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Thanks Jigz, means a lot. A lot of people ask me why I did it the way I did, and to be honest, I just went with the flow. So what I learned is always ALWAYS set a budget.
I figured that so I ended up redoing it, and I clocked it about 35 degrees to let moisture run out.
I found a mom and pop gas station that tests E85 before you fuel it up in town, so Ill be hitting them up sometime next week and then hopefully, next weekend the fun BEGINS. tscompusa is doing the tuning.
Yes budget is crucial. I have a hard time because I just want to drive it but the budget is the most important part.
It is.
So I was able to finish the trunk today. Fuse box and battery are underneath, and I have an access panel to removed for fuses, charging battery ect.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps0e8be7ab.jpg
Also adjusted the intercooler piping so it wasn't hitting the catch can. A quick trim of the coupler fixed that issue.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psb382b2b6.jpg
and the placement of the BOV with the hood closed
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps8028b4da.jpg
I attempted a boost leak test today, turns out I forgot I don't have me check valve for the brake booster yet, but I did find that I have a pin hole leak in one of my charge pipe welds on the turbo to intercooler side. is a pin hole leak acceptable? if not Ill just weld it up I guess.
Put a spot weld on that, you want no leaks.
The amount of detail under the hood is sick, I like how you did some of the strut bar in purple and the brake booster also
I really enjoyed painting the strut bar like that. I felt artistic. alot of masking though. So I'm still waiting for Tom to send me the tune. He's been kinda busy on evom.net, so Hopefully soon I shall start her. also I'm going to put this here
http://www.frsport.com/Wheels-CR-Ult...FVRk7AodwE8AUg
and some info
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps6dcaf609.png
Good luck fitting those lol. Gonna need to do a shit ton of camber with tiny tires to even potentially get close.
I won't be running tires LMAO! jk for reals though. I will make these fit, but I'm not ruining anymore of my winter secret project with the g YET.
I imagine it will involve flares/wide body haha. Car is coming along!
ok lets talk offset and tire size. I currently have mb battles with a 18x8 +30 running a 235/40 nitto invo
I am looking at upgrade to 18x10.5 +15 and running a 275/35/18 nitto invo
now, compared to my current wheels if I run the 10.5 +15 I will move the rim lip 17mm closer to the knuckle and 47 mm extra out towards the fender. The front I have plenty of room from the strut side, and the fender side doesn't bother me because I will be fixing that issue with a fender mod, scrub during full lock is the thing that is bothering me right now
for the rear, I currently have about 1 inch clearance between the knuckle and the RIM FACE. the tire i have about maybe a finger width.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psc9b69a6c.jpg
so I would have to run either a 10mm or 15mm spacer to clear the knuckle side, with the 18x10.5 +15. The problem I have is I want to run a 275/35/18 tire because I don't want the stretch look at all, I like some meat of the rims sides so to speak. this would be as far of a stretch I would like to go like this. but this is 17x10+18, 20mm spacer in the rear. w/ 255/40 hankook RS-3s
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...92165611_n.jpg
So for the wheel and tire gurus, what are the options? :)
I run a 17x9 +24 and I rub at full lock. With a 225/45/17 Bridgestone potenza re070 which is more of a 235/45. Also rubs the fender on hard corners. That's on -2.8 camber I would imagine the fender would cut the tire and rub a little earlier than full lock at 0/-1 camber.
ok that gives me an idea then, I might be cutting the apron out and redoing the clearance issues then.
