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On the talks of Mishimoto or any aluminum radiator, very few, if not less than I can count on one hand actually support the need for anything other than a stock replacement. They begin to fall into what I consider the Brembo brake upgrade to be, which is nothing more than a cosmetic enhancement in 99% of circumstances.
Great info but it looks like these are for the v6 im i4Quote:
Originally Posted by demond0d5
wouldn't everything be the same? if not then go search up isaurio's thread...I know he has one and Im pretty sure he is 4cyl
Will do some more research. Thanks
Hey look into zap radiators. I looked on ebay real quick at aluminum rads for evos, and these looked better than most of the no name brands just in the thumbnail pic alone. So then I googled them. Seems like they've gotten good reviews in the honda community. Even looked at amazon. And I've seen on two different forums they're supposedly made by mishimoto. And on ebay their evo rad is cheaper than an actual mishimoto rad.
Might be worth looking at
is that to say that the "upgrade" doesn't actually lower the temps during normal operation?Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
or are you saying that the oem one does well enough to keep you at a safe temperature and you just don't "need" anything better...it may lower temps but you aren't gaining any benefit from it
or that the "better" aluminum ones run too cold and are more harmful than good? because, and please correct me if im wrong but, I was under the impression that you wanted to run as cool as you could...I know there is "too cold" but a radiator wouldn't get us that low...right?
Awesome!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 8thLS6
Well, an engine has something in it called a thermostat. It holds engine temperature to the designated temperature, then it opens allowing coolant to circulate between the engine and radiator. When it has cooled enough for the wax pellet in the thermostat to close, it repeats the cycle again.Quote:
Originally Posted by demond0d5
That being said, no matter what the radiator is doing, you're going to get a cool charge of coolant regardless of the radiator if it is in good operating condition, and the thermostat will control the same temperature.
The only need for one really comes into play when engine bay temps are much higher than any stock engine in our cars can call for, or when extreme track abuse is experienced. I have been on the road course for sometimes 35-40 minutes per session and have failed to see engine temperatures come out of normal operating range with my stock replacement type radiator on 90-100 degree days. Granted, I do new coolant in the car each year, but based on my experience, a stock replacement radiator is capable of much more than 95% of our cars can throw at it (including mine up to my recent tear-down)
That's good to know, I didn't exactly how the cooling system works but yeah, I see what you're saying...unless you're keeping that sucker open all the time it's not gonna be a difference...
Cooler coolant means cooler engine when it opens up but it closes back off and will still stay closed until you hit that high end so you're not really gaining anything...right?
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He is again correct. Was thinking o e replacements to begin with not having any engine mods. Wouldn't make it any better for me but like he said it would be more cosmetic than function, now he also mentioned the brembos also being cosmetic but to me it would be both cosmetic and functional. Im more into style than power,just my nature. Yea im strange, most people are into power and ugly. Lol. Dont get me wrong, evo swap has crossed my mind, but always backed out because its not my style. May be strange to say but proud to say the Wife is the speed demon of the family having a 400hp super charged Jack roush edition mustang and having her own GSXR1000.. Im the low and slow guy of the family:-).
Have some work to do.
Upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hoses, clamps,t/stat, pcv valve, and of course radiator and cap. Never ends..p.s. went with o.e. replacement.
[IMG]http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...psjnuoh3y6.jpg[/IMG]
And to keep with the topic, tonight I spent another $200 in piping, flanges, and mandrel bends. On the bright side, I now have everything I need for the turbo kit, minus the intercooler.
Nice, where's the pics??!!
I hear ya loud and clear on this! I'm the same way...more or less...which is why im just now getting into performance mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by coconut
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
Seconded! I wanna see what you and Justin have been up to out there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by coconut
Update of my own: finally got EvoScan up and working properly, going to applebees tomorrow night with the lady so taking a back road or two to get a full pull log...last night I was able to get readings just sitting in the parking lot with a few revs. still working out what all I want to log but got a pretty decent handle on it now. gotta find out how to hook up the lc-1 but im working the front desk for a few hours tonight so thatll come in time. Still looking into ecu swaps so I can get ecuflash to work (wont read my rom) but I have until may to get that done =D
It'll be a few days for pictures. The BOV should arrive today, and the bulk item order will be at my door early next week.
^aluminum piping? what size?
Speaking of piping...which do y'all prefer of you're getting a custom setup; aluminum or stainless?
I know ss is heavier but it's easier to weld and work with isn't it? So which would be cheaper
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I told him to get the aluminum radiator so he could be one step closer to a dohc turbo set up xD
Hotside is mild steel, and charge piping is stainless for my setup.
Washed the G. Also, if anyone is curious the lip I have is a modified 94-97 Integra Wings West Lip
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7477/...5447661c_b.jpg
Looks incredibly clean!
Agree.
Finally got around to installing LED turn signals today since the resistors came in late yesterday afternoon.
http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/...pssnu5boht.jpg
http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/...psy7lyvpe5.jpg
http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/...psmjfewtlt.jpg
Not the best choice of connector, I would of cut , solder, heat shrink. But I like the lights.
My damn soldering iron burnt up on my last project, otherwise I would have. I guess I will have to go invest in another one.
Cut, strip, twist together, tape up..."western union" technique...way better than those connectors...but hey, if it works =D (for now)
Fun fact of the day:
The NASA spec way to splice wires is to strip the ends, solder each wire individually, then hold them together side by side WITHOUT twisting them, then melt the solder together. That creates a better flowing and stronger bond than a single run of wire!
It is also a massive pain in the dick and uses a crap load of time
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lol if these connectors fail (wouldn't be surprised) I will hopefully have a soldering iron by then.
At least you are realistic! So many people don't fit that trait
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SMH. That is the ONLY correct way to solder. Its called "tinning".Quote:
Originally Posted by demond0d5
It wouldn't be the first time I had to redo something little like that cause I screwed up the first time. At least by the second time I know what I'm doing lol
"tinning" is simply coating the material...not actually joining it. Joining it is called soldering. Hence why you "tin" the soldering iron prior to working or "tin" the wires before joining. Tinning allows the heat to transfer easier from the iron as the material is already at a melting temperature and has a lower specific heat index than the material (copper, silver, etc) being soldered together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
The more common method of soldering is to overlap the wires parallel to each other, twist them together, and then solder. This is much easier because you only have to hold 3 things at once, the iron, the solder, and the conjoined wires (if unsupported), as opposed to the other method requiring you to hold both wires next to each other, the iron, and the solder (if you choose to strengthen the bond further)
I wish my car was worthy of some aerospace methods
Today should be a good day...unless I find out I have to replace a fuck ton of other suspension parts
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...6cd549e8e2.jpg
If you have AN fittings, you're using aerospace methods. I could go on and on lol You're GOOD!Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
Theres always more to replace and improvements. Lol. Have funQuote:
Originally Posted by juicejax
Most likely that will be the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by juicejax
Ball joints and sway links. Maybe control arm bushings. Usually the case with a 12+ year old car.
Could I just get the springs and struts installed...and do the other parts the next day...I'm dropping my car off at a shop in the morning... $300 including alignment...I know I'll need the camber kit for the rear as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by oakrdrs187
You can go back to that stuff later, im just saying, most 8Gs on the road, they need that sort of work done, most people dont bother since the car can still get from A to B.
Oh I know all this lol. I guess smh didnt come across right. Nodding my head agreeing with you was what I was trying to do. Eh oh wellQuote:
Originally Posted by demond0d5
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I want your head lights technOnut xD