Thats a lot of power...
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Thats a lot of power...
Machine shop just has to reassemble the heads (just valve springs + valve stem seals + valves - they can do this a lot easier than I! :p) and I can bring everything home to start building a new long block. Definitely this weekend. Might take off Mon. and Tues. to actually get everything back together.
dang i bet tomorrow and friday will feel realllllly long
I will take some pics of my intercooler install this or next week when im done. I just got a spearco core and some cast end tanks, the core is 22x10x3 and with the tanks its 28.5x10x3. I mocked it up with the JDM Old Style VR4 bumper and with my crash bar and its gonna be tight but it will fit. Im notching out the back of the crash bar so the intercooler kinda slides up behind it. If you need extra room for clearance, I removed the power steering cooler and that bolt that goes into the bottom of the rad support that holds the lock support on, then I hit it with an angle grinder and just pushed that lock support back a few millimeters and tack weld it, it gave me another 1/4" clearance.
Thanks for the tips man. PS cooler is gone cause PS was removed completely a while back.
Oooh, new Ricer Red radiator hoses (old ones were starting to get really nasty and I still had the weird one RIPP gave me for the top hose).
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0045.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0050.jpg
Had to trim them up quite a bit for a good fit:
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0049.jpg
Photos of my new radiator with my "Tuned by GReddy" radiator cap to come :lol: I really wanted to go ahead and just give this cooling system a bit of an upgrade while I was tearing into the engine bay again.
I love how much room the manual trans free's up, seriously, you can sit on the core support with your legs down in the engine bay.
Some good news. Was able to catch a ride over to the machine shop and get my block and heads. Scrubbed the cylinders down really well and filed the rings! Here are some photos because I just love to whore out my engine builds.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0051.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0052.jpg
Nice crosshatching
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0055.jpg
Gotta throw this junk back on
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0056.jpg
Fully rebuilt and resurfaced cylinder heads
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0057.jpg
Sweet surface finish
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0060.jpg
Shit to throw back on the heads
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0061.jpg
Scrubbin' some cylinders
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0063.jpg
Mmmmmm... soapy block. That shit is hot yo!
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0065.jpg
Draining the water back out
Looking real nice and clean clean man. :cool:
The ring end gaps I'm using this time around:
0.016" top ring gap
0.028" 2nd ring gap
and as usual, left the oil scrapers alone
These are per 3SX's recommendations here: http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread....light=ring+gap
The relatively tight top gap will allow me to keep really strong compression and good driveability and the larger 2nd ring gap allows for any built-up pressure between the top and 2nd ring lands to escape to the crank case. This is CRITICAL on a boosted engine.
What's nice is that this time around the rings came gapped a little tighter so I was able to start off with a tight top gap. I know it's not the cylinder bore or anything because I threw in a previously-gapped ring and it measured out at 0.026" gap which is what I set it to on the other block.
Yay, I only get to rebuild half that.
Well I got the engine out today! Plan is to tear down the old engine tonight and then build the new one tomorrow. Taking my time on this whole deal; I expect to be out driving next weekend.
Photos:
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0066.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0068.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0069.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0072.jpg
Holy crap, don't fall!
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0073.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0075.jpg
Decided to leave the trans in... might prove to be difficult when reversing this operation.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0076.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/RIMG0078.jpg
Cheap SPEC clutch holding up well despite how much I abuse it.
damn bro i wish i was there to help as always. did you buy your turbo yet? oh and damn i forgot how big that FMIC was when i bought it but its going to fill up that bumper just like it should and will look oh so aggressive when the bumper is off. make sure to have all the hoses beaded to.
oh and OBX (thumbs down project) i should have my samco evo hoses coming in soon. i know ill have to mod them to fit but at least i know they wont fade and look all stupid four months after my car puts them through some heat cycles.
man im looking forward to seeing this thing up an running, ive been following this whole build from start till current.
for what model car did u get those radiator hoses? were they for an evo engine an u trimmed them?.. engines gonna be hot though, cant wait to see this beasts hp numbers
Bah, boostzealot, they're only silicone hoses. 4 ply silicone, I surely hope it doesn't fade lol. It's not like I'm using some rubber crap for my radiator hoses.
They were actually for a V6 3rd gen Eclipse, but fitment wasn't even close to correct for the Galant, so I trimmed them to fit well.
This is the last I'll be updating this thread. You'll see why soon. I really hope this coverage has inspired some of you to do a similar build. If you need any advice or want to know how the second full build turned out, shoot me a PM. This thread is closed as of now.