only the best!
Printable View
only the best!
A good drill press and some careful attention to detail and it works just fine. For the turbo Volvo's we drill out the oil feed for the turbo and tap the block regularly. Also if a factory style drain is desired the block has to be drilled yet again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
Obviously being careful and using the right tools makes all the difference.
What's the benefit of that axle swap?? Obviously reduce or eliminate torque steer. But how does it work?? I'm just curious to under the way it works. Loving your project man. I'd hate to have a gutter car but that's just me lol
Sent from my Galaxy S4
Double post
Axle shafts of equal length create equal pressure on the knuckle which balances them under acceleration.
Pretty much what he said, the side with the shorter axle gets the most torque which is the driver side for us. At the track under hard acceleration the car mostly pulls to the left with some tendencies to go right which makes passing dangerous. I have to manage the throttle in order to avoid contact with slower traffic, hopefully this helps.
heres a write up I found on it
http://www.aa1car.com/library/torque_steer.htm
This thread deserves its title because i see a lot of money going into this
You will enjoy the equal length axle setup, as I enjoy mines on my 7G.
MR953479Quote:
Originally Posted by greddy
Bolts should be M10 x 1.25 x 40mm(L)
^^^^That's what Im hoping for, did you notice a big improvement?
Finally got to the garage garage Wednesday night, we had like 5-8 inches of snow fall in are area Monday. So here are the part numbers....
3817A008 Bracket kit
MR145574 Cover, Fr
MR953479 Shaft, Fr
MB526617 Cover, Fr
MB837241 Bolt, Fr (order 2)
MF450406 Washer (order2)
MB526680 Dust seal (This actually comes in the Bracket kit and I ordered it not knowing so now I have spare seal which I never a bad thing)
MR111742 Clip, Fr
My total cost was 229.00 plus a axle from NAPA for 70.00 + a 55.00 core charge.
Make sure to check your block and see if your bosses are drilled and tapped before your order anything!
Oh yes there is a noticeable difference especially in steering and acceleration.Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
Wow man, a lot of that is outside my realm of understanding, but I get the gist. Good job. So how deep is the money pit as of now? 15k, 20k?
Who knows I don't keep track but it probably close to that in the past 10 or 12 years.
Yesterday morning I brought the car to the dyno and unloaded it off the trailer, put it 1st gear to drive it up to the shop and the shifter cable snaps off at the selector lever. I probably shouldve of been pissed off but I wasn't. I was actually happy that it happened there where I had help instead of by myself back at the garage loading the car on a busy street. Theres no way I could've pushed it back up the alley to the garage by myself. Im also glad it didn't happen at the track in 2 weeks otherwise we would've wasted 10 hours of driving round trip with a 10 month old and 2 year old which any of you with toddlers know what that's like lol. Not mention wasted track fees and hotel stay.
Car should be ready this week but in light of the unexpected situation Im gonna skip the first event to save some money. Its also cutting it close time wise, I still have to bleed the brakes again, add the roll bar padding and now Im losing about a week with the car. So Ill be patient and sign up for the april event which is at Summit Point and is only 60 miles away.
That is weird to see those break, worst I've had is the shifter base pulled out of the rubber bushings and I punched the dashboard, lol. Decided at that point I needed to work on shifting more softly.
It's always disappointing to get out to the track and not even get a lap in before something breaks. Make it just far enough for nothing to be refundable but not far enough to make it worth it. Which track where you gonna run at?
Virginia International Raceway its right on the border of N.C.
Heres my monthly update. After the shop fixed the shifter cable they took it out for a test drive and noticed the boost was acting weird. They put it on the dyno to see what was going on and after some testing they found the problem. The wastegate, the o-ring on the valve under the under the diaphragm had way to much play. We couldn't find a replacement anywhere and unfortunately the wastegate I have is a 1st gen MV-S so it made it even harder to find. Tial doesn't list a customer service number on there website so they had to email instead but they didn't respond for 3 days.
At this point the car has been there for like 3 weeks and my time frame to the next event and its slowly creeping up so Im like fuck it, get me a new one and be done with it. So after all that is all squared away it goes on the dyno makes 400hp/400tq but now I have a another problem. The turbo is smoking, so I pick up the car and get to the garage and start pulling the turbo the next day. Of course I ran into some problems like snapping 2 ARP bolts that fasten the turbo adapter plate to the exhaust manifold. If that's not enough as one of them snapped my hand flew into the cam sensor and snapped that too. Luckily I had another one.
Turns out the bearings where on there way out due to hot shut downs, lesson learned. So now Im just waiting for my turbo to show up that was shipped out Wednesday morning and Im also waiting on the new adapter plate. Im trying to make this next event which is one week but its not looking so good. I still have work to do but no parts and very little time.
nuff talk
how it sits now
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps688f7ca2.jpg
parts that should be in the car
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psb5e8a4e2.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psa93ef099.jpg
off to Precision
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps3a8aa040.jpg
heres the adapter plate with the 2 ARP bolts snapped off, one clean off and the other showing about 2''s of bolt.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps081a0f06.jpg
I heated it up to almost 500 degrees (I have a laser thermometer) and used my pipe wrench from work to twist out the bolt that had 2''s sticking out.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psec2e210f.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse035c9e6.jpg
drilled hole for easy-out
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps850d1733.jpg
heated it up again to almost 500 degrees and snapped it.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps04cc739f.jpg
Snapped shifter cable
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps6e98803b.jpg
and did I mention the cotter pin on the driver side axle snapped on the dyno, Im still trying to figure out this one
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psf1ac890f.jpg
but on the bright side I got the roll bar padding done, even that was a pain in the ass
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps651e5ae3.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps3e6bb03c.jpg
I've seen a lot of bad luck with Precision turbos. Decent numbers are far as output but terrible longevity whether they're on street machines or race.
I can't believe you snapped an axle on the dyno. What exactly was happening when it broke? Spool up? Sustained torque? I've only seen one snap under a driveline load spike ei shifting or launch but never from just raw torque.
dude! you're snapping to much crap. hurry up and get it fixed I wanna see this on the road! :)
Lol i know this is getting to be too much, and no I didnt snap an axle lol dont even jinx me. The axle nut moved on the dyno and snapped the cotter pin. Looks like Ill be putting paint marks on the axle end and nut to check for movement. I do that with my adjustable cam bolts too.
this thing is registered and road worthy?