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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>tron who is a club3g member runing the same kit i got is useing an FMU and he stated
'You won't need to tune the car. The kit comes with an MAS/MAF, whatever it is, modification kit. As the kit comes, there is no need for an FPR, emanage, or larger injectors. The injectors that come in the kit are big enough for the application they are intended for. Â*
I have NO PROBLEMS with the FMU.'
so its got me confused,even russ told me he likes the afpr n emange over the FMU, but do you guys think the FMU will be okay for 8 psi?? if i ever boost up i can upgrade to the emange and afpr? but then i would have to buy an in cabin fuel preesure guage..daym i hate when i think i got a hold of everything and i get new info
But when i go to tearstone.com and see thier new setup and priceing, i see they ditch the FMU and pick up an emange..SOOO im stickin wit the afpr and emange...shyt dont gota tell me twice,wow it was good venting my porblem</div>
i don't care what that guy thinks. electronic tuning OWNS fmu's period. i don't care how much or how little boost you are running.
think about this.
lets say you just have intake exhauust and headers, maybe some pulleys, a little port work etc.
bolt on an fmu what happens. nothing. you will hve no control over out of boost tuning. with that said, you would have no way to refine your fuel curve in order to take advantage of these mods.
the same thing will happen with your fmu when out of boost. so you will have no way to tune your idle or midrange fuel curve. you will simply be stuck with what the fmu hands out for the given boost pressure.
with the emanage you can also have control over timing. a definate plus in my book. especially for you guys boosting motors on stock ecu's.
your boy on club3g just wants to emphasize that it CAN be done for dirty cheap. but i'm here to tell you that if you want it done right, you have to shell out a bit more.
your boy with the fmu will be able to go sit on a dyno, and be stuck with whatever power numbers and a/f ratio's the fmu provides him with.
and he will be helpless to make any changes. if he did need and want to make changes... what will he need?-------a piggyback fuel computer of course. just like the emanage.
however on the dyno you w/ emanage will be able to see the wideband readout, find the area's where you need to add fuel, and the areas where you need to take some away; or add or pull timing.
the difference here is that you with emanage will have the power to dial in the changes with the click of a button or two. and you will yeild MORE power, safer. no matter how much or little the boost is.
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hey dohc you kno whats funny...I GEt what ur saying :shock: im getting this whole turbo talk..it makes sence ya im stickin wit the AFPR and emange i relized after talkin to a guy who gots the aeromotive i will need to
modify my stock fuel rail by tap threading it and putting two fittings in it that can connect to my fuel hoses. so if i get braided stainless hoses, i will need a NPT -> -6 convertor adapter on my fuel rail and the hose ends gota be -6 fittings.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>hey dohc you kno whats funny...I GEt what ur saying Â*:shock: im getting this whole turbo talk..it makes sence ya im stickin wit the AFPR and emange i relized after talkin to a guy who gots the aeromotive i will need to Â* Â*
modify my stock fuel rail by tap threading it and putting two fittings in it that can connect to my fuel hoses. so if i get braided stainless hoses, i will need a NPT -> -6 convertor adapter on my fuel rail and the hose ends gota be -6 fittings.</div>
yeah, but you don't HAVE to get braided hoses if you don't want to. there are other high pressure soft line that allows you to use simple press lock fittings. which are much cheaper too.
that kit that i posted in the previous post has the aeromotive a fuel rail adaptor, and all the fittings you would need. as well as a bracket w/ which to mount the afpr.
what i did, was go to my local hydraulic supply store and bought the cheap steel 6-an fittings(brass is just as good and cheaper) i needed as well as the hose. did all the plumbing for about 55 bucks(i bought a bolt on fuel rail adaptor that set me back about 30 bucks after shipping) i should have just tapped the fuel rail. would have been much much cheaper.
