:icon_biggrin: You're from Kansas, eh ^^? I work in Lenexa :icon_biggrin:
Love the build!!! Good luck with the setup! Looks like a lot of work from this end.
I happen to fancy myself with the ol' turbo and AWD :icon_twisted:
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:icon_biggrin: You're from Kansas, eh ^^? I work in Lenexa :icon_biggrin:
Love the build!!! Good luck with the setup! Looks like a lot of work from this end.
I happen to fancy myself with the ol' turbo and AWD :icon_twisted:
PogiGreg, you can do the harness rewire however you want. If you use the full 1g harness you'll need to use the 1g fuse box as well as a few other components. I think it is easier to just rewire the stock harness. But then I didn't get it working right so maybe you're better off not listening to me ;)
I have one small resonator in the exhaust. I eliminated a second one for space but still have it around if I need to add it back in.Quote:
Originally Posted by DOHCstunr
I, like many others have just now nticed this thread! AMAZING JOB! It makes me feel ambitious and want to all sorts of crazy shit. Then I remember I dont have the skill or tools so...i'll live vicariously through you! LOL
We want sound clips and videos as soon as possible! Congrats on being the first (I think) 7G AWD in the states! 7G FTMFW
You have done a great job with this build man, it is good to see another Colorado Galant owner on here too! I am curious where you picked up that intercooler from? We sell those here at my work for the Ford IDI Diesel Intercooler upgrade package and it looks practially identical to what we have here.
he is the first USDM 7G to be AWDQuote:
Originally Posted by evil-G-nius
Awsome conversion!
My concern is how close parts of the drivetrain is close to the exhaust. Alot of things move around in the drivetrain and exhaust when driving...even more under heavy load.
Either or..great work on getting the 7g AWD. Very excited to see this beast put power on 4 wheels. :cool:
Do you know of any 7G VR4 imported? If not...why is this any different from what I said? Or were you just confirming what I said?Quote:
Originally Posted by kolio
I think he was just confirming I'm the first AWD 7g in the US. I'll have to get it done and send off some pics to a tuner mag to see if I can get it in ;)
The exhaust has been altered a bit in comparison to those photos. I just need to grind one area and it should clear quite nicely. I'll also be checking it regularly to see if it rubs after I get the car moving.
Right now I'm stuck out on Kauai snorkeling and running around beaches and tropical rain forests with my wife and parents. I'll get back to the car around the 20th.
polyurethane exhaust hangers also help keep exhaust movement in check.
mine exhaust is hung entirely by poly hangers from downpipe to tip. it doesn't budge.
rumor was there is one or two somewhere. thats why i just added the USDMQuote:
Originally Posted by evil-G-nius
^ Rumor or not I'm driving one right the hell now....
we know that.Quote:
Originally Posted by hk20000
there is suposedly one in texas and another near the west coast
I found a JDM VR4 on cardomain.... I messaged him but he hasn't replied.
Well I'm back from Hawaii and spent a little time on the wiring this morning. I found my mistake in the starter wires and got that resolved. The car cranks over with the keys now. As I'm cranking I'm getting injector duty cycles and all my other signals. I'm still getting odd readings from the throttle position sensor. I'm starting at 7% and going up to 47% at full throttle. I'll have to have someone press on the pedal while I'm under the hood to see if it is mechanical or if the sensor is screwy. I'm betting on the former as the Talon ran fine with this TPS. There will be more to come later in the week as I have some days off.
welcome back... good to hear about finding the errors. Can't wait to hear more about the project and how it drives :)
Well I spent some time on diagnostics this morning. Turns out the fuel pump isn't turning on. I can artificially jump the relay and get fuel going but even if I'm doing that and cranking the car simply won't fire. Looking at the ECU readings it says it is getting data from all the sensors and sending a signal to the injectors. I've tried switching the spark plug wires around and rotating the CAS 180 to see if that was off and all combinations of that with no results. Once it seemed like the car tried to light up but I couldn't replicate it. It could have been flooded but I can't say for sure.
