manifold with a light coat of high heat black... Awesome work so far..
Looking very nice and clean man =)
Though, I wouldn't advise painting alloy heads or blocks, as they tend to make the engine overheat due to the heat not being dispersed out of the metal. However, it does take a while for this to happen :)
Ive been told since my ENTIRE engine is black.. I mean EVERYTHING that i would suffer from heat soak and whatnot. Been running like that for 2 years and no issue.. YET.. Anyways looking good man. I wouldnt have gone with silver for the block but it seems like a promising build ;-) Edit: Whats the deal with cylinders 2 and 3? Looks like they have some pretty nasty scratches on the upper part.
It runs :) Got it fired up and drove it around the subdivision a bit. I need to do some messing around with the exhaust. I can't get it to stop rubbing the drive shaft. I've got some wire around it tying it off to the driver's side frame rail to try and hold it to that side until I can get it on a lift and get it right. I'll be taking it to my mechanic's shop in the morning to check on the AC system. Hopefully I can get that working too.
Nice! Hope to see some action vids soon!
can we get some zero radias donut vids when the snow falls?
I'll try my best to get some action videos soon. The car sounds deeper and meaner now with the 2.4. I'm really loving it. Spool seems faster too but I really need to get it tuned to be sure. My mechanic and I got the A/C working and got the exhaust clearanced a bit more. I will see about doing some tuning on the car tomorrow.
The new transmission was a real PITA to shift at first. It wouldn't go into any gears until it had idled for a while and gotten the oil into everything. I couldn't get into reverse until after I made it into town and no 5th gear until I got home. It is loosening up though and shifting much smoother. By the time the engine is broken in it should be nice and smooth.
I took a coworker for a quick parking-lot spin and let him drive it tonight. He heard the BOV go off and went, "Holy shit, is this thing turbo?" This was after looking in the engine bay. I laughed, told him yes and then I drove him and pinned him to the seat with a quick 1-2 pull and then slammed him into the seat belt with braking as hard as I could. "Damn, dude...." Yeah. I love my car ;) Can't wait to tune it and crank the boost up to 20.
As far as not going into gears, you might also check your clutch pedal arm. I have issues with the nut working it's way up the shaft(no pun intended) so when you press on the pedal i'm not disengaging the clutch as much as i think i am. in turn making it harder to get in and out of gear. I've had to adjust mine several times over the years... in fact it needs to be adjusted now, i just don't feel like getting upside down under my dash to do it.
the easiest way to check is to look at your pedals, if they look like they are all on the same plane, equal distance from the floor, then you'll might need to adjust the clutch. it should be slightly raised compared to the brake and gas.
excellent news eclipsh on a side note I can't help but to laugh at this one blue ice.
"I have issues with the nut working it's way up the shaft"
Thanks for the advice Blue. I've had that happen in the past too and put some work into making sure everything under the dash was nice and tight this spring. I had the same shifting issues on the last rebuild AWD tranny I had. They're just stiff at first and need to be driven to loosen things up. It is shifting fine now. Clutch engagement is only a couple inches up off the floor but so far as I can tell that just seems to be the way these cars are. It would be nice if it was more in the middle.
Looking good bro, my clutch engages the same as yours, i've had mine for going for 6 months now and i'm still nearly stalling it on occasion
I've got my block, head and rocker cover all painted with high heat gloss black and i'm the same as "shadow19", havn't had any problems with overheating, in fact i'm struggling to even keep my car at temperature
very nice build though mate
Got the A/C fans wired to turn on with the A/C system now. I guess I didn't mention it but I've switched over to using a radiator out of a 90-91 Eclipse. It's all metal and has the sensor for tripping the fans right where I want it to be. I'm using the 95 radiator cap/feed off the thermostat housing. The 1GA DSM radiator is narrower by two inches and shorter by an inch but it is thicker by 3/8 so ends up being a larger volume radiator anyway. It meant some funky fabrication to get the Galant fans on though. I would have used the 1GA fans but they are too thick and the A/C fan hit the turbo.
To get the fans working I ended up jumping a pair of wires on the underside of the under hood relay/fuse box. I took the ECU trigger wires from the low speed relays of both fans and jumped them to pin 1 (I think) of the A/C relay. Now both fans kick on at low speed as soon as the A/C turns on. I'm not sure how the fans will like it when they need to kick to high speed and they're still getting a low speed signal too but I'll find out! Incidentally, for those who don't know, the ECU trips the fans by grounding the relays. The sensor in the bottom of the 1gA radiator does the same thing so that was very strait forward to wire into the high speed relays of both fans.
The cruise control still doesn't work. I'll need to dig through the wiring diagrams again to see what's going on with that.
I've also found an oil leak already! It's coming from the oil filter housing. I can't tell exactly where. I'll need to take the cooling sandwich out and replace the seal in there and see if that does the trick. I would have already but I don't have a socket or trustworthy wrench to do it with. The last thing I want to do is have a wrench slip off and scratch the seat for the oil filter.
7g, have you replaced your thermostat? My car warms up within a few miles of driving it and holds temperature really well.