$350 4g64 5 speed swap project started

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Originally Posted by white2k3mitsu

I went to the junkyard and pulled a 3g tranny with clutch lines, clutch and break pedals, master / slave cylinder, hard and soft lines, 3 harness pigtails, shifter assembly, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch and clutch fluid reservoir and sonata dohc for 146 and basically other then the dohc (lol) am I missing anything in my parts list for the swap I've done my research and see some posts about maybe using a 3g or evo ecu but I'm not sure if I need it I have a 03 2.4 es also what wiring needs to be done and how hard is it I must admit this is my first time doing anything like this but I was able to take these parts off so I'm pretty sure I can put them back on

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I swapped engines too so I needed a lot more parts. I believe there are multiple threads in the swap...

But as far as I can remember, you'll need the following parts:
-manual transmission
-clutch
-pressure plate
-flywheel
-clutch pedal assembly
-clutch master cylinder
-clutch fluid reservoir
-clutch fluid lines
-shifter assembly
-shifter cables
-throw out bearing

That's everything I can think of. I believe you have to jump the neutral safety switch. No you don't need an eclipse ecu. I'm not sure about the clutch pedal sensors and wiring them in. I had to make my own harnesses

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1a227fc2bb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...43977ba9d1.jpg

Sudden change of plans. The rear sub frame will now be getting replaced before my suspension is complete

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Some quick updates...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8d1cb5adbb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...328804a6d0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9cc219a7b7.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...20e9f33c17.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3b34246793.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...74daf7dc9a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b3c0eba0a0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...006ff03b7e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3fc5505e61.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4793704b1b.jpg

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Nice progress!

Paint the area where u exposed bare metal or else it will rust very quickly.

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Originally Posted by spdracr

Paint the area where u exposed bare metal or else it will rust very quickly.

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Yeah I'll spray it next time it's in the air

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Couple updates from today...
Secured my battery in the trunk
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ab9d9589f0.jpg

Made a brake bleeder adapter to flush the brakes more easily
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1992ba4d8a.jpg

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Originally Posted by amaru7

Couple updates from today...
Secured my battery in the trunk
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ab9d9589f0.jpg

Made a brake bleeder adapter to flush the brakes more easily
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1992ba4d8a.jpg

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What's this homemade bleeder for exactly?

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Originally Posted by spdracr

What's this homemade bleeder for exactly?

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It's a spare brake fluid reservoir cap that I have. It goes onto the reservoir and then a hose from the brake bleeder machine connects to the fitting. The brake bleeder applies pressure to the system so you just open each bleeder screw and fluid comes out. No need to have someone pumping the pedal anymore. Obviously you must use a spare cap because you can't leave the system open because brake fluid is hygroscopic. Normally I use the brake bleeder at a pressure of 2 bar, but our caps are weaker than the typical cap I use, so I'll apply only about .5 bar.

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Originally Posted by amaru7

It's a spare brake fluid reservoir cap that I have. It goes onto the reservoir and then a hose from the brake bleeder machine connects to the fitting. The brake bleeder applies pressure to the system so you just open each bleeder screw and fluid comes out. No need to have someone pumping the pedal anymore. Obviously you must use a spare cap because you can't leave the system open because brake fluid is hygroscopic. Normally I use the brake bleeder at a pressure of 2 bar, but our caps are weaker than the typical cap I use, so I'll apply only about .5 bar.

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Makes sense. I just gravity bleed and works well for me. I did it on both cars with brembos and had no problems. Nifty tool though.

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Originally Posted by spdracr

Makes sense. I just gravity bleed and works well for me. I did it on both cars with brembos and had no problems. Nifty tool though.

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I'll post a picture of it hooked up. It's what we use in the dealership

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My hood needs to be replaced. It's rusted and bent. It looked insanely bad with the clear coat bubbling up all over it, so I did a quick touch up

I ground all the paint and bondo off:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ce7832e0bd.jpg

Quick hand sanding:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...2acde77b49.jpg

Couple coats:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...64e7b9bbc3.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4b3fc177dc.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...7185b9cb7c.jpg

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One ended up not being enough, so I had to install 2 on each side, but here's a picture of one front camber bolt
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a98d48e8c7.jpg

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Camber plates might helpful. You can max those bolts all the way negative then use the camber plates to fine tune the camber and will be much easier then having to keep taking the wheel on and off for adjustments.

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Originally Posted by xd_01

Camber plates might helpful. You can max those bolts all the way negative then use the camber plates to fine tune the camber and will be much easier then having to keep taking the wheel on and off for adjustments.

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Luckily I can adjust them with the wheels on while it's on the alignment rack. But yes, camber plates are a good idea. Any idea who makes them for our cars?

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Thats a good thing! I havent really searched for galant specific ones, although evo ones look dead on. I havent tested my theory yet since i have plates on my coilovers but there is a used set ive been looking at being sold on evom that not only adjust camber but also caster.

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Originally Posted by xd_01

Thats a good thing! I havent really searched for galant specific ones, although evo ones look dead on. I havent tested my theory yet since i have plates on my coilovers but there is a used set ive been looking at being sold on evom that not only adjust camber but also caster.

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Interesting. I'll look into it, but my front camber is just barely out of spec now. Wouldn't the plate actually lift my car about 1/2"? I'm honestly not exactly sure how those plates install.

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Thats tru but probaly not by a 1/2". That would really depend on the plate thickness and the spherical ball used. Typically these are used on coilovers so if there is a difference in height it can be adjusted. I know you dont have coilovers so it probably wasnt a good idea to suggest them.

They basically replace the top hat, that easy. They rest on the same step on the piston shaft as oem.