So now I'm reading up on the wiring and confused as hell about the fuel pump issue. Pin 8 of the Galant ECU triggers the MPI relay for the fuel pump. I rerouted that to pin 56 of the DSM which does the same thing in a 1g yet there is no fuel. Unfortunately I don't have a way to test my ECU since I don't have a stock chip to install and test it in my buddy's 1g.
DOHCstunr if you've got any of your wiring info handy I'd love to compare notes to make sure I didn't screw something up.
EDIT: UPDATE! The car will fire up now but won't stay running. If I leave the starter engaged it'll run for a bit longer but then dies shortly after I let off the key. My bet is that I have a power issue with the ECU. I'll double check all the power supplies and see where I wind up. Those first few exhaust notes sounded like angels singing!
hmm if its not a wiring issue it could be the timing as thats wut it was on my buddies 89 gt when i had this issue with his car
Nah, my logger is losing its signal when the car dies. The ECU is losing power. I was messing with the timing while I was under the hood and it didn't make much difference.
what rom are you running? Are you running a jackal rom, or a stock MAS image?
As far as wiring goes, I literally just matched up the two ecu pinouts and switched the required wires.
I didn't have to come up with anything fancy or complicated. I just kept it simple.
Mine started right up from day one.
It seems to me that you might possibly have some wires that are out of place.
I hope you tagged and labelled every single wire.
It makes it a LOT easier to check yoru wires, as well as wire in any peripherals down the road.
I am running Jackal with all the sensors in place and functioning properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by DOHCstunr
I did leave all my wires tagged so that'll make tracking down my wiring slipup easier. I am sure it is just a power issue I created by pulling so many other wires out when I eliminated the A/T components. I'll dig through this morning and see what I can come up with.Quote:
As far as wiring goes, I literally just matched up the two ecu pinouts and switched the required wires.
I didn't have to come up with anything fancy or complicated. I just kept it simple.
Mine started right up from day one.
It seems to me that you might possibly have some wires that are out of place.
I hope you tagged and labelled every single wire.
It makes it a LOT easier to check yoru wires, as well as wire in any peripherals down the road.
yeah I had the benifit of being both manual, and already equipped with distributorless and knock sensor equipped in my facktory harness.
so i literally didn't have to add any wires.
you have the resistor pack wired into the injectors correct?
Yup, the resistor pack is in there. I actually just pulled the whole wiring harness back out and I'm going over it again. Jeff from Keydiver PMed me on DSMTuners and let me know that pin 13 does need to see voltage from the fuel pump and that I can just send the signal from the MPI relay. I tried a quick fix for that in the car but it didn't make a difference. I'm also still only seeing 2.8v at the TPS which I'm fairly certain should be seeing 5v. So I'm going over all the wires again, cleaning up a few areas and stuffing the harness back in again when I'm done.
Well I went over and tested all the wires, moved the power supply for Pin 110 to IGN1 instead of Start and correctly wired Pin 13, then reinstalled the harness. The car will run a bit longer now that the ECU is getting power consistently but I'm still only getting 2.8v to the TPS and also the MAP sensor. Both of these are powered by Pin 23 of the ECU which should be sending 5v. I checked at the ECU and of course I get the same 2.8v. To me that says I probably have a problem within my ECU, possibly my capacitor replacement gone wrong. I think I'll be sending the ECU out for diagnostics and possible repair tomorrow.
is your tps, iat, map, coolant temp sensor, and um...... i think thats it,
are they grounded to the "sensors ground" pin on the ecu?
You know, I'm not sure. I'd have to dig through the harness again or go do a quick test come morning.
i think that was the only problem I came across other than the cooling fans when I first started up after my swap.
Well I ran out and tested pin 24, the sensor ground and it does not ground out to the chassis. I also tested the ground for the IAT and TPS and they do not ground out to the chassis. Looks like I didn't screw that one up :)
DOHCstunr, which wire did you run your fans off of or did you use a switch? I wired mine to the two wire coolant temp sensor and they came on as soon as the key turned.
i will take a pic and try to draw up a diagram for you tomorrow when I wake up.Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
It might just simply be the ECU, when i was having all my problems with my swap , the car would crank and crank, but never turn over. turned out it was a bad ecu. Does your check engine light come on before you ever try to crank it? it should come on and then turn off after a couple of seconds if you put it into the accessory switch. if it never comes on, then you have a bad ecu.
