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Cool.
got the bags/struts out today which was fun considering there is no way to get to that bolt that holds them on the bottom with anything other than a ratchet...and when you put any torque on it to break it loose the whole damn assembly moves...ended up putting the jack under the hub so it wouldn't move. also got the drivers control arm out, passenger's has to be cut of course cuz the bolt is rusted in tight...battery on the sawsall died before I could get it out...should be getting everything put back in on the 26th, gotta wait for the bags to get here from cali =/
Laid a bit more fiberglass today since I was able to get more resin earlier...not much else I can do without getting it on the car...but thankfully I should be putting the bags/control arms back in on Christmas Day =D
Pending the arrival of my parts of course...
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...fef65e532c.jpg
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New bags:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...f3213a8502.jpg
Compared to old:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...235e24fe5c.jpg
Control arms and bags in:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...96b6025d08.jpg
And the newest addition, getting bolts tomorrow to do the shortest throw option:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...0f87143787.jpg
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Nice dood.
looks good
Was having issues with the cable on the passenger side jumping out going into 2nd and 4th so I hot glued it down...hopefully that'll hold it in place because I don't want to use anything stronger so it's still easily removable.
Got the car back on the ground and my buddy at dodge is gonna help me run an alignment tonight once they close =D
Next step is to find some new tires for the 17's that are a little narrower so I can get those back on!
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Sneak peek at grill idea
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...caf69acb31.jpg
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WarmSCSI spent over $50k IIRC trying to get the supercharger 6G72 to work. He went through multiple engines blowing and numerous headaches. I believe he finally went turbo and never looked back. I remember because I was here to see it all, IMO don't even waste your time with it. Go turbo if you want to keep your 6G72, or do the 6G75 swap. You'll be happier in the end.
What's the issues with running 5psi...I'm not trying to be the fastest, hell I'm not even trying to be fast. I just want to get it in and make it work, even if the performance gains aren't "worth it" or the most optimal for the money. To me it's more about saying "I have this and I did it"
I want something I can play around with from time to time and work on in a few years. If I start getting the itch for a serious build it would be a 4cyl turbo setup...possibly AWD swap and a lot of fab for a 2 door...idk
I just can't see what the issues with the sds are that are so crazy you can't have a modest setup. The air coming in is going to be the same if it's from a supercharger or a turbo, so the engine is a constant variable. Only difference is how you make the boost as far as I see...sds will have the parasitic loss as Justin talked about but also "no" lag...
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If everything goes right I should be doing the ported lower 72 mani and ported upper 74 with the ported/rebuilt 74 TB this weekend =D
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Say ported one more time !!! i dare you i double dare u mutherfukker XD
They are lol justin gave em a real good work over XD actually look real nice and you can def tell where he widened everything up a bit
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^sweet, show us some pics for now, don't tease us
What a tease!
Ight here ya go...everything before she went under the knife at around 11:00:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...66e89f5a10.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...d3b51c34ca.jpg
Upper out at 12:00:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...58d222f35c.jpg
Comparing the throttle bodies:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...c4fa9eb52b.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...dae997da6a.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...84e8ce46e8.jpg
(Will get a more precise measurement before the new one goes in)
Lower out at 12:15:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...20ab4bc9a2.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...13cecfa307.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...e1f5ce0151.jpg
And the lower back in just in time for lunch:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...912c386136.jpg
(Yes I took all the tape off before putting it in, left the top on to prevent contamination)
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http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...6ef78eeeb8.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...cd228818b6.jpg
Still not the best but couldn't find the micrometer...anyway, you can see there is a big difference though. Here is the upper:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...34b06bddb5.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...826347b6c5.jpg
And my fab job for the egr:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...fb4e3d0140.jpg
Last but not least:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...4848e1698a.jpg
^makes me want to go back to a chrome intake though :/
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i just noticed that ure runnin 2 batterys... why?
Because I have a 5000watt system and 2 air compressors...I have a high amp alternator that does the job just fine but if I ever need a little extra juice for the subs when cruising around (say the headlights, AC, air compressors, etc are all on) then I have it.
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I also run two batteries for the same reason. Where did you get your alternator? You have a link?
It's a powermaxusa one, 180 amp iirc that I got off of eBay last year
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Right on. Thanks.
You should really think about switch to yellow tops. Red tops are not deep cycle for high demand applications. Really they're just regular starting batteries in gel form.
