Yes, as long as the V6 car had the single piston front calipers.
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Yes, as long as the V6 car had the single piston front calipers.
Not for the 2003. Aftermarket(random check) all show the same part number. Mitsubishi shows the same price, so I'm guessing OEM is the same as well. These are for the fronts, if I remember right, the 4cyl doesn't come from the factory with rear rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by tony2face
I don't think the 2003 ever came with dual pistons, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
Correct. only 1999 and early 2000 V6 came with dual pistonQuote:
Originally Posted by tamim13
Thanks for the info guys. I was searching online and it seemed to be the same size, but i posted here to be sure.
Going to order some now.
I was talking about the entire Generation. He doesn't have to limit the rotors to a 2003 model year car.
How hard is it to take out the abs sensors from the knuckle? I know you have to remove the little bolt, but aren't the sensors magnetic?
Also I'm changing out my control arms, already done with passenger side but on the drivers side I can't get the ball joint to go into the knuckle, anybody have any tips?
I've broken abs sensors everytime I tried taking them out.
As far as your second issue goes, I just replaced my ball joints last week and all I can suggest is trying to pull the knuckle outwards to get a straight angle for the ball joint to slide into. Hopefully that helps.
The knuckle has cut in it. Last time this happened I pryed it open a hair, plus a little wd40. Went right in.
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Did that on the passengers side but I didn't think it worked cause I didn't see it move that's why I didn't try it on the drivers side, but I guess it does work.
How come the 6g72 from the eclipse is rated at 205 hp while the 6g72 from the galant only makes 195. Just wondering since it has the same compression ratio as well being the exact same engine. Im talking about the gt model and not the gts which has the butterfly valves. It just seems odd that there would be a 10 hp difference on the exact same engine. Is it detuned in the galant? The eclipse also gets supposedly the same gas mileage as well.
1. What's the best way to store an engine "outside", it will be in a small shed. If my friend is correct there is a 6g75 galant that was ran into the back of at the junkyard.
2. Should I just pass up the engine and buy one in 3 years when my pockets are ready to do the engine build/swap?
^ That's a tough one (the last question).
I would either
A) Buy the engine, and over said 3 year period get her built with spare/project money
or
B) Save the money in case something pups up (knock on wood, but you never know), and pick up the engine and build it in one go when funds are right after the 3 years.
I would personally save the money and engine for a later date; but my financial situation is fubar atm, so that's just me.
buy it, coat it with oil, wrap it in a giant huge space bag, vacuum pack that sucker. as long as you have oil and most of the air out, you should get not rust if the cylinder walls and what not are correctly coatedQuote:
Originally Posted by Black8GV6
thanks for the replys, if I have time tomorrow I'll swing by the yard to see if the engine is there and to see the price of it. I have never seen a 6g75 in any of the junkyards I go to so this will be like seeing a unicorn if it's there and I'll probably get it.
went to the junkyard today, no 6g75, my friend is a douche. Anyways the good news is if I find an engine the price is $275 + $75 core charge, great price if I find one. Also I put back on my stock intake manifold and my P0300 went away and the throttle repsonse is normal, YAY!
If you were using the 72 tb on the 74 manifold, it causes the egr valve to stay open. That creates the P0300 because it'll misfire in the low rpms.
Didn't really see any topics on the issue, rather post here than make a new thread.
Anyway, the Galant doesn't see much use these days. I changed the oil in it back in November, it's only seen 1000 miles since. I had to jump start it a few days ago since it sat for most of the wonderfully cold weather LI (and everybody else) has been getting. Went over the fluids after I got it running and battery charged, oil still looks good (at the full line and a dark goldish color) power steering, coolant all look good, but the trans fluid looks rather dirty. It's not low, but definitely could use a change. Thing is, it doesn't have shifting issues. No slipping or hesitating.
Still, I planned on changing it. To really make sure to get it fresh, I wanted to drain and refill 3 times. Basically, drain out the fluid and refill, drive for about two weeks and repeat this another two times. Anybody else done this? I'm planning on doing the same with the Accord, it's where I got the idea from (accord forums)
Still need to find out the fill capacity of the auto, I'm only finding the entire capacity of the trans, not the drain and refill capacity. Heh, funny I work at a Mitsu dealership now and I'm still asking here for that info. Still, 8th gen Galants rarely come to this dealership as most don't "need" to come here for maintenance and repairs. Still, I'm hunting down the refill capacity while I'm not busy.
Here are the instructions from the Mitsubishi service manual -
1. Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which
connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the
radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the
discharge.
CAUTION
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is
started. If the A/T fluid has all drained out before then, the
engine should be stopped at that point.
Discharge volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
2. Start the engine and let the A/T fluid drain out.
Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling
3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case
to drain the A/T fluid.
Discharge volume: Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts)
4. Install the drain plug with a new gasket, and tighten it to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque: 32 2 N⋅m (24 1 ft-lb)
CAUTION
Stop pouring if the full volume of A/T fluid cannot be
poured in.
5. Pour new A/T fluid in through the oil filter tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts)
6. Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the
contaminated A/T fluid)
7. Pour the new A/T fluid in through the oil filler tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts)
NOTE: Check the A/T fluid for contamination or burnt smell.
If fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6 and 7
before proceeding to Step 8.
8. Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1
above, and firmly replace the dipstick.
9. Start the engine and run it at idle for one to two minutes.
10.Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move
it to the "N" position.
11.Check that the A/T fluid level is at the "COLD" mark on the
dipstick. If the level is lower than this, pour in more A/T fluid.
12.Drive the vehicle until the A/T fluid temperature rises to the
normal temperature [70 −80C (158 −176F)], and then
check the A/T fluid level again. The A/T fluid level must be at
the "HOT" mark.
NOTE: The A/T fluid temperature is measured with scan tool
(MUT-II).
NOTE: The "COLD" level is for reference only; the "HOT"
level should be regarded as the standard level.
NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the A/T fluid
reaches its normal operating temperature [70 −80C (158 -
176F)], check the A/T fluid level by referring to the left
diagram.
13.Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.
If you want pictures etc, there was a tutorial created by pinoyesv6 a while ago -
http://web.archive.org/web/200601141...s/TrannyFlush/
More information on the forum -
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...r-tranny-Fluid
Awesome, thanks for that. Now I just need to wait until it's not freakin' 35*F outside.