I currently run a 255/40/17 hankook RS3 which run wider than your average tire on a 17x8.5 +30. I have no rubbing issues whatsoever even at full lock after doing some massaging with a 5 pound sledge. I feel like your biggest concern is going to be the outside of the fenders especially in the rear where you might have to go all plasma cutter on the QP and do some sort of large flare. A lot of this will depend on what sort of tire you go with and what sort of ride height and camber numbers you have. the front fenders can be spaced out with relative ease, mine are spaced out about a 1/4 inch. Hope this helps a little
^Thats what ive been reading lol, how much wider would you say? 10mm more? lol@ 5 pound sledge. Yeah the fenders are going to be a problem. But I got nothing to do anymore so Ill enjoy thinking how I'm going to do this.265 or 275 tire for sure, low ride height (2 fingers between fenders) and stock camber (ok maybe -2 max on the front and rear) I know this will be alot of work, but I think it will be totally worth it. Also going to make sure that if I do do this, that I will not rub on fast cornering. But I have to make it clean, super clean. I don't want no ugly ass g lol
10mm @ least compared to an all season of the same "size" if not more. I dont see why you would want to stick with stock camber, if you want the car to be a handle well I would recommend running at least 2.5 degress up front and running around 1.8 in the rear. THe more front camber you can dial in the better and thus increase your rear camber accordingly. You have a front heavy AWD car with a Mac strut front suspension so the more camber up front (to a reasonable degree the better). I assume the car wont be a daily driver and contrary to popular belief big camber numbers really dont destory tires, its toe that eats through them. I daily drive my car 80+ miles a day with 3 degrees of camber up front and there is no uneven wear. I would honstly stick with a 255 RS3 if youre going to run a high performance summer tire or perhaps a BFG rival which also runs wide in a similar fashion. The rear is going to take some serious work to fit the setup you want though. My question is why? Im not trying to knock your idea Im just asking what is the puprose I guess. I know that your car will make big power with the setup you have but I know guys with evos who run a good summer tire on a 17/18 x8-9.5 size wheel who easily put down the power. To put it in perspective my car makes essentially 300/300 whp/wtq. My RS3s have little issue coping with this power once they are up to temperatures. You have the benefit of AWD. If I were in your situation would find a wheel with an offset that allows for good clearance for brakes/fenders/arms/knuckles and then pick a tire size and dial in the rest with ride height and camber. You might also look at your spring rates and adjust those accordingly as well due to the fact that with the shift in weight distribution and the addition of weight to the car youll want a stiffer spring setup all around. I would suggest running a staggered rate with the rear slightly higher than the front because the spring rate at the spring is not the same as the spring rate at the wheel, this is a popular setup in the on lancer evolutions and it has worked well for me on my car with the benefits of a more balanced car and the stiffer rear rates will help with tire to fender clearance.
Just my .02, hopefully I didnt scare you off with the novel.
After all the work you've put into everything you're really gonna neuter it by killing your suspension geometry to put heavy, oversized wheels that don't even fit? You'll spin through three gears at your power levels even with AWD with that much camber on tires that inflexible. I understand making it want to look perfect but damn dude why waste the effort making power if cut so short?
yeah your right on the camber, I think -2 would be nice in the back with no more than -3 in the front. The problem with running a 255 IMO is its not meaty enough on a 10.5 inch rim. I need to (want to really) protect the rim lip. I have read some threads on evom about 9.5 vs 10.5, and I would like more contact patch, alot more honestly. The thing that sucks for us is, we cant just do a simple roll and pull, and bumper bolt removal to run 10.5 rims that the evo guys can. I feel frustrated about that, but its a plus too, because if it requires alot of work to do it, most people won't. Thats why I want to it, I feel it would benefit me for contact patch wise at the track even though its not that much more than 9.5 inches, be original, and i would like a deep rim face. Sorry if it doesn't make sense, but i guess it doesn't have to, idk. just a thought, to prevent rubbing on our rear knuckle, we just need to make a replacement that would let us fit wide tires, but thats a lot of work, and i don't think that many people would be down to fund that. just a thought.
Contact patch won't net you anything, in fact it may very well make straightline traction worse. The 255/40R17 high performance handling tires are like hockey pucks. A stretched 18" of the same nature will be even worse, you'll spin all the time like you're on ice and you'll never get it to plant. You'll never get a front to back weight transfer launching at your power levels on something like that. It'd be great for turning but if you're anywhere under 100 miles per hour the tires will be gone when the boost kicks in.
It'd be way easier to heat up the rear knuckles and bend them back a little bit and make new rear upper control arms if the camber throw off was too far. I personally sanded mine down a bit to make more room. People say 2gb knuckles fit tires better. I was also told 255's wouldn't fit on 2ga knuckles, they would on 2gb but barely. I don't know what's true though.