Nooooooo...the "hype" over using deep cycle batteries for audio is all wrong. I did a big explanation somewhere but the short basics are this:
A deep cycle absolutely has to be cycled 12.6->0->12.6 in order to prolong it's life. If you don't cycle it you actually harm the battery (unless it's lithium ion). I never, repeat never, use anything with the vehicle off thus almost all the time I am running off the alternator anyway. The only time my batteries are used would be with very very very high amp draw. So compare the subs, a very high amp draw for a short amount of time, on purely an electrical level to...a starter! They follow the same electrical "pattern" more or less...one quick high amp load
All the nonsense over deep cycles is for using audio with the car off OR alternators that don't keep up...I am neither.
If I did anything it would be switching to blue tops, yes the marine ones, because they are starting batteries that are able to be cycled...
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Makes sense if you dont run your audio with engine off. And I was gonna say blue too but left it at yellow.
I have blue top. Same blue top since 08? Fricken love it
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I was thinking about them but they were a little more than the reds and just out of my budget :/
Think I may try to sell the reds, do a trunk mount for 2 blue tops...only issue with that is the batteries would go next to my air compressors and I'm wondering if the heat from them would damage the batteries
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Using two blue tops since 06 and haven't had any issues.
And still running strong.
Oh yeah...hadn't thought about that XD
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Why 2? I can run my sound system for like a good 8 hrs blaribg with one
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Because my system is 3-4000w RMS on top of all that other stuff mentioned earlier...
I have a solenoid to disconnect one of them so it's not always running 2
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Your battery set up is pretty sweet, not gonna lie. Did you ever get the tie down for the second battery cleaned up, I think that was all that needed any attention because the wiring looked nice!
I know true deep cycles don't like staying charged all the time, but I'm not so sure the Optima Yellow top isn't the same as a marine. I mean the one in my Volvo came out of a rig I had a winch on, so it got used for that, but now in the Volvo its just a starting battery and I haven't had any issue's out of it. Again, I may be wrong, but I think I remember something that they where designed as a deep cycle starting instead of just a deep cycle.
No, I haven't done anything to it yet :/ what I've been thinking is leaving a red top in the front and moving the other to the trunk BUT I am also considering redoing my entire sub setup so basically right now I'm at a total standstill on the electrical project...it works, and works well, so I'm not gonna dick with it for now...plus it takes FOREVER to rerun all the damn wires if I do make a change :(
There are 2 types of blue top iirc, dark grey and light grey case. Dark grey is the one I wanted but don't remember why (this was all like 1.5years ago) but I think those are the deep cycle starting...may be wrong though idk...and iirc from what Dell/Elder always used to say a deep cycle will work for a while without any issues but it shaves years off the end of it's life. So if optimas are good for 10 years and you use a yellow as a starting for the entire life maybe it lasts 8 or 9, but it's still gonna last a while...the are different than trying to cycle a starting battery; that will kill it in like 10 cycles
Thanks btw
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I've been having an issue since I did the manifolds with running extremely lean and idling very poorly...we determined it was probably something to do with the EGR system and sounded like it was just getting stuck wide open at idle (car ran fine and normal under throttle). Went out and swapped the EGR valve out for a different one and cut a little more off the bracket that was right there; I think it was resting on it and causing issues too. Now she is back to normal =D next step is to look into the IAC stuff because I have never had a perfect idle before :/
Massive shoutout to M-Rod for helping me out with this, dude pinned the problem right off the bat and provided me with some pointers too
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Again, I know the issue with regular deep cycles, but I want to say optima kind of anticipated the yellow top being misused and had the deep cycle marine starting battery the same as a yellow top, I can't find anywhere that says that, but I remember it vividly for some reason. You want the dark grey cased one because it has the post terminals as well as the threaded studs, as opposed to just the threaded studs.
If you are ever back this way I could make you a sweet battery tray to even mount it under the frame rail to at least make changing that headlight easier. I've got a press brake and a company that does waterjet, so we could make it look a lot like the one in my car.
You may be right, I didn't dig too much into the yellow tops...and i want to get back down there around summer time, if I do I will def hook up with you!
I thought yours was mounted where my second one is, only a tiny battery instead?
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It was there for awhile, but I got that box built and over the trans using the mounts for the factory battery tray, only at like 1/20th of the weight. Pretty sure I had that done when we swapped your gearbox. Hopefully when you come down we can play around with your suspension a little and see if we can make it perform better with the airbags so you don't get so much toe change as the suspension height changes.
My buddy and I just did an alignment a week ago to get everything close but I still need to tweak it a little...I will put up the after printout if I remember later but here is the before:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...73b82979d9.jpg
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http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...55ece41c6c.jpg
Here is the after...couldnt get the front camber adjustment broke loose so we left them alone...I want to adjust everything again for drivability because it's a little "jumpy" right now but at least everything is in spec now
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