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Only been working on it for about 5 months...been buying parts for well over a year now.
Nothing really new to report. Matta and I are still fabricating various pipes. I'm happy to report that the collector pipes are now properly mounted. That alone took atleast a dozen seperate modifications. Also the downpipe is basicly completed. Now were working on the FMIC piping.
At this point the biggest roadblock is lack of funds. Piping isn't exactly cheap (atleast for someone who's living on $400 a month). So I'm buying it all in small quantities. Now consider that with the fact that both Matt and I are learning how to weld as were making the pipes...most people learn on spare metal.
Either way July 27th [MOD06], all or nothing.
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July 27th came and went.
Today 07-18-06 is the day that my turbo came to life.
After TWO weeks of non-stop work with several friends, <span style='font-size:30pt;line-height:100%'>today the turbo began to spool for the first time. </span>
It makes an unbelievable sound with no filter (just a MAF stuck on the end of it).
Now I need to get it the idle to stable out.
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congrats!!
two choices though.
pics or ban
its entirely up to you.
vids woudl be nice as well.
don't you tease me damnit :wink:
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>congrats!!
two choices though.
pics or ban
its entirely up to you.
vids woudl be nice as well.
don't you tease me damnit :wink:</div>
lol cosigned
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jet Black)</div><div class='quotemain'>July 27th came and went.
Today 07-18-06 is the day that my turbo came to life.
After TWO weeks of non-stop work with several friends, <span style='font-size:30pt;line-height:100%'>today the turbo began to spool for the first time. Â*</span>
It makes an unbelievable sound with no filter (just a MAF stuck on the end of it).
Now I need to get it the idle to stable out.</div>
If by today you mean 8-18-2006, then yes, today is the day.
What size injectors are you using again? What kind of idle? High idle, no idle, rough idle? Boost leaks are miostly the cause of no idles.
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its a shame for you to of come so far just to get banned on a nice nday like today.
don't cut yourself short.
post some pics/ vids.
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We went out to make the video.
The oil return line barb fitting broke.
The oil feed setup worked flawlessly. It pumped all of the oil out of the motor. Drove for a mile before realizing there was no oil in the motor.
...damn this sucks.
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damn this thread has nearly 10,000 views!
dude that sucsk!!
what kind of return fitting did you use?
how do you know you were completely out of oil?
did you shut it off the second you saw the oil pressure warning light?
do you have an oil pressure gauge?
have you fixed the issue yet?
OMG
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dude wth. i'm coming down tommorow with the compression tester....i better see a case of oil and a new filter sitting nearby for the massive 3rd gear pulls we're gonna be doing all night.
and how the hell did the barb fitting break? did it snap off? if so, why? did you cut it down afterall for the clearance issues?
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>dude wth. i'm coming down tommorow with the compression tester....i better see a case of oil and a new filter sitting nearby for the massive 3rd gear pulls we're gonna be doing all night.
and how the hell did the barb fitting break? did it snap off? if so, why? did you cut it down afterall for the clearance issues?</div>
clearance issues huh?
was there an interference issue with the fitting and a crossmember or frame part?
did you account for the torque of the motor causing the engine to move around?
especially the torque of a turbo v6?
i need to know whats up!!
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'>dude wth. i'm coming down tommorow with the compression tester....i better see a case of oil and a new filter sitting nearby for the massive 3rd gear pulls we're gonna be doing all night.
and how the hell did the barb fitting break? did it snap off? if so, why? did you cut it down afterall for the clearance issues?</div>
clearance issues huh?
was there an interference issue with the fitting and a crossmember or frame part?
did you account for the torque of the motor causing the engine to move around?
especially the torque of a turbo v6?
i need to know whats up!!</div>
me too, i'm going down there today to beat some answers out of that kid. the barb fitting was coming into contact with the.....manifold? i think? shit i forgot what it was hitting....i want to say the crossmember but i dont think that's right
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The fitting that broke was a simple barb fitting. I had cut the original fitting at a 45* angle, and JB Welded it back together to accommodate its position behind the alternator. The mistake I had made was letting the drain hang down below the cross member. Somewhere along our trip the drain probably got caught on something in the ground and instead of tearing, it broke at the weakest link...the JB welded barb fitting.
About a mile from my house the oil light came on. I though it was due to faulty wiring on my part and paid it no head. In retrospect this was plain retarded considering that the oil sender unit is nothing more than a positive wire. As such "faulty wiring" the sender unit would simply result in no oil light illuminating.
So I drove it for another mile at around 1500 RPM.
Dropped the oil pan last night. Didn't see any metal shavings yet.
We'll see what the compression results are.
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Congrats on getting her running - and good luck with the engine!
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Well we (Matt, Ash, I) have some great news. The engine is not in fact blown. We did the compression test and it came back excellent...sorta.
180 psi is what the stock compression is at.
The results came back (1-6):
180 | 190 | 190 | 200 | 200 | 210
The cylinder closest to the fuel feed had the highest compression, and it went down from there. When we pulled the spark plugs they were coated thick with carbon deposits. Needless to say the car was running pig-fucking rich.
