MKO's AWD/Turbo/DOHC/5 Speed Project

Cool, I'm glad it fit. I hope you made sure it is square to the body before welding. I never actually pulled that bracket out of the donor car. When it looked like it wouldn't fit I didn't bother. I also wanted to keep the donor together because I thought I'd be selling it more or less whole (which didn't happen). Can you get pictures of it and where the shaft and bearing end up at? I'd suggest just tack welding everything until it is all in place. You really want to keep the shaft as straight as possible.

In the GSX the front hanger is directly under the brace where the front seats bolt down. It is a well reinforced part of the car. I put it there and would suggest you do the same. You'll need to do a fair amount of trimming to make it work as the two tunnels are VERY different at that point. After you get that right then worry about the shaft lengths. If you fudge just a little bit to keep one section the same length it is probably fine but I wouldn't go too far from that area. Oh, and pull out your carpet so it doesn't catch fire :)

Cool man, thanks for the info.

Either way, lets say I want to prevent having wobbling transfered back to the transfer case which is better to extend - front or middle drive shaft section?

Probably the middle, which is also the most likely candidate to need lengthening. That is the section of the body that likely had to change to make the car shorter for the 2g DSM vs a Galant.

I pulled the front and rear driveline mounts from a gsx they fit fine I think I just had to grind or cut a little for a perfect fit. The front one is just under the ebrake handle.

i need the side engine mounts to drop an engine with the trans mounted to it, so i can see where exactly the front drive shaft carrier sits and also to measure the how much extending it will need. I might take a trip to Skrap's house and steal his mounts

Most Chrysler vehicles are loaded with crap they dont need and I gladly take it off.

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...4/HPIM1541.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...4/HPIM1540.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...4/HPIM1539.jpg

Can you clip a few mm out of the rings and draw them together to get a perfect fit? I'm thinking those would look even sweeter once your cluster is lit up.

They came off 4 door stratus and it was a mid 2000 model.

Yeah, that was what i did. I grinded off the part where the small rings touch the big ones to have that flush look.

What are you doing with the cluster? Youre going to fit it to the galant Im assuming? If so why & how?

Nah man, thats the Galant cluster, its just the chrome rings that came off a Chrysler.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mko

Nah man, thats the Galant cluster, its just the chrome rings that came off a Chrysler.

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Ah Hah! **Light Bulb**
LOL! Looks good

I bought some goodies today. I was going back and forth between SS hard line or SS braided line . I finally decided on teflon braided lines for the fuel supply and fuel return lines. I got 20ft of 3/16 SS coil for the brake lines and Im gonna flare it myself.

^ Cool. I know I don't have to say it, but.... as a reminder check and re-check and then check again for leaks. Lol!

Practice the flaring a few times until you know without a doubt you can get it right every time. That way you don't waste any and it comes out perfect.
Bottom line is saving a few bucks is not worth driving a car without piece of mind. Any shortcuts when it comes to brakes will haunt you every moment you drive the car... and usually when you forget about it is when something goes horribly wrong.
I'm sure you will get it done primo, its just one of those things where there is no room for compromise(If you like living)

Here are the pics:

The rear carrier

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1551.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1552.jpg

The front carrier - its pretty trimmed so it fits there.

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1550.jpg

What do you think - its about 6'' short?

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1553.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1554.jpg

My quick trans installation

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1555.jpg

I haven't had the driveline built yet but was planning on having a new front one done at a 4x4/drive line shop about $250. If you add the difference in wheelbase between 2g and 7g (6.2 or something like that) it should be spot on perfect.

it comes to 4.9''

Alternator went on me again. Its the second time this month. I got remanufactured one for 98 Galant and did the conversion to OBD 1.

How exactly did you convert the alternator?

What do you end up doing about the drive-line being short?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w/oarctic7g

How exactly did you convert the alternator?

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The OBD2 alternator has 4 wires - red, white, green and blue and the OBD1 alternator has two wires - red and white. I capped off the green and blue and the red goes to red and white to white.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oakrdrs187

What do you end up doing about the drive-line being short?

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Installed the spare 4g63 engine I have.

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1559.jpg

Eclipsh suggested that I cut the drive shaft in the middle, so there it goes

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1558.jpg

I used some exhaust pipes and t-bolt clamps to get the shaft to its correct length. I'll be taking it to the drive shaft shop this coming week

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1560.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1566.jpg

Full drive shaft installed.

