Well I'm not throwing any old parts out just yet. So maybe I'll see if I can make the 4 cylinder rack work. It should have the same coupling to the column
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Today's update.... clutch master cylinder installed, clutch pedal installed, brake pedal installed, shifter and cables installed, steering column installed, 99% of wiring finished, starter installed, power steering pump installed, exhaust installed, battery tray installed, 1 bolt left for the alternator, 1 more line to install for power steering, vacuum and coolant lines attached to engine. I'm pretty sure I successfully bypassed the immobilizer. Won't know for sure until it's running, but I cranked it for a second.
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Immobilizer will allow to crank. It'll cut ignition once it turns over.
Take the immobilizer box and key/tumbler from eclipse then it'll work.
Also you should upgrade to the sportier 3G steering wheel while you're at it.
By pass is to fool the ecu into thinking the correct key is in the tumbler. But ut requires the the use of matching ecu, in this case the V6.
You're only other option would be to disable the immobilizer with a computer and programming cable, I personally still have not played around with that.
Since you swapped harnesses and ECU. Simply plug in the immobilizer box located under the radio and switch out the ignition switches and it'll work.
It's not the tumbler, it's the lighted ring that detects the rf in the key fyi
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^^^ Correct. The ring detects the RF signal coming from the key and transmits it to the box under the radio and to the ECU.
But the eclipse key won't turn the Galant switch therfore the switch part has to be swapped too.
good work but you could at least cleaned and painted the chassis near the engine
It's getting there. Had to use the 4g64 power steering line. The 6g72 is too short.
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Yea, that pump is in back on the V6 and up front on the i4.
Keep up the updates bro. Real good stuff happening here.
Have about what fluid to run in the 5 speed?
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Idk why it put it sideways
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I believe that covers GL5 applications which you do not want.
I ordered RedLine MT90. I switched from Pennzoil SynchroMesh and I love it I wouldn't run anything else.
I looked at SynchroMesh and it didn't say GL4. This says API GL-4 on it. Still no good?
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It's when it states GL5 that I don't feel comfortable running it. Something about our brass synchros.
SynchroMesh for me was very notchy shifting in.
It's so close to running. New axles are in. Spindles, brakes, and belts are all in. I need to wire in the immobilizer and fill fluids. Hopefully it's on the road tomorrow
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Some pics from today....
New axle seals
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Normal grill
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Painted grill
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A few more things on the engine. Clutch is bled now too
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New front mount
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well this is something ive missed for a little while. good to see someone actually documenting this type of swap. i know a bunch of people have tried and given up one way or ther other. its def coming along very well, cant wait to see a vid of the tach revving!
https://youtu.be/MdlymxGfkV0
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And there we go! Some minor stuff to button up, but I'm pleased
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Some other pics from today....
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The oil pan was dented near where the oil pickup is. So I decided to pull the pan and straighten it to make sure the oil pump isn't starved.
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Topped off fluids today. Bled the cooling and power steering. Secured the wiring harnesses. Installed the wheel well liners. Relocated the battery to the trunk. Replaced 4 tires. Wired my headlights back up. Installed the hood. Drove it a good distance tonight and developed a steady oil leak. Not sure where from. That may have to wait until Saturday.
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The service engine light is because I'm missing a knock sensor. The one from the old engine had a wire ripped out, and the new engine was missing one
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Good work he's coming back Alive
Knock sensor? On a 4cyl?
Eclipse comes with them I think
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Drove it 30 miles and it sprung a rapid oil leak. It's home now. I topped off the oil and added UV leak dye. I found the area it's coming from, but not exactly what's leaking
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Hard to see, but between the alternator and the block, you can see the oil glowing under the black light.
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It's coming out of the timing belt cover, above the oil filter housing
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Check the gasket behind the camshaft gear
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The car is now back at the shop. Closer diag of the oil leak begins in about 30 minutes. I went ahead and got the balance shaft seal, front crank seal, and oil pump gear seal. I'm guessing it's one of those
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I think I fixed it. I decided to play it safe and leave it at the shop tonight. I'll qc it more tomorrow. It was leaking from behind the hydraulic belt tensioner. I also swapped the knock sensor I needed from the 6g72.
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Knock sensors on the back of the block
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Left one is oil pressure sensor right one is knock sensor
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