he optima DOHC head has a 56cc combustion chamber and the evo has a 43cc and stock 8g SOHC head has 47cc
i cant find the Sonata dome cc's
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he optima DOHC head has a 56cc combustion chamber and the evo has a 43cc and stock 8g SOHC head has 47cc
i cant find the Sonata dome cc's
Im positive that the galants 8g CR is 9.0:1 i looked it up on Mitchell too.Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
The sonata head is a bigger chamber thats why we swap them onto our blocks to lower CR for boost. The optima and sonata engine are identical.
Im trying to find the links and stuff to verify.
Now Ill have to correct myself. These are the 8g pistons at TDC
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...s/HPIM0552.jpg
and the 7g one
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...d/DSCN7180.jpg
and how its flush with the deck
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...m/DSCN7104.jpg
I guess the ring of metal on the outside diameter of the piston makes the difference between 9.5 and 9.0. If that metal ring was there for the 8g pistons then they would be flush with the block. Im also guessing that the Sonata pistons are identical with the 7g pistons and thars why you called them "higher"
Mystic posted this earlier g4js pistons at tdc. they stick out a little bit ive read on club3g.Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticj
If 270hp is acheivable i would definately make this an option when i buy my next 4G engine
Are you looking at the same thread that i am?
http://www.club3g.com/forum/3g-eclip...ression-2.html
These are Kia Optima pistons, not Sonata
the guy says that the picture is taken without rod bearings installed, so they would be flush with the block when done.
Ok, question.
The Evo9 has the MIVEC option, right. What is the hardware that activates the Mivec in the actual head? Is it a simple solenoid thats pulls or pushes a lever, rod or whatever inside that switches to higher lift?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
sonata and kia pistons are the exact same thats why i say G4JS.Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
and thats the one thread that i read it(piston) sits a bit higher then stock.
In theory im sure the mivec system shouldnt be too hard given if you understand wiring and have a schematic. There would also need to have a switch of some sort witch can simply switch over cam file by the voltage reading on your tachometer. or more sophisticatedly have a stand alone or if a F/IC could do it program it in.
lol to get 270 the engine would need so much work it wouldn't even be reasonableQuote:
Originally Posted by BronxBlur23
potentially can but it wouldnt be a good daily driver. The set up im dealing with are all daily drive set ups around 170-220whp. Now underated's engine build will/should make 270 to the wheels hopefully. Turbo is your best bet... running 270 whp N/A youll need mivec!Quote:
Originally Posted by BronxBlur23
its all in the tune and less hardware.
BJ had fully built 3.5L with 11.0 CR and was around 225 hp.
Back in the day when i was subscribed to magazines, i used to read about little 1.6 hondas with 216 hp tuned with AEM EMS.
MItsubishis were never in this category since they are known for their boosted engines and being built as boosted engines and very few that are N/A
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
you will never make power with junk engine management. I bet an 11:1 CR on a 4G64 with a DOHC head and a cam grind meant for N/A and a good tune you can make 250whp easy. Maybe closer to 300whp if you had a custom intake manifold or ITB setup and a nice flowing exhaust manifold and system.
If i ever want to have a high CR 7g screamer that would be very easy to achieve.
4g64 block
Evo rods
either the KIA or stock pistons (or even better option would be 8g pistons with custom rods)
4g67 1.8L hyundai head (this is the big port 1g style head) fully polished and ported
+1mm valves
BC springs
6g AMG cams
Sheet metal intake manifold with Q45 90mm TB
Some sort of piggy back controller (MAFT + SAFC) is my favorite for now.
Stock tranny with just a LSD insert would be plenty.
Oh and for you 8g guys, get MAFTs and GM MAS'es. Believe me I had tremendous improvements over stock MAS when I was still N/A. It would spin tires just from the torque w/o dumping the clutch
See I would do all that except I would use a standalone or EVO ECU and flash it.
What do you think the benefits of the Gm MAS anf MAF-T on a stock motor with bolt ons be??Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
I dont know much about this set-up, but from what i have read on DSMTuners is that you need to tune it with it or it would just be worthless, am i correct with that??
So i can basically if i wanted to be cheap go to the junk yard and pick up a gm MAF sensor?. then buy the translator, wire things up and tune it properly? i need to do more research but this interests me.Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
you can run larger injectors keeping the same fuel economy. Even if you have a high CR built motor that outflows the stock injectors and lets say youre running 450cc the MAFT will add fuel to compensate for the increased airflow.Tuning is a childs play, once you get the base tune, which is very simple, thats pretty much it. You can run stock injectors with no problem. Its plug and play, all you need is to tap for the rpm signal. Car runs nice and smooth. Its a perfect foundation for future boost application. It conceals as OEM equipment, and unless youre in the Mitsubishi game, its impossible to recognize as an aftermarket part which makes it perfect for you guys who have to pass visual inspection.
As I said, I ran this way before i went turbo and that was the best mod I had done at that time. No exhaust, no headers, no CAI or even larger TB helped as much the MAFT setup did. I can only imagine what would MAFT setup would do with a CAI, Diamante TB and 2.5'' exhaust....wonders. A setup i never actually have had by the way.
I had the GM MAS coming off the TB, sitting right there in the engine bay, 60mm TB and 3'' exhaust and it still kicked ass.
I cant say anything but good things about it.
A simple base tune allowed me to run 5psi of boost, so a base tune would be more than enough for a N/A car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Exhaust power
I recommended this to Peanotation for his 7g. he got it but i dont think he has installed it yet.
Ill put the tuning options on hold till im closer enough to study them in detail.
But ok theres a bunch of G4JS heads sitting at the jy. But some things are keeping me from pulling it.