I'm done with the low-impidence injectors. I'm going to reinstall the 210cc to atleast get it running right. Matt is going to be letting me borrow his wideband to make sure I'm not going to lean out too much.
As for extra fuel. I've decided that I'm for sure going to use a setup similiar to RIPP's. That is place a large injector(s) somewhere in the intake tract and go from there.
Anyways, tommorow the turbo goes back in.
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Sweet, let the boosting saga continue!
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jet Black)</div><div class='quotemain'>Well we (Matt, Ash, I) have some great news. Â*The engine is not in fact blown. Â*We did the compression test and it came back excellent...sorta.
180 psi is what the stock compression is at.
The results came back (1-6):
180 | 190 | 190 | 200 | 200 | 210
The cylinder closest to the fuel feed had the highest compression, and it went down from there. Â*When we pulled the spark plugs they were coated thick with carbon deposits. Â*Needless to say the car was running pig-fucking rich.
I'm done with the low-impidence injectors. Â*I'm going to reinstall the 210cc to atleast get it running right. Â*Matt is going to be letting me borrow his wideband to make sure I'm not going to lean out too much. Â*
As for extra fuel. Â*I've decided that I'm for sure going to use a setup similiar to RIPP's. Â*That is place a large injector(s) somewhere in the intake tract and go from there.
Anyways, tommorow the turbo goes back in.</div>
you won't know for sure if your are good until you drive around at wot w/o boost a few times.
jut cause yrou rings are gold doesn't mean you didn't damage any of your many many bearings.
i'm sure everything will be fine though
i'm so not for auxillary fuel injector suppliments.
direct port fuel injection is the way to go man.
what are you using to tun ewith?
i mean how can you knock yoru fuel injectors after 1/2 a day of driving lol.
tunign takes time to get it right.
you'll get it.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>you won't know for sure if your are good until you drive around at wot w/o boost a few times.
jut cause yrou rings are gold doesn't mean you didn't damage any of your many many bearings.
i'm sure everything will be fine though
i'm so not for auxillary fuel injector suppliments.
direct port fuel injection is the way to go man.
what are you using to tun ewith?
i mean how can you knock yoru fuel injectors after 1/2 a day of driving lol.
tunign takes time to get it right.
you'll get it.</div>
Good point about the main bearings. I'm actually surpised that my cylinders held such good compression (asides from the carbon deposits) at a hair under 120k.
I'm using the Emanage Blue to tune. Over the last 3 days, I've done just about everything I can think of to get these low impedance injectors to work. I started the turbo install by installing the injectors first. With the stock exhaust and the emanage injector correction, the car would barely idle. It ran as well as a car without a MAF. I reinstalled the resistors three seperate times. Each time I switched the wires they were spliced into. The last time I switched back the resistors, I decided to install the turbo as well, believing that they were bound to work (they were spliced into the positive wire - I checked resistance, and voltage - both came back perfect). Still a terrible idle, sputtering, hesitation, random shutdowns, ect ect.
At this point I'm switching back to the stock injectors to see if I can eliminate a few possibilities (i.e. fpr, pump). I'll also recheck the emanage MAF wiring (the injector correction is applied by modifying the MAF voltage - fuel can be added by increasing the IPW directly to the injectors).
One possibilitie maybe the pump. I was going to install it after I installed the injectors, and got the car to idle. I figured the stock pump can maintain a base idle pressure. Though I'm now wondering if thats true.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jet Black)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>you won't know for sure if your are good until you drive around at wot w/o boost a few times.
jut cause yrou rings are gold doesn't mean you didn't damage any of your many many bearings.
i'm sure everything will be fine though
i'm so not for auxillary fuel injector suppliments.
direct port fuel injection is the way to go man.
what are you using to tun ewith?
i mean how can you knock yoru fuel injectors after 1/2 a day of driving lol.
tunign takes time to get it right.
you'll get it.</div>
Good point about the main bearings. I'm actually surpised that my cylinders held such good compression (asides from the carbon deposits) at a hair under 120k.
I'm using the Emanage Blue to tune. Over the last 3 days, I've done just about everything I can think of to get these low impedance injectors to work. I started the turbo install by installing the injectors first. With the stock exhaust and the emanage injector correction, the car would barely idle. It ran as well as a car without a MAF. I reinstalled the resistors three seperate times. Each time I switched the wires they were spliced into. The last time I switched back the resistors, I decided to install the turbo as well, believing that they were bound to work (they were spliced into the positive wire - I checked resistance, and voltage - both came back perfect). Still a terrible idle, sputtering, hesitation, random shutdowns, ect ect.
At this point I'm switching back to the stock injectors to see if I can eliminate a few possibilities (i.e. fpr, pump). I'll also recheck the emanage MAF wiring (the injector correction is applied by modifying the MAF voltage - fuel can be added by increasing the IPW directly to the injectors).
One possibilitie maybe the pump. I was going to install it after I installed the injectors, and got the car to idle. I figured the stock pump can maintain a base idle pressure. Though I'm now wondering if thats true.</div>
what fuel pressure are you running?
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No idea. :oops:
I'm going to have to borrow Matts AFPR.