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that soubds goood i got an hydro placedown the street ima stop buy tommow and ask them also pick up an tranny cooler from pepboys..hey do u think i need an turbo timer right now?? ae they need i get mixed signles from that
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>that soubds goood i got an hydro placedown the street ima stop buy tommow and ask them also pick up an tranny cooler from pepboys..hey do u think i need an turbo timer right now?? ae they need i get mixed signles from that</div>
The turbo timer is more of a luxury than anything - just let the car sit and cool down a bit before shutting it off (basically what a turbo timer does).
Speaking of which, anyone use the "turbo timer" feature apparently built into the Clifford Matrix 3.5/Viper 791 alarms?
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yeah a turbo timer is nice, but lets try to keep your initial costs down.
if your turbo is watercooled, you don't have to let it cool for nearly as long as you would for a dry cartridge.
Here is a tip to live by...
if you are out boosting and you know you are a mile away from your destination, stay off the throttle. take it extra easy for that last stretch of your trip/commute/whatever. if you take it really easy, your oil temps will fall on their own(easy by keeping your revs down, and using very little throttle). then you will only really have to idle your motor for 20 seconds or so when you arrive at your destination.
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I went to pepboys today to buy the tranny cooler, i printed out the model number that they sell on rippmods.com,but they didn't have any dimensions on that only the manufacture and part# so it was useless, but the guy was cool enough to print everything out for me, i bought the HOC401 listed below, he said i can return it as long as i don't install it, would this fit? anybody the the right size? Or a close to size?
Rapid Cool-Hevey duty $69.99
3/4" X 9-3/4" X 11"
does not require fitting kit
Part number- HOC678
Ultra Cool-Light duty $29.99
3/4" X 5" X 12-3/4"
Does not require fiting kit
Part#HOC401
Ultra Cool-Medium Duty $49.99
3/4" X 7-1/2" X 12-3/4"
Does not require fiting kit
Part#HOC403
Ultra Cool-Heavy duty $ 64.99
3/4" X 7-1/2" X 15-1/2"
Does not require fiting kit
Part#HOC404
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>I went to pepboys today to buy the tranny cooler, i printed out the model number that they sell on rippmods.com,but they didn't have any dimensions on that only the manufacture and part# so it was useless, but the guy was cool enough to print everything out for me, i bought the HOC401 listed below, he said i can return it as long as i don't install it, would this fit? anybody the the right size? Or a close to size?
Rapid Cool-Hevey duty $69.99
3/4" X 9-3/4" X 11"
does not require fitting kit
Part number- HOC678
Ultra Cool-Light duty $29.99 Â* Â* Â*BOUGHT THIS UNIT
3/4" X 5" X 12-3/4"
Does not require fiting kit
Part#HOC401
Ultra Cool-Medium Duty $49.99
3/4" X 7-1/2" X 12-3/4"
Does not require fiting kit
Part#HOC403
Ultra Cool-Heavy duty $ 64.99
3/4" X 7-1/2" X 15-1/2"
Does not require fiting kit
Part#HOC404</div>
Just get the biggest one that will fit. I found that it is best not to fit it in front of your A/C condensor but off to the side under one of the headlights.
Also, we use the Aeromotive A1000-6. It has a base pressure adjustment of 30-70psi.
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ahh,i seen a guy on tgc remove his right fog light and it it thier,but i wanna keep my factory fogs,but thiers alot space behide it ill get them to ancor it back thier,or does it need to be placed where contsant cool air flows?
the biggest one they carry is the HOC404 price 65.00 and rippmods sells the Flex-Alite brand for 75.00 and i know that fits, but i will return the one i got today then, and go ahead with the Flex a lite or untrla cool...Is ultra cool a good brand to depend on?
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>ahh,i seen a guy on tgc remove his right fog light and it it thier,but i wanna keep my factory fogs,but thiers alot space behide it ill get them to ancor it back thier,or does it need to be placed where contsant cool air flows?
the biggest one they carry is the HOC404 price 65.00 and rippmods sells the Flex-Alite brand for 75.00 and i know that fits, but i will return the one i got today then, and go ahead with the Flex a lite or untrla cool...Is ultra cool a good brand to depend on?</div>
Six of one, half dozen of another when it comes to tranny coolers. No matter what brand I've installed they all really seem to be the same quality. Unless your using a Setrab cooler or something from Perma-Cool.
