Not getting stuck cuz I'm towing it there lolQuote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
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Not getting stuck cuz I'm towing it there lolQuote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
Yea thats great idea, Ive always wanted to go but its too far for me.
I've never been anywhere besides Englishtown and my local track.
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Love the splitters B. Car wish I was closer I'd take the Evo and have you teach me how to drive lol!
I may see you in Ohio spdracr! I have a few testing days and import wars events out here this year. Going to most likely trailer Babyg there as well
I am so anxious to go. Definitely planning on going, I had already booked the hotel room back in February. I may keep my boost levels down for the sake of preserving the transmission while getting more seat time so I can make it to Ohio.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4g63lover
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Parts are showing up lil by lil
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/...62f2eb42_c.jpg20160522_204141_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/...4da1c98f_c.jpg20160522_204348_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
And the evo 5spd is at the shop being rebuilt as I type. The gearset is being cryo/ rem isf treated and installing a 4:08 final drive along with carbon syncros. If its last me two years I will be extremely happy if not then Im turning this motor to the side and installing a Tremec..... Jus kidding
Hoping to have it done and ready to test at the July event at a brand new track in Fredricksburg VA.
I'll leave this here!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...91e3393c46.jpg
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Facebook kiddd LMAO, that's me and Im on a mission.
Lol
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So what exactly is needed to be done to run that Evo trans fwd?
Welded front diff. I believe that's it. That was what Brian told me when I discussed this with him.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4g63lover
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The spider gears on the diff thats in the trans have to be welded. Its actually the center diff, the diff in the tcase is the front diff. The tcase is pretty easy, you remove the pinion and the tail housing that surrounds it and the you make a block off plate for the opening that is left behind and your done. So it actually makes it half the size an easier to install as opposed to the awd swap where you have huge issues with the steering rack, tunnel clearence, and subframe. Also the subframe and k frame requires some questionable knotching for clearance .
And noted and saved! Sir hope u available when i come around to this.Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
So is impossible to run without tcase? (Front part of it atleast)
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I'll keep that in mind for sure. Thanks for the info B!
No problem, yea tcase is a must but with out the tail housing and pinion.
Ok nice. ThxQuote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
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are you going to have that acd tcase converted to a non acd? just a heads up it wont turn all 4 in its current state unless you are installing the acd pump and everything that goes with it. learned that the hard way lol
Yea ide hate to have to find out the hardway lol, thanks. But im not going the acd route. Funny thing is i bought a non acd from a jdm type junkyard on ebay and they sent me a acd case. So i had to send it back for a replacement, what a pain in the ass when you have return something so big and heavy.
yah shipping mine to shep would have been a nightmare if they didnt send that fitted box lol
That box is so worth it for $40 bucks. They were nice enough to sell me a box so i can use it ship the used tranny i bought on evom. Fedex guy wasnt to happy though.
Updating a bit, I haven't really been able to get as much done as would I like to but its slowly moving along.
A couple of weeks ago is when I actually got started, I lowered the engine and rolled it out from under the car. Made things a lil easier but not by much, I could've swapped transmissions with the motor in the car but its always such a pain in the ass that I always say next time Im gonna pull the engine so I did.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8812/2...d5ec2b4e_c.jpg20160704_182652 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8870/2...dc4f6bde_c.jpg20160704_215239 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8801/2...e3799128_c.jpg20160704_215332 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7405/2...4606f037_c.jpg20160704_215343 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
I didn't realize the exhaust a hangers were attached to the subframe so Im gonna have come up with something different.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8804/2...7897b250_c.jpg20160711_212317 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8820/2...38c2fc0e_c.jpg20160711_212334 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
I started to fit the Evo rack on the new sub frame and found a few issues.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7295/2...3b29f500_c.jpg20160712_090338 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8841/2...110b8b21_c.jpg20160712_090327 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
One was one of the mounting holes for the rack is offset by 1/4". The other is fine so Ill just use a smaller diameter bolt for the offset hole and I should be fine.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7432/2...db1015e5_c.jpg20160711_210657 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Another problem was fitting the clamp for the sway bar. Cause of the design of the subframe it doesn't allow for a two bolt hole clamp which would just sandwich the bar and bushing to the subframe. This one only allows for a single loop that they had cut and welded together in order to get the correct shape.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7332/2...2d14dbc2_c.jpg20160711_210713 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Since its been welded together spreading it to fit over the end of the sway bar seems impossible. Im worried Im gonna break the weld so im gonna grind the ends of the sway bar and then it should fit over the end. Also the bushing doesn't exactly fit in there with a bit of persuasion so I hope that doesn't present a problem while trying to slide the clamp over the sway bars bends.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8814/2...663466a8_c.jpg20160711_210741_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
On another note I decided go to the last track event in June even though I don't have a car, I figure I would go and spectate since it was only like 60 miles from me. I brought my kids with me but It turned out to be so frickin hot that we didn't stay very long but I did catch some flicks of some of my favorite cars.