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1561.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1562.jpg


This is the piece that can be fit in the Galant's tunnel. I had to fab up a housing for it to make it beefier.

from this

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1550.jpg

to this

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1565.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1564.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1563.jpg

Filling the gaps

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1567.jpg


Carrier bearing tacked in its place.

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1568.jpg

Nice progress. Did you allow for some in/out play at the transfer case? The drive shaft shop wanted the yoke something like 3/4" away from completely seating down in the t-case.

From what ive read, i understand that the carriers do that for the drive shaft. Especially the rear one and it has that cone shape to move in and out.

You're correct BTW. Thanks for mentioning it.

Since I like where the carrier sits and Its already tacked in place, Im gonna have to tell the shop to shorten the front piece of the drive shaft 3/4''

Glad I could help :)

Nice work MKO !!!!
Is it possible for you to measure your driveshaft from T-CASE to Diff ?

I just got my finishing pieces to drop my motor in and will be tackling this next.

Also did you eliminate a carrier bearing? from the pics it looks like there is only one located towards the rear of the car?

Look at the last two pages - its all about the carriers and the driveshaft

Been sick for a couple of days and havent been at the garage.

I did the roll stoppers with liquid urethane and its not the Windo weld urethane or any home depot roofing urethane, but the very same that the motor mount inserts are made of.

I had the partial insert in the rear one and full race welded front one which actually was kind of harsh.

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1571.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1570.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...p/HPIM1569.jpg

If anyone cares, this is what I used:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...&PARTNER=gbase

Everything is coming off tomorrow and I'll be coating the undercarriage.

Just a quick few pictures of all brackets, bolts, nuts and washers being coated.

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...4/HPIM1575.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...4/HPIM1573.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...4/HPIM1574.jpg

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/...4/HPIM1572.jpg

For all 7g and 8g owners - there's a factory upgrade for the rear trailing arms from 2g Diamante. The pipe of the control arm is probably twice as big as any other 7g or 8g trailing arm.

I'll have pictures soon.

Hell yea! Glad you're out there finding things that'll work on our cars, first the Intrepid end links and now this!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mko

For all 7g and 8g owners - there's a factory upgrade for the rear trailing arms from 2g Diamante. The pipe of the control arm is probably twice as big as any other 7g or 8g trailing arm.

I'll have pictures soon.

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you mean the thing that most of us snap at some point?

I am going to print this entire thread and eclipsh's and all the tutorials

Make me a 7G textbook

I respect y'all cars and y'all as creators

Keep it up

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mko

For all 7g and 8g owners - there's a factory upgrade for the rear trailing arms from 2g Diamante. The pipe of the control arm is probably twice as big as any other 7g or 8g trailing arm.

I'll have pictures soon.

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More info on this plz:orangeshy::orangeshy:

The 2G Diamante suspension is pretty much the basics for the 8G suspension...actually the frame is more like the basics for the 8G, just reduce in size, as the 2G was release in 1997 while the 8G in 1999. Just beefier parts because the Diamante is consider a full size sedan.

The two little rust spots on each side of the rear fender well (pics are a couple of pages back) turned out to be 1/3 of the rocker panel rust spots. It pretty much took me the whole day to clean that up. I had a nice little pile of rust debris from both sides.

Now I need sheet metal and start welding it back together.

Got me an Evo 8 rear hub, so thats been taken care of. I just removed both rear brake lines, so tomorrow I'll have to run and bend the new lines. After that the rear end is to be put together, so I can drop the front subframe and work on that. Unfortunately, there are no polyurethane bushings for the front subframe (only solid aluminum and they are pricey), so I might just use that stock ones.

Good work bro. Keep it up.

Nice work.. Quick question for ya.. I found a 97 sonata in the JY and removed the mdp Sensor/bracket. I remember you pointing out that this sensor could be used when running a 1g Eclipse intake manifold. was wondering where you attached this sensor too and if it works without any cell?

wherever you want bro. You can extend the harness ans have it on the firewall, or tuck in under the intake manifold....you know what i mean...

Yep Iam attaching it to the manifold via bracket, but don't know what boost/vacum source Iam going to tap. Was wondering if I could tap it into the same source fort the boost guage.