did you buy it?!?!?! Im working on my next system... a few L5's :)
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did you buy it?!?!?! Im working on my next system... a few L5's :)
They were sold out of the MTX amp, and I coulnd't find the damn thing anywhere, so I found the Alpine for 152$ shipped, went with that.
alpine is solid, you will like it.
Gets here today, so I'll let you guys know how it sounds.
Alright, got it installed. It doesn't hit nearly as hard as it did before, and it will be fine, then all of a sudden cut out, then back in....
maybe I should redo my half ass wiring job?
The gain, crossover, and the other knob, I forgot what it was, where should those be adjusted to? Or is it setup dependent? I have stock speakers all around.
Probably gain, crossover and bass boost. Yes they should be tuned to what sounds best without distortion.
Set your crossover somewhere between 80 and 140khz.
The gain is just a way to compensate for the difference between the volume of the speakers and the volume of the subs.
The bass boost is there for just a little more kick in the lower end, but is usually abused by most people. I have mine all the way down. That way it sounds the way it is supposed to versus being all boomy.
Try not to turn the gain up any more then 3/4 the way. It helps save the amp from working to hard and frying. It's works the amp hard kind of like the bass boost does. Thats if you turn the gain fully up.
X2. If you want to throw in some extra money...bridge the subs and go for a mono amp..(class D) ..I dont think any issue will come of that. Even if you dont, you are getting a bigger amp..which means you may want to look at getting a Cap. maybe 1F. Tsunami makes great Caps for low prices...i never had an issue with them at all.
I got the alpine Mono block D class amp, 500 watt RMS 1000 peak for the subs mentioned earlier
dude you will be fine with that amp, it slams. are you upgrading your wires?
Well think I'm gong to redo all of the wiring, since the bass is barely loud at the moment, and sometimes cuts out, which leads me to believe the wiring is bad or half assed
u should be able to handle 8 Gage wire with that amp but i would go 4 Gage if u dont know check ur wire it will say it right on it
-Hot Wire 8 Gage But 4 will be better
-Ground Wire 8 Gage but 4 will be better now if u whent with 4 Gage hot then u have to run 4 Gage ground
-12 Gage speaker wire from Amp to Sub Box to Subs Make sure u wire them correctly
- Remote Wire from head unit to Amp
-and u will need a Cap at least a 2 farat or greater
-Once all check outs then fine tune ur amp and Head unit
-one more time Tune ur amp and haed unit
Good Luck
jimmy is right, spend the extra few bucks on 4 gauge. You can use 8 gauge but its not worth it.
I don't know if the 2 farad capacitor is necessary. I have a 1000 watt nominal power amp and my lights only dim when I have it maxed out.
I am running 5 gauge wire front to back and am on stock charging system with a regular battery. Nothing special.
4 gauge wire is a good size wire for most systems. KnuKonceptz.com is a nice cheap place to get the kit and is good wire. I think 30 or so for a 4gauge 2 channel kit. Also if you have any doubts about your wiring refer to this page. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp and just plug in your info. Good Luck. BTW a lot of people dont use caps anymore just extra batteries. But if thats not a option then 1fared cap + will work.
No it wont im running the older version of that amp and mine is 550 rms with brand new battery and stock charging system with a 1.5 farat cap and i still dim
and my setup is just like i said above 4 gage ground and hot 12 gage from amp 2 subs monster remote wire and 12 Gage RCA and only running 1 amp to subs no amp for the inside trust me get a 2 or + farat
Nah, it is 5 gauge. It is scosche bullshit. I got it for free though. Metal is metal, so why not use it?
And I guess it just depends on the car and the kind of system.
I have 1400 watts total between both of my amps and I push them all the way and they will dim my lights only when hitting mid/low notes. I usually don't have and issue, and I took the capacitor out because it just got in the way all the time and I worried about shorting it out...
never heard of 5 gauge wires...
Well that is what it says on the wire. I can take pictures later for you guys if it needs proof. haha
I can't now because my car is with my mom in dallas. She is working the overnight shift at the hospital... =\
Would this work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-O9-PYLE-3-2-...3A1%7C294%3A50
Do you guys have other suggestions?
thats crap
That's why I said "do you guys have another suggestion?"
lol, I don't know much about brands of caps, was hoping u'd help me since u suggested it :)
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik...NHS9BBRF4ARTJ8
power accoustic its a pretty dependable brand and for the same price u get a 5 farat
Alright few questions:
Is a 2 farad enough, or should I get a 3?
Is boss a decent brand, or would a power acoustik 3 farad serve me well?
i have (well its in my friends tc) the power acoustik 2 farad capacitor thats powering his kicker 750.1 and his L7 so im sure that a 2 farad will be PLENTY for you alpine (if im right its the 500 watts RMS at 2 ohm correct?) 1 should be enough, 2 will be plenty, 3 wont do any more than 2 because you dont have that much power.
the cap i posted is good and wont hurt one bit if u get a higher farat rating
once all wires are checked and correct u have to adjust ur amp and head unit
http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/v...ic/mrpm500.jpg
thats what im talking about, the 3 knobs you can turn. Move the gain and the bass eq to where you want it. I suggest running both at half for a day or two and then turn them up a little more if you want more power.
So it's about that time of year when I should have a bit of cash again, so I want to do this right.
Here is the cap you suggested:
http://www.caraudiomix.com/POWER_ACO...r_p/pcx-5f.htm (the one on amazon says it takes 3 weeks to ship...)
and on the same site it has a 4 guage wiring kit... for 5$?
http://www.caraudiomix.com/Q_Power_4...p/4ga2000w.htm
It's an awesome deal, but it makes me paranoid... why so cheap?
I figure metal is metal, but there's gotta be a reason why people buy higher costing wiring kits, right?
I believe the reason its so cheap is because its copper plated aluminum wiring, Copper is high dollar right now so i highly doubt that is good wiring, i'd suggest sticking with a name brand wiring kit
i guess it looks decent, i bought a fosgate one off amazon for like 25 shipped and all. i would just check around and see when a good deal arrives
Alright, so is is what I'm going with:
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4
http://cgi.ebay.com/2008-POWER-ACOUS...3A1%7C294%3A50
Everyone agrees that's good?
Also, what do you guys reccomend for 6x9 and 6.5 speakers, for front and rears?
I'm hoping to send 130 or less for fronts and rears, so somewhere around 75 for a pair of fronts and 75 for a pair of rears (give or take a few dollars)
thanks everyone :)
alpine or infinity or focal for door speakers but it will be hard to spend 130 on them...
I've been checking out sonicelectronix,
Should I go with 3way, or 2way? I know at least 2 way, because I really don't need bass much, I have subs for that, so I figured 2 or 3 way speakers will give me much more variety in sound.
showtime says infinity or alpine.
Suggestions?
How about these? Good reviews, have some power, name brand, and are withing my price range.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...low-Mount.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...nce+9622i.html
2 way and go with those infinity you just showed us. They will sound amazing.