You're doing a lot of the same things i did, rig the fuel pump, pull the harness, screw with the timing and injectors.
you'r basically using a 1g engine with a 1g ecu, so the Magnus 1g in a 2g setup won't apply.
If it's not the Ecu, do you have any boost leaks, the car won't stay running if you have a huge leak, or don't have everything hooked up.
He's running the same ECU I am. Speed Density via DS-MAP/ Jackal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Ice
No mas, and leaks have zero effect on a/f ratio.
From what I read, he is using the same ecu that was working flawlessly in his Talon before he bought the galant.
Nope, the ECU that was in my 1g Talon went with it. I have a flawless 2g EPROM ECU from the 95 donor that I'm selling. The 1g EPROM ECU that was in the Galant and is now out to be repaired came out of the junkyard the same time as the Galant. It is untested and may very well be the problem. I should find out sometime this week.
Thanks again for all the help and input guys, it makes a big difference.
Well I got some info back on my ECU from Steve on DSM Tuners. He says that he's seeing +5v from pin 23 when he bench tests the ECU. He also says the corrosion on the board is very bad so it will take a lot of cleaning (read $150 repair bill). Thankfully I just sold my 2g EPROM ECU so that'll pay for my 1g ecu repair.
That also tells me I have some sort of wiring issue. Thankfully I did find a useful article on automotive electrical diagnostics this morning. I'll do what I can without the ECU here and see what else I can find when it gets back.
Well I got some more work done today. I started out by checking the voltages and grounds going to the ECU connectors. Everything looked golden so I went ahead and pulled the harness out again. I can pull it in less than five minutes now.
I laid the harness out on my garage floor and began by testing for connections to pin 23, the +5v sensor supply. Thanks to some reused Galant components I wired the ISC motor power supply to pin 23 instead of a 12v supply from the MPI relay like I should have. So I fixed that and checked all my sensor grounds to make sure they were only going to ECU pin 24 and checked the resistance on the wires. After that I improved the grounding to the CAS and coils and moved a few wires around to make the harness neater inside the bay. Now it is back in and should be ready to test as soon as my ECU gets back to me in the mail.
Minor update with video. This site won't let me embed it, or I just can't figure out how, so just follow the link.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...h_MOV09649.jpg
Oh and I hooked the transmission cooler in as the power steering cooler too. I also ground down the exhaust flange to clear the drive shaft and worked on the rear brakes. Unfortunately I'm going to have to go get some rebuilt rear calipers as the bleeders just won't come out.
Excellent Nick!
glad to see you got her running again. so is your block basically stock?
if it is,
I'd like to be able to compare our tables once you get back to tuning. Undoubtedly our v.e. will be different, but they ought to have similarities that should give us clues to getting out tunes on point.
GREAT WORK! now we need some vids of wheels spinning!
As far as I know the block is stock. The donor came with a E3 manifold and 16G setup so that is what is on it now. I reused my FIC 780cc injectors. I'll have to do a fair amount of retuning since I bumped up in compression and have a slightly bigger turbo than my old s16g. Unfortunately I couldn't tell what fuel pump I got in the deal as there were no visible markings on it. :orangeconfused: Not knowing how much fuel I can push should make tuning interesting. :102::063:Quote:
Originally Posted by DOHCstunr
I promise I'll get video of it driving once I get the car registered. That'll have to wait until the new brakes are on, new windshield is in, a fuel line issue is fixed and the interior is detailed and reassembled. In short, it'll be a while. I"ll be thrilled if it is on the road this month.Quote:
Originally Posted by kolio
wow im just speachless and EXTREAMLY jelous.......
That's awesome Nick. I wish I could see it in person.
Definitely an awesome job on the conversion. Massive props. Not the first though. There's myself and I've heard of one more somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by kolio