Did you end up getting this?
http://magnusmotorsports.com/product...omoly-subframe
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Did you end up getting this?
http://magnusmotorsports.com/product...omoly-subframe
LOL nope, not yet.
This is still up in the air. I want it, because its baller, it saves weight and it allows for alot of fine tuning, but at the same time, it creates a ton of drivetrain noise and god forbid I ever bend something by hitting a pothole or something, I would be sooo f'ked
a little late to the party, but congrats!!!
this. is. awesome. I've been wanting to do this swap as well. Is this all you'd need to do the swap? like what all parts did you need to do the swap and how much did it cost?
More than you can afford pal, AWD.
lol ^
damn ! gj stewie , :D
i started my conversion too but still early , only got the evo coilovers so far ....
so how is it?
u still running ur evo head setup ?
Hey, I noticed that you had to clearance your firewall to fit the Evo 8/9 tcase. Have you thought about running an Evo 5/6 tcase instead?
They run under the subframe in an Evo instead of over it so I bet you wouldn't have to clearance the firewall at all! Also, I bet an 8G GVR4
fuel tank would be a bolt in so you wouldn't have to cut your frame rails open. That would make the swap totally bolt in!!! Any thoughts?
The evo 5 and 6 tcase is good for like 350 horsepower. Anybody doing AWD is gonna need more than that.
The main reason I didn't do it is because of what Silvertune said, but also in order to run the evo 8 case you have to drop the steering rack about 2 to 3 inches, and its easier to drop something than to raise the steering rack. When it was all said and done hacking up the stock subframe and what not, all 3 of us that did convert to awd went it on a custom frame so we could run evo front lca and evo steering rack. I think it should be tried that way this are more viable options for parts but I'm done with mine so thats not gonna happen lol
Actually the Evo 5/6 tcase can handle plenty of power. Its the ayc rear diff that has issues with breaking; but the Evo 8/9 diffs have the same gear ratio so you can use an Evo 5/6 tcase and an Evo 8/9 diff and have no troubles. Doesn't apply to you since yours is already finished as you said; but something to note for guys looking to do their own awd swap!
Hey, got a quick question for you! Am I correct in saying that for the rear end part of the awd swap, everything was bolt up except for the 2G fuel tank?
If the fuel tank is the only problem part of the rear end, I might have my buddy pick one up for us to swap in before he buys a the rear end so we can knock
the hard part out first. Does the harness need to be modified at all or are the connectors all the same? Was gonna pm you but I figured it might be relevant info
for others reading your thread.
No, that was the only thing that was in a bolt in affair. I still ended up drilling another hole for one of the tank straps. The rear end isn't a bolt up thing, gott so some cutting and relocation of some bolts in the body
Its easier to do it all at once, trust me. what do you mean by harness? you have to cut and splice the tank harness into the the galants wiring.
Oh, so adding the bolts to the frame rails is for the subframe as well then? I misunderstood and thought it was only for the fuel tank mounts.
It mentions relocating fuel tank bolts on the first page though, so what's that about? Yeah, it's just cost concerns. Pretty much he won't be
buying a donor car; so I figured we'd grab a piece at a time from the pull yard starting with the fuel system. The wiring harness is what I meant.
So you used 2G fuel tank wiring and just spliced it in place of the Galant wiring? That's easy enough then. I wasn't sure if the Galants wiring for
the fuel tank was the same as the 2G's or not. How much did you use from the 2G? I have to grab a pair of fuel pump pigtails for my Mirage build
anyway, (2G connectors are the same as Evo 4-6.5) so I'll probably just grab the harness off of a 3rd 2G for the Galant project.
Its kinda hard to explain as I don't think any of us 4 did the same thing on each conversion lol. but yes you have to move body studs for the subframe to bolt up and do some cutting and clearancing for the tcase up front. best thing to do is look through the build threads
brian roman and I all went in on it. https://www.facebook.com/NrgTechRacing?fref=nf
nice build i have been looking for some more pics of your and goosey's build. i have searched and search and found a few pics but not the build thread any way you guy could help me out a bit please. and trust me i have searched and search using the search tools with no luck. i currently have the engine in the car currently and i am working on the crossmembers now.