Check this website out, it should help you answer a lot of questions:
http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/coolers.html
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good luck w/ keeping your foglights at all.
charge pipes tend to get in the way.
i sadly had to ditch mine for my short route piping.
so if you think about it, at night, i can go faster and see less.
guess i better hope Bambi stays off the backroads.
you can always get a set of micro-projector foglights
with all that said, prepere to be able to mount your tranny cooler on one side, then your engine oil cooler on the other.
how nice is that. a little symetry amongst fluid coolers
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>ahh,i seen a guy on tgc remove his right fog light and it it thier,but i wanna keep my factory fogs,but thiers alot space behide it ill get them to ancor it back thier,or does it need to be placed where contsant cool air flows?
the biggest one they carry is the HOC404 price 65.00 and rippmods sells the Flex-Alite brand for 75.00 and i know that fits, but i will return the one i got today then, and go ahead with the Flex a lite or untrla cool...Is ultra cool a good brand to depend on?</div>
two things.
first, to save you some money on doing the stainless lines, you dont need to worry about trying to tap threads into the rail and possibly messing it up. slowboyracing.com and lancershop.com both sell adaptors that bolt to the fuel rail which let u use AN fittings. they are sold for an evo, the evo fuel rail is the same as the 8g rail so they will work. problem with tapping the stock rail is that its a cast piece, very prone to cracking, plus the AN fitting is almost as big as the rail so the metal on the edges gets really thin.
second, its going to be impossible to put an FMIC in that car without removing the fogs. i tried, i tried twice, i bought a 2nd bumper just to try it again, its not possible. only way your gonna pull it off is if your intercooler is less then 2.5" thick and the pipes are 2" or less, and to make a setup like that your going to limit your intercooler performance just to keep fogs, its kinda silly since your doing a performance mod. just an idea, to save you some space, you may want to "counter sink" your intercooler into your crash bar. this way you save space and if you were ever in a minor fender bender your intercooler might make it out alive. if you need pics of what im talking about let me know, i took some pics of how i fit the intercooler and pipes.
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ok i bought the,Ultra Cool-Heavy duty $ 64.99 and returned the one posted earlyier, guess no fogs for me then i have those little piaa's maybe i can get those to fit since thier tiny we'll see, thanks stewi for the pic,it give me a better understand of space n clearnce...
i went to slowbro site and i see this for fiting..i guess i want input if its the correct part???
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=2181
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>ok i bought the,Ultra Cool-Heavy duty $ 64.99 and returned the one posted earlyier, guess no fogs for me then i have those little piaa's maybe i can get those to fit since thier tiny we'll see, thanks stewi for the pic,it give me a better understand of space n clearnce...
i went to slowbro site and i see this for fiting..i guess i want input if its the correct part???
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=2181</div>
yep thats it.
get the oulet fitting. thats the one you want.
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ight great,ill order it 1st thing in the morning,so i just bolt this on my factory fuelline,or like stewi said get an evo one? and doch u mentioned engine oil cooler?? i would need that also?? i can pick that up from a pepboys also?
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you bolt that fitting to the outlet on your rail. you run a stainless line from the fitting the the FPR. the other side of the FPR you use a block off plate. and the bottom of the FPR you put your fuel return line that goes back to the tank. on top of the FPR you put your vacuum line.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>at this time i would like to point to this good fpr tutorial over on galantspeed</div>
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yeah and if you want to save money, you don't even need stainless line. it looks nice, but the hydraulic shop has high pressure soft line that will do the job quite nicely for years to come.
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Ya im checking the hydraulic shop tommow,but is their a specific length I would need? or a way i could find out how much i would need?
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measure from your fuel rail to proposed fpr location, then a little extra for the return line
