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Update:
90% of wiring done
Added breaking oil
Added coolant.
Dion and I made a improve tb cable bracket for the outlander mani
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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/ygebedum.jpg lol
Xxx your fingers tomm hope we get to wake her up.
Good Luck!
^thanks bro
OOO I hope all goes well fam! Yall have been on a roll, let's hope this wakes right up!
Looks great, my tb cable bracket look similar to yours ;)
I know you've been busy but I see you haven't gotten to making the tb spacer to make that area boost leak free once the tb shaft seals have also been replaced, you'll see what I'm talking about on your first boost leak test lol
^ yeah i know this is something that i need to look at. I will get it fixed ones she is running. Wont hit crazy boost at breaking.
I hope so too. Let see how she reacts. She is mad at me because i have taken her out in a good minute. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by wetamup2k3g
how much do you think you got lift before you are done so we can see some hp numbers!!!
Engine is done. Now is to troubleshoot some fuel pressure problem. Hope i get her running soon. Tom i will change the fpr and double check the pump.
Looking good.
I got a PM From you but it was blank.
Fingers crossed it's nothing major. I like that Vibrant Distribution block you've got there!
Ha! Isaurio shooting blanks xDQuote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
Ha! Isaurio shooting blanks xD[/QUOTE]
Lmaooof
Ja ja ja. Very funny.
First startup.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...psd2f0ea0d.jpg
First crank and bam started right up. Had a crank signal problem. fixed it and start it like stock..
Mind you the injectors are Precision 1200CC and RPW 272 cam, .024 NGK spark plugs. Crank was money.
Now i have oil pressure problem. Will have to check internal parts now.
LOL was that D talking shit? You guys are funny. Congrats on the startup, fix that oil prob quick bros!
Good job guys. Cant wait to see this at Corona again.
Yep it was me Greg lol a day out of surgery mind you.
Nice! Engine is nice and sound.
^ thanks bro
HAHA just like how I imagined you D lol :)
Good work you guys!
Good work. Did you install oil squiter in the block or you don't need it because of forge piston? I'm getting close to starting my turbo project.
Not need it for forge internals. Internal is all forged
Okey guys. Round 2
Pull out the engine again and doubled checked oil pump. Balance shaft bearings. Everything was by the book.
Now i had a evo 9 oil housing. Not much of a different between the evo 8 it just have the extra 1/4 npt for the oil pressure. I think also the pressure springs are different.
Put the evo 8 housing. Put everything back together and so far after 10 min of running no oil light. I will check pressure with mechanical gauge.
Now i have a supper lean condition need to to check the problem
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Magnetic plug
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that sucks you had to pull the motor, you know i never seen anyone use that port on the filter housing bracket for anything so i dont know if that had anything to do with it. the 1/4" bspt ports are the ones always used for oil feeds or sensors.
you didnt mentioned if you oil primed your motor before you did the timing belt but its a good way to test the oil pump beforoe you drop it in. when brian built my motor we did just that and got no oil surfacing to the head, we pulled the oil pump cover off and opened the actual oil pump gear cover thats on the inside and packed it with vasaline. put it all back together, tried again and bam oil started pouring out the top of the head. the quack machinists that built the rotating assembly warned me this might happen with a new oil pump cover and that its sort of a hit and miss thing and told me exactly what do if it does happen. next oil pump cover i use i will be sure to pack the gears with vasaline before i install it.
another thing most guys change the oil thermostat to a tomei, you get it from extreme psi. its the funny looking brass thing next to where you had your oil feed plumbed into.
what turbo are you running ??
^ yeah. We did not post prime the oil pump. We crank the engine a few times without the crank sensor or the fuel pump. So oil could flow. I guess it was an issue with the evo 9 oil housing. Not too sure. I also prime the oil cooler so it wont take long to fill up with oil. I think that did the trick. I not to sure i will double check pressure with mechanical gauge to see where she at. Oil is coming up the head since i open the oil cap and oil was coming up.
Also i notice. With the mixture of the amsoil breaking oil and the and the engine assembly lube oil got a lil thick. So is twice as hard to flow around the cooler and lines. Making lose pressure
Is a garret 60-1 turbo. I got it to 12psi and 5psi spring rate on tru boost control. Just for break in.
thats another thing, you dont need the oil cooler hooked up for start up. actually its better you dont so you dont contaminate the cooler and lines with assembly lube and and metal shaving from moving parts that are getting to know each other. thats how i did mine, ran it for about 15min let it heat cycle, shut it down drained the oil using a paper towel to sift any shavings out of the oil (really just out of curiousity you dont have to do that part). then re-torque the head studs, filled with cheap penzoil not the baller stuff you got and then ran it for 1k before th dyno.
cleaning the oil cooler and lines out really good would be something you might want to do, maybe even the the turbo feed line and maybe blow some air through the turbo oil passage. im so petro though when it comes to things like this that i would replace the cooler right off the bat, my b&m cooler is only $80 so to me i see it as disposable lol.
Lol. Good ideal. I wi do that. Thanks
So. here is the 2.4L stock Crank fueling. This is great to adjust if you go with bigger injectors. That way PCM/ECU dont OD the fuel at crank. It will help with cold start crank with bigger injectors.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps9c93df14.png
Got this to leave the stock oil pressure switch and add my prosport evo oil pressure behind the block.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps1010adbd.jpg
Nice!
yep that cranking ipw was a pain in the ass to work around when my injector size went up. tuned it out through the maf so I wouldnt be flooding the cylinders when I fired up. good stuff so far man
He is a second start up. Got mechanical gauge and she is reading 60-90 psi behind the block around 1000-1500 rpm
Thats a good sing
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps51d7c62f.jpg
nice strong idle after the car caught itself!
gotta fix the link though. I just copied the link and opened it in a new tab in my browser and it worked.
Um i think is because is private. I will fix it.
Yeah the 1200cc pte injectors are a pain to tune and get it to stay stable. My o2 is maxing out at 25% rich at idle.
I will jump to the 650cc and tune that until i get it to a pro-tuner and fix that 1200cc
But men she sounds strong.
Does she ever! Good stuff bro!Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
Trying to fix the link:
http://vid726.photobucket.com/albums...ps51d7c62f.mp4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
She sounds real good man!
^ thanks bro. She is not even stable. Open headers lol
After patching the leaks and some more injector tuning. Got her running a little longer. Better idle
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps6164cd1a.jpg
Crazy loads at low rpm. The 2.4 87mm could really move some air
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps9e734954.jpg
How come there's so many empty spaces? Shouldn't they be all filled with values?
Not really it depends on the load and rpm is reading. When u do 3rd gear pull it only show the cell the ecu is hitting skip others. Also it depends how long in average it stays active in a given cell.
My cells only shows crank and idle.