Ferrari Challenge
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8761/2...a3f54549_c.jpg20160611_163316 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Supercharged NSX
https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7363/2...a8d9c646_c.jpg20160611_163322 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8810/2...abfb1bee_c.jpg20160611_163424 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7425/2...0a4617ab_c.jpg20160611_163412 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
My boys, 3 and 4 yr olds
https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8721/2...115ba208_c.jpg20160611_160918 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
My oldest in front of a friends 240, he tends to talk a lot and will go on and on and this picture captures it lol.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8594/2...8c7c7d9b_c.jpg20160611_165701 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Great. Day by day bro. Cheetoos always a win for kids. Hahahaha.
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Yea cheetos and cheese puffs are the best.
R u using lower evo timing belt cover? Also are you using the sonata or evo plate to hold that cam cover in place??
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All evo
The sway bar mounts are easy. No grinding of the bar, just spread them a little. Also put the mounts and bushings in the middle of the bar, and the tap them out into position with a hammer. It's a tight fit and God forbid if you have to take them out again ( I did lol) but it works! My rack mounts were dead on that's weird. Do you have balance shafts? If not double nut and red lock tight on subframe studs.
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Thanks for the tips, Ill try that but Im just worried the the material around the welds will weaken and snap especialy if I did to change sway bars. The fabricator actually left out a weld on the inside of the strap on one side. That one Im really worried it will weaken if I spread it. Ill probaly run another bead for it, and by the way thanks for those pics again they really helped out.
I see you pmd me. My inbox was full. It's empty now. I replied. You're inbox is full lol
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Lol no doubt i just wanted to ask you if you fitted any type of bushings in between the chassis and the subframe mounts.
No I did not. Seriously thought about it, but I need the to keep the tail section of the tcase from knocking so I wanted no flex at all
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I see, but it might of helped in a way. With maybe a 1/4 - 1/2 poly bushing it would space it down and reduce any chance of hitting. I dunno for sure but I have some bushing that I might try to fit on.
That must be one hell of a vibration though.
I agree with using some type of bushing if possible. It doesn't need to be much, but just enough to dampen a little vibration while allowing very little movement. What I would have in mind is something similar to the cross-member bushings that are part of the engine mount inserts. But of course, it all comes down to how much space you have to work with and unfortunately I don't know what kind of space you guys have with the 4cyl as I've only dealt with V6 AWD cars on this platform.
It's gonna change your mounting point of the rear engine mountQuote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
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I didnt think of that
One of the things I wanted to do was to weigh everything I removed from the car and all the new parts to go in to have make a comparison and also just cause I love to collect data plus it comes in real handy when corner balancing.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7630/2...e5c92c4e_b.jpg20160727_142246 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Yes, Im too lazy to type it in. So basically the new trans set up by itself added 66 lbs, but with the new chromoly subframe and aluminum LCA's it dropped 20 lbs, Evo axles dropped by 8 lbs and Im sure I could on and on but not many will care lol but that's ok cause I love data and comparisons. In the end the new setup weighs 344 lbs and the old weighs in at 315 lbs so it gained 29 lbs overall so even though it lost weight in some areas in gained in others not to mention what the future splitter project will add. I guess it time to look into getting a carbon fiber hood.
Here some pics of the process in the 100 degree like weather.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8741/2...038b376f_c.jpg20160720_165112 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Anyone need a core??
