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im about finished with the pics..i went ahead and removed the engine so i could swap timing belts, water pump...maintenence stuff...clutch master cylinder u have to drill three holes in the forewall for it to pass through and hook to the pedal. shifter and cables bolt right in the place of the auto and the cables go through the holes and bolt in where the auto cables did...its so easy its no funny...u do lose your cruise control though
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annoying
Shea stadium is annoying b/c by the time you get out of there, you probably need all new suspension, rims, and wheels. So many pot HOLES, more than swiss cheese. And they are the size of a mattress, and the depth of a kitty pool.
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Are the holes that need to be drilled for the clutch marked out on the firewall? Thats what I heard, theyre indents are there but they arentpunch through.
Is it even possible to remove a tranny with the engine still in the car?
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yep if u look under there right about where it would go through under the dash you will see three holes diagonal to each other on the firewall stamped into it..the two outside ones are smaller and the one in the middle is about 3 inches or so..these are the template u need to cut out.
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cool dude. cant wait to see the photos and tutorial when your done https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif
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yeah ill have the tutorial soon
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this sony image station sucks..finished all my captions and shit and hit continue to upload everything and it just sits there....somethings gotta be wrong
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maybe just try to upload 5 or 10 at a time?
or, if it uplods them(goes through pic by pic with status bar) then just stays there with blank screen, click back, then refresh. usually works for me
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dude i have tried and tried..lol know of any other pages??im gonna try it through explorer first maybe that will work
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not sure man, imagestation always works fine for me
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here it is boys and girls!!! well the pics and captions anyway
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290548787
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ok those without imagestation would have to sign up to see these
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Whats the start button for? was it needed to swap trannies or just somethin you put in.
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Im so confused here. You swapped ecus and gauge clusters too? Why?
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I think he just had the cluster out
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I thought about that but the caption said thats all the parts that he was dumping, I cant understand why you would need to remove the gauge cluster to install an manual tranny anyway lol.
Besides why go through the trouble of swapping ecu's ? unless planning to go turbo and dont want to buy afc and knock controller.
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interesting, interesting...if i hafta pull the motor, i might as well just do a 4g63t swap with 5spd heh
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u dont have to remove the engine if u got a lift handy
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ecus are different fuel and timing maps..plus i swapped the 5 speed wiring harness in with it so i kept it all together. i swapped clusters because i wanted this whole setup to look like the factory did it..the 5 speed cluster doesnt have the P,R,N D and all of that on it..plus it has only 80,000 miles on it and my car was a one onwer when i bought it and we didnt write the mileage on the title yet https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...fault/wink.gif as far as the start button goes the factory auto setup works off a neutral safety switch which is wired into the dash harness..on the 5 speed car it works off a clutch switch and a relay with about 6 wires going to it...i would have to do all kinds of cutting and splicing and it would look like shit..you still have to use the key but the button looks fly..since you lose crusie control anyway swappin in a 5speed then you can take the right panel out on the dash where the button used to be and fab a plate for the button..i used carbon fiber and it looks TIGHT. plus if you go to vfaq and read the long ass 2g eclipse crank walk theory it states that some of the crank walk they were experinceing had to do with the oil squirters and the fact that youre pushing a load against the thrust bearing by pushing the clutch in on startup when the bearing is dry..repeated dry load startups against the back side of the bearing causes wear and premature failure(or thats the theory anyway) so i figured since our little 2.4 is made around the same architecture then this would help out longevity on the thrust bearing because you dont have to push the clutch in to start it..you just have to make sure you arent in gear and i dont know abuot you guys but i always pay attention at startup.
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no you dont have to remove the engine you are right but i did it for general maintenance reason( ie front and rea main seals, timting belts, water pump etc.) plus it makes it easier to line up the input shaft on the clutch disk when its out