1. question: why do i need a adjustable cam gear for one of the cams? as i heard it would be to fit the belt. but isnt the 4G64 DOHC belt identical to the G4JS?
2. question: Can i use a G4JS belt? i really need some ones expertnesses.
3. The only thing i would need from the evo is(cant remember the name) but are ecu cant read the G4JS one for timing. Where can i get this part?
Im pretty close too just running down there and pulling a head. All the sonatas in there are under 140k and the one i got my pistons was 86k.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...ohc+parts+list
according to this thread says you need 2 evo cams do to the teeth count. But i have read others saying you only need one do to belt size?
Forget it swapping the head seams like a big project i dont have to much down time to be extending wires and shiz. I dont like touching my wires in the first place.
Made some answers, head swap isn't that bad. yes the list is drawn out and frighten but it's really not. Beside, why not try to swap the whole G4JS in your 8G?Quote:
But ok theres a bunch of G4JS heads sitting at the jy. But some things are keeping me from pulling it.
1. question: why do i need a adjustable cam gear for one of the cams? as i heard it would be to fit the belt. but isnt the 4G64 DOHC belt identical to the G4JS?
To set the timing, if you prefer for obvious reasons: Milled head, decked block, etc. At least one adjustable cam gear WITH an Evo cam gear. The 4G64 DOHC belt will make the swap a breeze. The G4JS cam gears will not work with the 4G63/4 belt and vice versa, or stick with the G4JS cam gears and belt.
2. question: Can i use a G4JS belt? i really need some ones expertnesses.
See answer to question number 1
3. The only thing i would need from the evo is(cant remember the name) but are ecu cant read the G4JS one for timing. Where can i get this part?
Are you talking about cam sensor? Swap the 4G64 cam sensor, housing, and wheel to the G4JS head. The Evo and 4G64 has the same cam output signal.
Im pretty close too just running down there and pulling a head. All the sonatas in there are under 140k and the one i got my pistons was 86k.
why cant i swap the whole G4JS? I posted it in my first post. Basically that engine has no adjustable cam gears and as i read in the link i posted^ the teeth count is different from the evos and 4G64. That would of been my most favorable option.Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticj
Thanks for painting that picture better!. But im not a fan of cutting harness wires is this necessary when doing the swap?Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticj
I dont mind un wrapping the wire loom to pull out the wires more.
Swap the G4JS oil pump, crank t-belt, and cam gears for the 4G63/4 ones, then you can add adjustable cam gears to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Exhaust power
How about the the crank shaft gear?. Yeah That would of worked also. but to late now and price wise they would be around the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticj
If you find a G4JS head untouch, you are good to go but remember the valve springs are weaker than the Evo valve springs so upgrade them to some used Evo ones. BTW, G4JS pistons with 4G64 head=11.5:1CR
Good to know ill deff end up pulling the head ill just have to wait longer to put it on. 11.5:1 is to high for my likings.
that is a perfect ratio. What is too high about it? If you want to see some good number low compression is not the way to go
Im good with the 10.0:1. Im not an expert so im not going to say much but im not sure if the CR will match my upgrades.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg7243
Just to clarify...The G4JS pistons wont go in an clear the valves without having the +1 mm valves? Am i wrong?
where did you here that from? they drop in and clear the valves. But according to mystic they might not clear with a aggressive cam. That Info is here in this threadQuote:
Originally Posted by The_fresh_Galant
whats a +1 mm valves? a shorter valve or something?
a +1mm valve is a valve that is actually 1mm oversized the stock one, you can open up the valve opening, and do a bigger port allowing more are and whatnot in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Exhaust power
Ok haven't heard of that term in a wile. Im not sure where you got That from but the pistons will clear fine. I believe the clearance will decrease with a bigger valve so clearance should to be taken into account.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg7243
A mild combo like HKS 272/264 & BC272 will most likely clear, something like Kelford 272 or Tomei Procam will need the pistons to be clayed to check for clearance.Quote:
where did you here that from? they drop in and clear the valves. But according to mystic they might not clear with a aggressive cam. That Info is here in this thread
yeah claying definitely will help determine clearance. So for right now ill run stock G4JS cams/springs and when i get the blox 264s ill swap in the evo springs and later maybe a 272 intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticj
ok ok, my bad i was actually thinkn +1 was actually a shorter valve to clear the height of the G4JS.
eclipse ecu is your best bang for the buck if your 5 speed, dual ecu's if your not
the eclipse does have a knock sensor so and evo ecu is not necessary for that reason, im using a 02 eclipse 5speed ecu and flashed an evo rom into it no problems there you just need to adjust the tables
you need the evo reluctor to go on the end of the exhaust cam, get it from mitsu and dont forget the bolt also its like $20 if i remember correctly
i highly suggest you get the evo intake manifold, the stock g4js intake manifold works fine but is too tall if you decide to use a straight across strut bar it wont allow for clearence, the long runners are nice for a little torque boost tho.
if you have other questions post them on here and i'll try to answer them as best i can but its been awhile since ive been heavy into this stuff.
i have pictures of a lot of stuff so if you need something let me know and ill see if i have them to post.
goodluck with your build
Did you ever 'finish' your NA build?Quote:
Originally Posted by underated
naw i shipped out before i got to swap in the evo i/m, new clutch and flywheel, and do the tuning. i just got the car smogged (another benefit to evo rom, there is a patch to pass emissions testing no matter what). its running way rich and i havent driven it for a little over a year so im getting back into it and first getting in corner balanced sway bar and rear camber kit and aligned then manifold and clutch/flywheel then im going to jump into tuning it
i work too much now and im in an apartment so i dont have a garage to work anymore i gotta take it to the autoshop on base
Ahh I see....good luck man, and thanks for your serviceQuote:
Originally Posted by underated