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Originally Posted by xd_01

Thats tru but probaly not by a 1/2". That would really depend on the plate thickness and the spherical ball used. Typically these are used on coilovers so if there is a difference in height it can be adjusted. I know you dont have coilovers so it probably wasnt a good idea to suggest them.

They basically replace the top hat, that easy. They rest on the same step on the piston shaft as oem.

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It's worth looking into at least. Especially if it's camber and caster. I'll be on coilovers eventually

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Maybe so but most coilovers come with camber plates anyhow so waiting might be a cheaper option. Ive never seen any 8g coilovers come with a combo caster/camber plate but if that interest you the brand plates I saw for sale on Evom where K-Mac. Like I mention before Ive never personally tried Evo plates but they look dead on.

Wait why do u need that much negative camber on the front in the first place?

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Originally Posted by spdracr

Wait why do u need that much negative camber on the front in the first place?

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...5420f04655.jpg

I've aligned it the best that I can so far. I need the front camber to go more positive. It's currently about .4 degrees too negative

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So u just need to add a half a degree? That's not the headache and money for it. Why is it that negative to begin with?

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I'm not saying that extra negative half degree is bad, it's not gonna kill your tires if that's what u r worries about. The toe is what kills your tires. I wouldn't sweat it and would just leave it alone.

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Originally Posted by spdracr

I'm not saying that extra negative half degree is bad, it's not gonna kill your tires if that's what u r worries about. The toe is what kills your tires. I wouldn't sweat it and would just leave it alone.

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I'm assuming it's negative from the lowering springs. Yeah I don't think it'll wear anything either, just being a perfectionist with the alignment. I'll probably just leave it

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Originally Posted by amaru7

I'm assuming it's negative from the lowering springs. Yeah I don't think it'll wear anything either, just being a perfectionist with the alignment. I'll probably just leave it

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No the front won't gain negative camber from lower due to the design of the suspension. The rear yes it get more negative the lower or gets.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by spdracr

No the front won't gain negative camber from lower due to the design of the suspension. The rear yes it get more negative the lower or gets.

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I had just assumed it was from that. Then it's probably just from having everything out and disassembled from the front suspension. I didn't align it after assembling my swap. I waited until I installed polyurethane bushings all around to do the alignment. So idk exactly what caused it, but I know nothing is bent or worn out.

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Was this picture of your alignment specs before you added the camber bolts up front?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by spdracr

Was this picture of your alignment specs before you added the camber bolts up front?

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I installed 1 camber bolt on each side before I ever even checked the alignment. Here's a picture of the alignment before I adjusted anything, and before the other 2 bolts up front...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d34768daf6.jpg

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So it was 0.7 negative and u added the bolts and now it's 0.9 negative instead? I'd leave it at 0.7 negative and won't touch it.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by spdracr

So it was 0.7 negative and u added the bolts and now it's 0.9 negative instead? I'd leave it at 0.7 negative and won't touch it.

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Yeah it was but once all the other adjustments were made it went to .9. The alignment rack uses the rear measurement to calculate the front as well. So as you adjust the rear, the front keeps changing. So I like to do another caster sweep after adjusting the rear. Plus adjusting front toe alone does slightly change the front measurements. Next time I have it in the air I'll pull the front wheels off and just move the front bolts to max positive adjustment. If it's not enough, then oh well. I want to align it one more time anyways because my steering wheel is slightly off center. No pulling, just slightly off. Which means the front toe is set slightly too positive on one when and slightly too negative on the other. And then it'll be getting yet another alignment after I replace my front outer tie rod ends. I drove about 15k miles on my swap without ever doing an alignment and it didn't wear my tires unevenly.

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I need to install the ear camber kits on mine and adjust it. It's too negative for my taste. Need maybe an added degree of positive camber to make it more flush with the fenders.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by spdracr

I need to install the ear camber kits on mine and adjust it. It's too negative for my taste. Need maybe an added degree of positive camber to make it more flush with the fenders.

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The kits for the rear that I installed can adjust up to probably 4 degrees positive depending on how many shims you use. I used 1 shim at max adjustment because I needed 1.5 degrees and it ended up perfect

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Originally Posted by amaru7

The kits for the rear that I installed can adjust up to probably 4 degrees positive depending on how many shims you use. I used 1 shim at max adjustment because I needed 1.5 degrees and it ended up perfect

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Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by spdracr

Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4200987119.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b56d8d089f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e17bd5ac1a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d8f34d99bf.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...7091fb1881.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d9ed0e76b0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...77958de1c6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3a57d773bd.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...068eaf304d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e998cc5bd5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...670e029a82.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a182451f95.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...70d45f11fb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ff1fe4c7ae.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...457022804d.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8b89c4a5f4.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by spdracr

Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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I had the same problem. The bolts in the upper control arms and lower toe arms were seized to the center sleeves of the bushings.

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I know how to do them, I've done them on my last daily. Thanks for the pics anyway. Also u left that metal exposed without painting it. That's going to rust and hopefully doesn't get really bad or else it will be dangerous.

I actually have the upper ones and the lower ones with the bushings still in them, removed them from my last daily before I scrapped it.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by spdracr

I know how to do them, I've done them on my last daily. Thanks for the pics anyway. Also u left that metal exposed without painting it. That's going to rust and hopefully doesn't get really bad or else it will be dangerous.

I actually have the upper ones and the lower ones with the bushings still in them, removed them from my last daily before I scrapped it.

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Yeah I have it handled. Pretty much nothing rusts out here in Vegas. Back in Illinois it would rust in just days.

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Ok good

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DC front upper strut brace showed up last night, but it's bent. I'm waiting to see what the eBay seller is going to do about ithttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...399f40ea88.jpg

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