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8602/2...78ebc6bd_c.jpg20160720_170214 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Or a clutch and flywheel?
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8712/2...0a24a86c_c.jpg20160720_170708 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Or axles with intermediate upgrade?
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7762/2...e24e9ef3_c.jpg20160720_175919 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
New subframe and Evo rack.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7493/2...a24e1ee7_c.jpg20160720_174852 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
This past weekend I was able to spend a lot of time on it, my wife took the kids to New York to visit family and I stayed behind. It was great having the house to myself, I don't think I had that much time to my self since the kids where born lol. Anyway I started on the sway bar, damn that thing was such pain. I know Jared gave me some tips but I still couldn't get it to work, I hate forcing things cause Im always worried it will break or if it has to come out its another nightmare.
In the end I shaved down the end of the sway bar to slip on the metal strap. I also fought with bushings and I don't know how Jared hammered those in but it was impossible for me so I shaved like an 1/8" off the back, cut the bushing in half and shaved off the retaining lip off one side. After that it slipped into the strap fine, sorry no pics of the struggle, just the actual strap over the end of the bar.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8206/2...4460b5c3_c.jpg20160723_165831_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Next issue after I tried to install the subframe was part of the fire wall is hitting the sway bar and wont let the entire setup to raise into place. Hammer time!
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8066/2...65f2fa3a_c.jpg20160725_141751 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
So heres another issue I have with this whole setup. This is a pic of the rear mount of the LCA, the bolt drops in vertically but my issue is theres no room to drop in the bolt from the topside down while the subframe is in place. This would be my prefence for a couple of reasons, one so that if the nut vibrated off the bolt would still be there and nothing catastrophic would happen while on track just a lot of vibration. Second reason is when I change ball joints I wont have to remove the whole subframe.
I understand that designing a subframe isn't easy and giving up some practicality is required but still it kinda sucks lol
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8514/2...b052c085_c.jpg20160725_200720 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
On to the next part since Im to lazy to go forward with the subframe install, the clutch. Last night the kids were in the garage with me, here they are taking the cover plate off a $1300 clutch.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8673/2...1fb12a71_c.jpg20160726_201506 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8505/2...102e3f4d_c.jpg20160726_203345 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
I know Im crazy but deep down inside I hope my kids get into motorsports as a career, I know Ill never push them into it like some parents do with other sports instead I just hope they take to it cause they like that's why I just let them go at it when there interested in what Im doing.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8623/2...6ce4b92d_c.jpg20160726_202228 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8670/2...be508009_c.jpg20160726_202207 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/2...1db36384_c.jpg20160726_202040 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8743/2...e54d7b83_c.jpg20160726_203647 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
This twin disc looks intimidating to install, even the instructions are in Japanese. There translated in English right below after each Japanese sentence, makes it confusing.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8850/2...6c92b1b1_c.jpg20160726_203235 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
And here Iam at a stand still again, the 8g flywheel bolts have a different shank then what the Evo flywheel require. It needs more threads and less blank part of the shank other wise the bolts will be tight but the flywheel will be flopping around. Order some ARP's from Extreme PSI last night, should be here tomorrow.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8788/2...32943b87_c.jpg20160726_204930 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr
Looks good dude! A couple of suggestions. The hard line p/s, make it flexible. I changed mine after two years, I had chafing into the tcase from the steel line. For the lca bolt, safety wire works for piece of mind. Or you can get the tab lock washers and drill a hold to fold one flap into the subframe, and another over the nut.
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I may be interested in the axle and intermediate upgrade.
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Two good ideas Jared, do you know the thread size of the the high pressure side outlet off the rack?
You need check and make sure you have the bosses tapped on thr back of the block in order to attach the bracket.
I have the bosses tapped from factory. One of the lines is M14 and one m16 on the rack. I can't remember which is which though.Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
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The Evo rack is a lil different from the 8g if your getting the thread sizes from that. The Evo rack has a bango fitting on the high side and barb for the low side. Ill just have to pull the bango and measure it I just hate pulling those rack fittings cause there easy to strip, at least easy for me.
Let me know if you want that axle and Ill get it boxed up.