it is 135 cm. It is thick from the iside. It is galvanized steel. It could be replaced easily if it fails. Im trying to get the car running at the first place. Thanks a lot everyone. Wish me best luck
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LOL, we're not trying to be haters, it is a great build. We just want you to be safe. When a drive shaft goes out it can be very dangerous. I was lucky mine didn't hit the gas tank or get under a tire to spin or flip my car. Mine bounced and lodged between the car body and the exhaust. It beat the hell out of the unibody in the process, leaving a big dent in the passenger front floor pan. It struck right at the corner where the steel was strongest too so there was a lot of force behind that hit.
Wall thickness is much less important than drive shaft diameter vs. length. A quick Google search for driveshaft calculator pulled up this one:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm
With a 53 inch shaft at 2.5 inch diameter you'll handle plenty of torque. The problem is the critical speed. I don't have the calculations lying around for what our drive shafts spin at but I know that it was up around 5-6K rpms at 65-70 mph. If you drive at or above the critical speed of a driveshaft for long harmonics can cause it to start wiggling and tear it apart. They have some pretty good explanations on the site. To calculate your drive shaft speed you need your tire diameter and rear gear ratio. I'm sure you can get that stuff off the web quickly too.
My advice is when you have it running, you bring it to me to test...permanently... :)
I've decided to temporary keep the current drive shaft.
Since this engine has HKS 272 Cam, Siemens 650cc Injectors, Brian Crower Valves/Springs, ...
It must be tuned b4 so we can run it safely.
For now, I will start with Idle tuning.
Heading to the Tuning Shop
AEM EMU Seriers 2
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4069_large.jpg
AEM Boost Solenoid
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4066_large.jpg
AEM 3.5 Bar MAP Sensor
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4067_large.jpg
AEM O2 Sensor
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4068_large.jpg
AEM All-in-one Gauge
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4065_large.jpg
To be continued
Good choice with the AEM. When you setup your boost settings using the boost solenoid make sure you tune the boost controller settings on the street. From my experiences it's more accurate than the dyno since the dyno can never duplicate driving loads exactly as they are during real driving
Damm i want to see thar car runing now!!!
I'm drooling
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Wow this is gonna be sexy :D
Car went out of the garage today at last
Check http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-RCyOJTmDc
It is a real RWD Galant
as ( Stewi ) said b4, Im gonna say: First 8g RWD swap. Completed.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...4070_large.jpg
Congrats!! That was fast work, incredible stuff man.
Incredible what these guys are doing with these Galants lately.
Congrats man!!
Nice!!!
What did you do for the front hubs? Are they still the AWD hubs and you just removed the axles?
AWEsome!
Love it! Congrats man, sounds like a success to me.
Congrats man. It's really sick. You should upload a couple more vids on youtube!!!