WOW! I officially hate you now lol!
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WOW! I officially hate you now lol!
Wow. Gorgeous pics. Gorgeous car. Looks aggressive. I love it. :cool:
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You can't hate a g brother lolQuote:
Originally Posted by dronesurfboards
Thanks! I need to learn hdr shooting nowQuote:
Originally Posted by XxGiRLaNT06xX
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Wow! Those are some really beautiful photos! Cars not bad either ;), i would definitely be having a couple of those blown up and framed.
Sexy all the way around!!!!!!!...so jealous!!!!!!!!
Thanks dude
It would be cool to get an article about it online but it seems nobody cares about it lol
Never give up homie!!! Some one will see the beauty of her and hit you up. She's beautiful man. It's a shame that our cars don't get the attention they deserve, especially when us as car artist put our time in our master piece.
Oh I'm not giving up on it yet! I need to move onto phase 3! muhahahahahahaha. Then I might sell it lol. Not much to do to the car after that lol. Hopefully I can get this prototype done in a couple months, been to lazy and enjoying the summer, and that will be the beginning of phase 3
Prototype?
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Uh yeah... Does that surprise you?
Haha
No, but now I'm curious as to what's being planned.
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Its specifically for the awd swapped guys so yeah. Ill deff post up info on it when it is working and what not. its a game changer IMO
Awesome!
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Peeps with d2s.. How do you stop the clunk? The perches are tight. The spring knocks around at the top. How do I prevent this?
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Awesome... That is all
can you make a video? maybe have someone sit in the back and record the noise, I'm assuming the rear, Mine only clunks in the rear if I'm going fast over a bump, bump meaning a speed bump or a nasty lip on an overpass on the interstate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
What? lol thanks for helping.... jkQuote:
Originally Posted by IVORY_G
Its actually the front. And I'm ok with it but it freaks out everybody else that gets a rid lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Black8GV6
You mean like the spring is simply too short? Helper springs?Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Is the spring rubbing the perch in the slightest? And does your spring come with a "silencer rubber"? Tein makes these and it seemed to help in terms of removing my front end clunking. I have the SS and it has been solid since doing so.
Not short I guess, just has some play and idk why.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue8g
No, the d2s did not come with any rubber silencer crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by gojirars
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How do the d2s work? My teins preload adjustment and height adjustment are on the same rings so if you set teins all the way down the spring will be loose at full decompression. I believe this is called droop. BC has rings to adjust height via moving the bottom mount up and down and a separate set of rings to set preload in the spring. If d2's are set up this way, could it be possible that one side doesn't have enough preload set as the other?
like this lol. maybe they don't even have preload lol hmm.. time to readQuote:
Originally Posted by 4g63lover
Fuuuuuuck that's clean
Id definitely check the preload because if the spring droops, everytime the coilover assembly decompresses fully the spring will be loose.
I would say loose but I can spin the spring fairly easy by hand in the perch... D2 instructions clearly say dont touch the preload, and i have none lol
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Megans don't come preloaded but basically the instructions says to make sure preload is at 0 which means u can move the spring by hand like yours.
I have a clunking noise on my driver side that I need to inspect. But on the top of the spring mine has a cap that acts as an isolator which should prevent noise. Maybe yours is missing?? Unless both sides don't have it.
So is the spring contacting the top pillowball mount directly??
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My JIC's are the same way. The instructions if i remember correctly say not to pre-load them, I leave a very small amount of play like a couple of mm's worth. Enough so I can still spin the coil with my hand muchike yours and Spdrcer.
so how do I quiet them down if they didn't come with the rubber crap? I really don't want to take them apart...
My D2's are set so I can spin the springs by hand but the instructions say to make sure they don't have any up and down play, thats how mine are setup. Maybe try to find some kind of rubber to put around the coil like jigz said about the teins, or give them a slight preload, so you have absolutely no play at the spring.
Once I sprayed it with wd40 and another time I lined it with some type of grease but it did nothing so I just it ignore it now. Sorry I know this doesnt help.
Can u get a diagram of them broken down?? I know Megan racing has that on their site showing all the different components of the full assembly. I'm curious to see yours and compare them.
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Two rounds tighter than just touching the spring, front and back. Keep it's tight and quiet and a smidge more firm.
I've set up a number of cars this way, clocked over 100k on DDed cars (one with 55k and a few winters alone) and a few track days annually, nothing too serious though. No issues at all, the ones I've taken off for people have been in better shape than the used sets others buy and want put in. The ride is firm but more than manageable given the ideals coilover users follow. Just can't drive too much with a full bladder.
I have no installation experience with BC's but I've done the above with D2's, Megans and Ksports.
Thanks man, Ill give that a shot.
I use a set of digital calipers and make sure to set them to the same height, I get them to where they are resistant to turn by hand, not loose, not stiff, but turnable with resistance.
The best way is to do that and then corner balance, but that gets it very close if your ride height is adjusted right.
You could have a few Galant owners to cruise with if you moved down to FL :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Or to Cali
Need some input. Car runs fantastic in vac. As soon as I even go to 0 vac or into boost a little, car leans WAY Out, so bad it cuts out. Can't even do a pull into boost, very frustrating. Fuel system is good I checked all of it. I'm speed density, but what all factors into the ecu to adjust fuel? I'm going to bench test my AEM 5 bar tomorrow, but if that's good, where else to look? It's not the tune btw, he tried the ROM on someone else, no issues. Only 2 codes btw, knock sensor circuit 1 and iat sensor circuit 1, but the all meter to the ecu fine. Need some more ideas...
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This is obvious but wouldnt hurt to try. Have you done a boost leak test yet? Normally a boost leak will have rich conditions in boost or WOT. But I have seen skittles run lean due to a boost leak.