Galantman03's 8G Build

dont run full blown...its Fully Blown crap that never Stops Leaking!!!!

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Originally Posted by Stewi

It looks nothin like ours. It's just a metal top plate with a pump hanger. Your best bet is to run a full blown 2g double pumper. I know some people mod the 2g plate and make it a double pumper. What are your power goals? I run one in-tank 255 and one in-line 255 old school AMS style and it works well. You can also just run a single aeromotive 340lph and be good into the mid 600 to low 700 range. If your running E85 I think the double pumper is the only option due to the higher volume requirements.

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Double pumper really is my only option, fuel is between e85 and e98, only thing I'm worried about is water absorbtion. I've heard too many problems with aeromotive so im Thinking deatsch werks 320 lph, 2 of them

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Originally Posted by GOOSEY2099

dont run full blown...its Fully Blown crap that never Stops Leaking!!!!

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Where does it leak, at the unions where the fuel lines connect?

it leaks on top where they epoxyed in the wires... Just do this


David Buschur [email protected]
Jul 26
to me

I can build you a double pumper, it's $500 complete. I don't use other pumps because I want these to leave here with our modded pumps in them and the socks/location of the socks that I prefer, it's not just because I want to make money on selling the fuel pumps, just so you know.

Does he have a 340 lph option?

email and ask... he does require you to send him your original assembly

Crap Lol gotta find one

Ok never mind that whole idea.. What you need is just a 2g walboro 450 pump. And that's it!

-Roman

Got some items installed them.
Head gasket, h11 head studs, and lifters.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-17-31_893.jpg

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...12-53-48_6.jpg

just make sure to bleed the lifters again before installing the cams...with all the money invested here last thing you need is some bent valves lol

did you go with a modified oem headgasket?

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Originally Posted by fatal1

just make sure to bleed the lifters again before installing the cams...with all the money invested here last thing you need is some bent valves lol

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I know lol, i bled them

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Originally Posted by xd_01

did you go with a modified oem headgasket?

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No, pe heavy metal gasket. I had a hard time choosing, was reading for a while on evom, and yeah. Ultimately, decided based on maps liking to this gasket, and seeing the power that it was capable of.

Ok, I'm having some problems finding items i need. Basically because I'm going with a fluid dampner pulley, i have to redo the whole serpentine line. I cannot find the alternator tensioner bolts, the long one and the short one. I have caps, cannot locate them, any ideas? Also, do the evo and galant use the same power steering pump?
As far as cam gears, how the heck do we get the fridanza lined up? I'm a bit confused

the timing is tricky, the way brian did mines was by lining up the dowel pins on the inside of the cam gears, it comes out being about 7 degrees off from the increased deck hieght.
its funny though as many 2.4 motors that are out there on evom when you ask or search how to time one all you hear is crickets lol.

theres another way though that i did find on evom were the end result is the both the cam gears are about 3.5 degrees out which to me made alot more sense.

its long read but its good

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-eng...ctly-time.html

since MAP did your short block i would call them up and ask them, they should be able to tell you no problem.

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Originally Posted by xd_01

the timing is tricky, the way brian did mines was by lining up the dowel pins on the inside of the cam gears, it comes out being about 7 degrees off from the increased deck hieght.
its funny though as many 2.4 motors that are out there on evom when you ask or search how to time one all you hear is crickets lol.

theres another way though that i did find on evom were the end result is the both the cam gears are about 3.5 degrees out which to me made alot more sense.

its long read but its good

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-eng...ctly-time.html

since MAP did your short block i would call them up and ask them, they should be able to tell you no problem.

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Good link. It is nothing but an argument between 3 members about who's right lol

well i did say long read lol, but the info. is there just gotta look past the bs

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Originally Posted by xd_01

well i did say long read lol, but the info. is there just gotta look past the bs

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I got a good understanding until they started arguing again and I lost it. I should have stopped once I got it lol

yeah I got lost too lol.
OK I need a good product to attach the fender flares, other wise I'm drilling holes for the rears, they are being a pain. I have tried 3m molding tape, 3m molding tape with gasket glue... still pops off. I'm a bit pissed off right now about that lol

http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-01-55_626.jpg

Car looks sick! And the skirts came out really nice

do you know how much map took off of the head and block when they resurfaced it? all that plays a part in timing your enigne. since you have the engine out of the car just use a degree wheel. you wont get more exact then that.

i have mine set at +3/+3 using the 94 galant belt

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Originally Posted by 99galantES

Car looks sick! And the skirts came out really nice

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thanks man, sadly I will have to repaint them again lol. as well as the front bumper, metallic is tricky to lay it on right.

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Originally Posted by underated

do you know how much map took off of the head and block when they resurfaced it? all that plays a part in timing your enigne. since you have the engine out of the car just use a degree wheel. you wont get more exact then that.

i have mine set at +3/+3 using the 94 galant belt

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I don't know off the top but I could ask them. I was going to use a degree wheel, but never used one at all.