Spinnin ain't winnin!
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Spinnin ain't winnin!
Well boost lab called me, looks like it's cheaper for me to buy a new turbo then have that one fixed so wend ahead and ordered a new sc6076e will be here by Friday!
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Screw Precision.
Personal opinion. I find them very well built
Why? Mine's still spinning strong after almost 5 years of abuse, salty winters, and a couple leaky oil lines :orangelaugh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
I know a few people who've had stories like Mitch, gotten them rebuilt and blown them up the exact same way again. I'm also partial to Holsets I will admit.
I guess they changed the design which is why it would cost so much for me to have mine fixed, they would have to order the parts from pte and pte would have to make them so it would probably take a couple weeks to actually get the thing here. Oh well ill get her running again with this one.
Mitch didn't you mention a rod knock? Did that not end up being the case?
Idk was just going to replace my bearings think one of my caps loosened up or wasn't torqued right
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I think you could pull this all off and have the car here by Friday for a dyno session. ;)
If one of the rod caps loosened up i hop it didn't round out the big end.
the car only ran for a couple seconds after it started knocking, everything happened right before i pulled her into the garage. after that the car has never ran again.
Rob, thought you said spinnin aint winnin ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Galant306m
And ill make sure to be present when you get it going again so it breaks again.
Rob, thought you said spinnin aint winnin ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Galant306m
And ill make sure to be present when you get it going again so it breaks again.
TrololololololQuote:
Originally Posted by 00galantguy
Lol Friday Travis going to work on it that night if I get my turbo in.
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Loving this build
Well drop the pan before you go any further then. If the bearing started falling apart then you already have shaving in your oil pan then the system is contaminated. I wasn't able to read through all 59 pages but i would pull the engine out if that was the case. On a stock motor i wouldn't care or a motor that has some miles i wouldn't care either. But it sounds like you have a fresh build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galant306m
Yea i have it all pulled apart already lol the bottom end got pulled apart right away, didnt look to bad at all little to no wear on the rod bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by imback
Im thinking most of it went to the turbo the rest just got cought in the filter, I pulled all my cam caps off to just to make sure those where ok. Going to buy some really cheap oil and just dump it through with no pan on.
Another little update on the turbo situation, looks like PTE doest offer the 6076 anymore so boost lab upgraded me to the 6176 and because of their mistake im getting a billet upgrade, polished housing and ceramic coated hot side minus the difference for the standard 6176. I also ordered a new set of rod bearings (ACL race bearings) and a oil filter sandwich adapter.
I can't wait til you get that thing. Gonna be NICE turbo.
770hp rated!
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Oh snap son! This thing is really gonna move now.
I don't foresee factory internals getting along real well at that level. Lol
I dont for see my car reaching that hp ROFL
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/30/asujubem.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/30/e3e3y2as.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/30/davysu2u.jpg
Oil filter sandwich came in today, and this is how she sits atm, turbo should be here tomorrow or Wednesday.
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I got the same sandwich. Had to mod the shit out of it to make it stop leaking.
Show me what you had to do I didn't install it yet.
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The groove in the top where the O ring sits it so deep that the O ring doesn't end up sealing very well because it sits in there so far. I put it on the belt sander like 6 times. If you look at it from the side there is like a small raised section that makes up the outer edge of that groove, I took it about half way down with the sander.
I'll just mill it down some at work. Just measure the depth make it half the dia of the oring.
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That's the idea. I also drilled out the ports since they're way smaller than the AN fittings it comes with. Otherwise I've had no issues. Seals fine now, no leaks.
Ill grab it on lunch
I think the problem with those sandwich adaptors that I found was that the anodized coating was too smooth for the orings to seal. I ended up sanding off the coating inside the groove and on the face where the oil filter sits IIRC.
Only thing is if you are using that for an external oil cooler you are going to overcool your oil, and your engine oil will take a lot longer to warm up. With no oil cooler on a cool day it usually takes a mile or two of driving to warm up your oil to operating temp. Cold oil = high oil pressures, especially if you rev high.
If I were you I would get an evo3 oil filter housing. They have a built in thermostatic bypass. Its what I used on my GS(i used a 1990 housing because I was 6 bolt but you get the idea)
Pony up. Screw those crappy sandwich adaptors.
I was looking for a actual filter housing just never came across one, I think a lot of my issues came since i went off of my factory housing. I'll give this think a try I thought about that exact same thing with the anodizing yesterday when I opened it up. Thanks for the info John will consider it.
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Mine heats up just fine even when it's cold out. All depends on where you put the cooler.
Thing wont thread in, pissing me off hahah, the extension just will not thread on what so ever. Going to have to grab a die from work tomorrow and see if i can get it.
10$ says you got the wrong thread size fittings. They sent me a total of three kits trying to get me one with the right sized fitting, none of them came with the metric fitting so I ended up reusing one from my old sandwich.
You know what thread its supposed to be ill make my own lol will be quicker
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You work at a machine shop..?
I know for sure it's M20, I'm 90% certain thread pitch is 1.5.
Yea I am a tool and die maker lol
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Interesting. I need to find a good CNC shop...