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Well, my setup is pretty low-tech getto fab/lazy - I just hooked the positive lead onto the OEM battery clamp, and wrapped it in a bunch of electrical tape, leaving a small bit exposed in case I need to use jumper cables:
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5...03793fr.th.jpg
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/4...03808qw.th.jpg
I really wanted the Braille to work in my car as it was the cleanest setup, but alas, it didn't work for me.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wanderingpinoy)</div><div class='quotemain'>Well, my setup is pretty low-tech getto fab/lazy - I just hooked the positive lead onto the OEM battery clamp, and wrapped it in a bunch of electrical tape, leaving a small bit exposed in case I need to use jumper cables:
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5...03793fr.th.jpg
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/4...03808qw.th.jpg
I really wanted the Braille to work in my car as it was the cleanest setup, but alas, it didn't work for me.</div>
what about the negative cable that used to be up front, you just grounded it to the body of the car im guessing? That wire looks a little small, is that 4 gauge? I bought a relocation kit, the sealed aluminim one, and it came with 2 gauge wire but I sold it as I wasnt gonna need it with the mini battery. Im gonna give this mini battery another shot, if it wont hold a charge I guess im back at square 1. I sure could use the room in my engine bay, but I really dont wanna run wiring and drill holes and the kill switch thing, but who knows. Im gonna give this mini battery another shot tomorrow or, its late..... lol...later today
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Stewi)</div><div class='quotemain'>what about the negative cable that used to be up front, you just grounded it to the body of the car im guessing? That wire looks a little small, is that 4 gauge? I bought a relocation kit, the sealed aluminim one, and it came with 2 gauge wire but I sold it as I wasnt gonna need it with the mini battery. Im gonna give this mini battery another shot, if it wont hold a charge I guess im back at square 1. I sure could use the room in my engine bay, but I really dont wanna run wiring and drill holes and the kill switch thing, but who knows. Im gonna give this mini battery another shot tomorrow or, its late..... lol...later today</div>
Its a Taylor kit, and the wire is 2 gauge. The negative cable up front was just removed, and yes, the ground is to the body of the car in the rear. One thing to note, 18ft (what came in the kit for the red positive cable) was just barely long enough - I could have used an extra foot or two.
Ok, so turns out my battery was dead, however I got more problems. My starter wont engage when I turn the key. At first I thought I put the wire on the wrong terminal, so I switched it, and when I switched it and hooked up the battery it started sparking like crazy, so I dont know if the starter itself is bad or if I got a bad relay or something
Damn, Brian. It's one thing after another. I think you better triple check everything in the engine bay before you try starting it again.
Chances are that now the fuse for your starter has blown, along with anything else that runs along that circuit. Check the fuses and wire the starter back the right way and make sure all is correct. Also check the max fuse(the really big ones with the screws holding em down) To see if you popped the fuse for the ignition and or choke. Should be the blue fuse thats there, you can see right thru the glass if its popped or not.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Danger DANJ)</div><div class='quotemain'>Damn, Brian. It's one thing after another. I think you better triple check everything in the engine bay before you try starting it again.</div>
Thats the thing, I did check everything. I bought a new starter today, still nothing. The starter fuse in the engine bay is like a green plastic box with a clear window on top, I have no idea what its supposed to look like, so im not sure if its fried or not. Im waiting on getting a multimeter, i should have my hands on a multimeter in about an hour, then I can really jump on this. The only other thing it can be is the bypass wiring to "trick" the stock ECU into thinking the auto trans is in neutral. The stock ECU and fuse box dont do anything for my motor except operate the starter, the standalone handles everything else.
Ok, it wasnt the stock trans wiring. I "hot wired" the starter and the starter works fine. Now the problem is between the solenoid turn on wire and the ignition switch. I might have a bad ignition switch, more tests to come tomorrow. During all this, my fuel line started leaking again, go figure, I think this car has a hex on it.....
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Stewi)</div><div class='quotemain'>Ok, it wasnt the stock trans wiring. I "hot wired" the starter and the starter works fine. Now the problem is between the solenoid turn on wire and the ignition switch. I might have a bad ignition switch, more tests to come tomorrow. During all this, my fuel line started leaking again, go figure, I think this car has a hex on it.....</div>
me and seth came up with galants/ the mitsu gods don't like 63t motors, and get angry when you do the swap https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif
start causing problems for you
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Stewi)</div><div class='quotemain'>Ok, it wasnt the stock trans wiring. I "hot wired" the starter and the starter works fine. Now the problem is between the solenoid turn on wire and the ignition switch. I might have a bad ignition switch, more tests to come tomorrow. During all this, my fuel line started leaking again, go figure, I think this car has a hex on it.....</div>
me and seth came up with galants/ the mitsu gods don't like 63t motors, and get angry when you do the swap https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif
start causing problems for you</div>
Yes indeed. Any Galant or non 1g/2g T/E/L with a 4g63t automatically gets cursed by the DSM gods. Its just a fact of life :biggrin:
i know one thing is you dont wanna be making shit spark while you have gas leaking.
But look again in the engine bay fusebox, and look at all the glass fuses. If you look thru the glass you can see if the fuse if popped or not, I guarantee that it is tho. At keast the stater and or the ignition is popped.
Been there done that with my 7G. not sure bout the 8 but try it anyway.
OK. So I got a new starter, I got all new fuses and I got a new ignition switch, changed them all and still no luck. I hooked up a multimeter to the battery, I got power at the battery, I got power at the power lead on the starter, however, I DONT have power at the starter solenoid turn on lead, you know, the little slide on plastic connector. No power there at all. Does anyone know if there is some sort of relay in between the ignition switch and the starter?
i dont remember off the top of my head if there is not but i believe it should be direct current?
i had a similar problem when i tried to crank mine months ago....can you take some pics of how you have it wired from the starter to the battery? is your oem fuse box getting power? do you have the cable that goes from the postive terminal on the battery going to the fuse box connected?
Yeah Noel , the power is getting to the fuse box, all my accessories work, fan blower, wipers, gauges, fuel pump etc, all that works. The starter has 3 terminals. Two of the three are large threaded terminals with a nut and the other one is a flat terminal that has a slide on connector. I got the large power cable going to the positive lead on the starter, the other large terminal nothing connects to it, thats the way its always been, and the slide on connector is hooked up. The slide on connector is the starter turn on lead. The starter motor always has constant power, but the turn on wire is actually what makes the solenoid turn on. The turn on wire is the problem, it has no power at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cali
Maybe when he crossed the wrong wires it blew out something other than a fuse, relay maybe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
Ok, this problem has totally gone too far. I have decided to take all the mitsu shit electronics out of the equation. I am converting the car over to a push button engine start. This way I dont need to rely on any of the stock components, or continue to troubleshoot this problem that has already cost way more money then it needed to. I will have my push start kit on friday...
Sorry to hear about all the unneeded money spent but the push button start will be nice.
Oooooh Push Button starts are cool.
This is by far the most interesting thread ever 8)
G-Spot I 2nd that. It's like we have been watch a baby 4G63T grow from a baby to a adult watch all the trials and tribulations on the way. LOL