Just ordered some prothane motor inserts on amazon, Which combination works best (functional and not that much vibration), I've heard to mount only the front one and the rest oem, or to mount them all except the rear one?
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Just ordered some prothane motor inserts on amazon, Which combination works best (functional and not that much vibration), I've heard to mount only the front one and the rest oem, or to mount them all except the rear one?
galant1210 and I Installed my walbro fuel pump. Pain in the ass.
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Made the opening bigger for better return flow
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All done
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I read on c3g some guys where getting good results of eliminating wheel hop and not having that much vibration with those combinations, I think I'll try all except the rear one, I've been following M-rod and your posts about the sleeves, do all of them need sleeves?
Well I definitely did something, just not a good something. Forgot to latch my CF hood today...
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Go me!
I got every seam on the car slathered with pour 15 from the core support to the gas tank, then coated it all in 3m undercoat. Next up is taking out the gas tank and rear subframe and giving the back end the same treatment. I'm looking for a good way to eliminate the evap system, or revamp it so it doesn't go back to its old problems. Extreme corner duty on a full tank seems to mess with the system a lot.
Have you seen the pictures of what happens when you don't sleeve them or install one roll stop and not that other? Matt literally shattered the rear mount bracket and elongated the front one to the point that it started tearing the steel.
On the rear you can get away with a 7/16 through bolt, it fits perfectly snug in both the pin and the mounting bracket so no drilling is necessary. The front mount however needs sleeves badly or it'll bounce all over and destroy the mount over time even if you aren't beating on it. Matt tore clean through that bushing before he had sleeves. The trans and side mount fit fine.
If you have a 6 you won't have vibration problems installing all four. You'll simply love how the car responds and drives with them, all the locals here have all four and you couldn't tell by sitting at a stop light and listening for vibration. The four is a different story.
Yes I saw Matt pic of the broken mount/insert, I'll sleeve them for sure, I am a 4cyl 5spd so I know it will vibrate and I read some posts on c3g and thats why I ask since they some said to install only the front one and leave the rest oem or install all of them except for the rear engine one.
I wrote a how to a while back with a bigger bolt instead of the sleeves. This isnt exactly new stuff here
Replaced both control arms and had to fix my short throw shifter again...stupid eBay crap.
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Good for you.
Four cylinders both auto and manual have complained about vibrations. I've never been in a 4 that had the mounts so I can't comment on exactly how bad it is but I know a lot of them just deal with it and are fine. The automatic is by far worse because you have to deal with the fluid couple.
My Hytech headers came today, there's several pieces but you just want to see this:
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removed the sound insulation from underneith the back seat and installed my strut tower brace, both nicely compliment the manual steering
just ordered full polyurethane bushing kit, DDM HID kit, and some nitrous parts :bouncing:
a little early christmas present for myself
Installed front and rear bumpers and rear extensions. Working on wiring my HIDs for the fogs next
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I know the color is off but I plan on polishing the car maybe ill get it close. Either way looks better than mismatching colors.
Bought HIDs for the headlights and a LED bulb for the license plate light. Also got a 10'' Kicker sub+box and amp for $40.
Fog lights are next check with interior lights to LED.