245/45
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...psbf6fea1b.jpg
255/40
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...psce24a97c.jpg
Both on a +38 wheel, 2ga knuckles prior to sanding. I'm getting new wheels with a +35 and with a little sanding there is no threat of rubbing. That's a very far cry from running a 10.5 inch wheel though. You're talking a solid inch or more of interference if you're not putting a wide body kit on it and pushing the wheels way way out.
Sorry man didn't see this, I understand form/function, but I'm trying to have both. now maybe i won't be able to run a 10.5, but it doesn't stop me from getting info on it, or others advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
What do you mean like hockey pucks? I don't want a stretch tire, that stuff grosses me out, I would like to fit a 275. from the pics ive seen(yeah i know tires brand are diff) it looks about right. If I could run 285 I would.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
you make a good point on bending the knuckles though, forgot about that. I (think) have 2ga knuckles, but right now with a 235/40r18 +30, (no spacer in the back)I have 1 finger gap away from the closest part of the tire from the knuckle, but I have more than an inch with the rim lip. I did the math, I figured I need a 10mm at the min in the back to clear a 275, but won't know for sure until you try it. the problem is like you said that pushes the tire out with the spacer 57 mm. there ain't no way to flare out the 1/4 and make it look good, unless you pie cut it and fill in with metal ect. also please don't cringe at the fact that if I do run 10.5 that its going to look like shit, i'm not like that, the build of this car should prove that. I want it to be flush. not hella flush. I want people to notice, hey hes got wide rims, but stare at the rear for while, because it was executed cleanly and correctly. honestly the only way I will know how much work it will be is if i cough up the money and buy 1 rim and 1 tire and just try it.
The super low effective offset you're gonna run is gonna kill your wheel bearings too. In for results but performance wise there are infinitely better and more practical ways to do this. I feel like silver tune and I are on the same page here.
would you feel more comfortable with 9.5?
I've only read the few posts on wheel/tire sizing, but OP how much power are you planning on making?
Also, what are your goals with the car? (not Form/Function, but what sort of driving are you looking to do?)
All that's going to matter if your effective offset. 9.5, 10.5, only different will be weight. If you're fitting the same size tire on either you're going to have to run the same centerline on whatever wheel it ends up going on and to get tires that wide in back you're going to have to put it way out there which, like greddy says, not only will it be impossible to fit but it'll destroy wheels bearings and quickly too. Not to mention that you'll have to run a camber set that will ruin your camber progression which will result in the inside of the tire always supporting everything.
Have you ever tried to mount a Hankook RS3 or comparable tire? They don't flex at all, ever. No high performance handling tires do. They are like hockey pucks. It won't matter if you run a 15 inch wide tire if you're cambered in 2+ degrees you might as well have a 225 or smaller on there when it comes to contact patch because all the weight of the car whether it's turning or straight line is going to be on the inside edge and the tires will not flex enough to use the outer edge under any circumstance. An 18 inch wheel will only make all of this worse.
I would be more comfortable with something that fits and gets you a good tire that fits as well rather than something that takes an extensive amount of work to make fit. That being said, if you have a vision in mind, go for it.
As for camber settings, when cornering more camber is better to a certain degree because as your car turns the weight shifts to the outside wheel effectively giving you more contact patch on the ground, you do give up straight line traction and braking ability when you start going with massive camber numbers. Like a said, at 300 wtq I have very little issue with traction with my 255 RS3s and -3 degrees of camber up front. Im sure your car will make substantially more power but that power will also be divided up amongst 4 wheels rather than two. Just food for thought.
Silvertune, what are you talking about for camber reducing any ability to put power down?
If he wants to take a single turn at speed, he wants more than stock amounts of negative camber.
There is a balance, you fool. As an extreme example there are people with stanced cars who literally lift the outer edge of the tire off the ground. Thus shrinking their contact patch. The more rigid you tire the more easily it will stand up on the inner edge and while we aren't talking about stance level camber there is a relationship there. Tires on 18 inch wheels don't have any real sidewall to soak up aggressive camber. Yeah it's great for turning but horrible for straight line and tire longevity. 800whp is a league you guys couldn't even dream of, there is no rolling into it, no partial throttle. It hits like a ton of bricks and on anything that isn't geared towards hooking it will spin and spin and spin and spin even with AWD. I have seen too many well built cars shit themselves at the track because they had to look perfect and were handicapped by the suspension geometry.
for power looking at 800, it could be more, it could be less. I haven't decided yet. whatever 35 to 40 psi gives me on e85. goals are just to have fun with everything, be it drag, autocross, and road racing,(we don't have a track though), car shows, canyon driving ect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue8g
how much more load on the wheel bearings if the wheels I have are 8x +30? compared to a lets say a 9.5 +30 because your load would be 19mm on each side, so wouldn't if be the same load force on the wheel bearings?(thinking out loud) really I need a fomula lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
no really the only thing i've ever mounted was the nitto invos, which are about normal IMO. Thanks for clearing that up, I also wondered why some evos tires didn't flex, now I know
I see your point. dam this rear knuckle!Quote:
Originally Posted by greddy
Honstly Id go with the highest offset wheel in the width you want that will clear your knuckles.
This man speaks the troof. I ran -3 up front and though the car looked good on the drag strip and handled decent, I couldnt get a 60' faster than 2.3 secs, and I'm sure if I get the fronts to around -1.5 to -2 at the most it would hook much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
So I've been kinda quiet haha. well this is why
This is a 18x10.5+15 work emotion rim in solid works, its not done yet
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psd1a62012.jpg
and my next plan is to design this in solid works. Last weekend I took the rear end apart and measured everything in mm to get the exact distance I needed from the knuckle face-brake plate-bearing-rotor hat thickenss- then wheel.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps113b956f.jpg
I will draw up this as close as I possibly can. I would prefer to use the 3d scanner at school so Ill ask about that next semester haha. other than that not to much going on. I did notice that on the sweep back of the knuckle (where the 4r is stamped) that is as far back as I can move it. I'm trying to see how plausible it is going to be to move the sweep up and down in the cad model so bear with me haha
Minor details were finished!
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps9809e0aa.png
a 9.5+35 will clear. a 9.5+38 will hit the banana upright, so the following will clear the banana arm (just, based off inner clearance of a 9.5+35)
x10+28
x10.5+23
if you want to use a x10.5+15 then you'll have about 8mm between the lip of the wheel and that banana arm. you'd need a tyre that is straight walled, not buldgey. the 10.5+15 will also poke 32.7mm more then a 9.5+35 or about 54.8mm more then a standard evo wheel (17x8+38)
im not sure if that helps you but figured id make those figures known
top work on the solidworks model! looks perfect.
Don't you guys have a different rear suspension setup then us? I could have sworn you guys did..
Basically Ill be moving the whole banana arm up and over to the inside of the wheel well, almost (more than likely) flush with the rear strut body. Almost making it a 90 degree angle instead of this swoop design. But idk if chromoly tubing will be effective enough, or should i make a cast mold from chromoly. idk Either or its a lot of work, and i would like to analyze it all. Hard part is drawing this wicked rear knuckle lol a lot of swoops and twists, ect.
The wheel is with in spec for the bore, bolt pattern, offset, diameter, width. The design is CLOSE but not exact. this was all done looking at a picture lol
That's some crazy work. If I read this correctly, you're reengineering the suspension geometry. That's crazy dope, good luck!
World spec 8g rear is the same as USDM.
not really reengineering the geometry, i'm trying to keep it the same, just trying to wide out the banana arm if that makes sense? To comfortably fit 295 or315 idk, just throwing that ouyQuote:
Originally Posted by wetamup2k3g
I did not know that. so the rear is the same but the front is differentQuote:
Originally Posted by greddy
Oh, I thought it might need more than that. Looking at it, it probably doesn't. Still cool stuff though. And yeah IIRC the rear setup on our cars is shared with the worldspec 8G, the 7G, the 2G and the 2G diamante looked real similar also but I'm not 100% sure on that. I think MKO uses 8G rear suspension arms because they're stronger than the 7G but still fit the same.
^sorry to ruin your hopes greg lol
its still gonna be ballin and ill have fun with it
Damn your pretty nice with designing! I don't know if your familiar with it but theres a tool used to measure wheel and tire combos, Ive never used one let alone actually hold one in my hands but it seems like a pretty straight forward measuring device. Ive always been tempted to pick one up.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Percys/Percys-...61153/10002/-1
Updates?