Yeah bro is simple. How is your g. Is been a while you dont post.
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That would be great bro, and thanks for asking bout my car. Yeah shes all done but have alil problem with her =( Everything works out perfect but for some reason car dosnt want to start. It cranks over but not starting. Their is spark and fuel pressure but nothing is coming out of the injectors. I think its bc of the resistor box not wired up right bc I did get the immob deleted from ECU, but only thing is that I ran out of time and school came back.lol so now have work and school and no time for the car so what I did was sent it to TurboTrix to take a look at it but so far nothing....its been 3 weeks and they havnt called me so this week Im ganna stop by and see what they are doing.
Yeah bro. I could say is the immob. If you using a evo computer there are 3 places to delete the immob. Is good idea to double check the resistor box. All signal goes to the resistor and the ground goes to the ECU. Keep me posted. I could help you in whatever i can.Quote:
That would be great bro, and thanks for asking bout my car. Yeah shes all done but have alil problem with her =( Everything works out perfect but for some reason car dosnt want to start. It cranks over but not starting. Their is spark and fuel pressure but nothing is coming out of the injectors. I think its bc of the resistor box not wired up right bc I did get the immob deleted from ECU, but only thing is that I ran out of time and school came back.lol so now have work and school and no time for the car so what I did was sent it to TurboTrix to take a look at it but so far nothing....its been 3 weeks and they havnt called me so this week Im ganna stop by and see what they are doing.
Here is the Video i took. Fuel is below half.. This is my 02 Galant with Stock computer
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_dcc1fbb5.jpg
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/5e3e96c1.jpg
So when I am running the signal wire to the yellow black c 17, am I supposed to cut the yellow black wire? Or am I supposed to simply connect the signal wire to that wire (with no cuts)?
Get t-taps, and tap it in, NO CUTTING!
Those things need to be banned
T-Taps are great for quick circuit diag or other short term testing that is about it. Over time these things become loose, give intermittent connections and cause a number of headaches. Save yourselves the trouble and just buy the butt connectors, insulated or not...you will thank yourself should you ever have any wiring issues later.
I agree with you to a point but if you get the correct ones (not the ones they sell at walmart) then your good to go
Doesn't matter which ones, when I worked for ATS Diesel we saw a lot of wiring issues over the 3 years I was there that were caused by these types of connections. You have to remember these types of terminals "pinch" into the wire jacket and make contact with the core. Over time the metal pieces start chewing into the copper core of the wire and breaking the strands of wire, ultimately causing intermittent contact issues.
If you use a dissimilar metal, yes it will break the conduit as we do see that alot with the jets on harnesses that move quite a bit. But I have never seen it happen (yet) on a harness that is left alone on the jet, with the use of copper "t-taps" in the military.
Has anyone tried this? Is he saying that his method can both get rid of the CELs and fix the speedo? I am wondering about this because I noticed in one of his posts that he does not have any CELs. He also claims that he is still using the stock computer.
btw. I am a little confused on what he is saying. Where does the signal wire connect to?
ok so i got the wires set like you say but it still doesnt work....i read your post and thought for a sec the G-Y is pin 104 output shaft speed sensor, not 103 (input shaft speed sensor) so why are you tapping 80 into 103 wheni think you meant 104 because it is G-Y
We are reusing the wire from the A/T so you wont have to run any wires.
U could use 103 or 104. Is the same signal. I used 103 and it works.
Im going to write a better tutorial.
Ok made this last night. For people that needs visual.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...peedsensor.jpg
This is with a 99-00 speed sensor connector 2.4L and V6. Same goes with other speed sensor pigtail
For V6 Guys using a 3G speed sensor connector color goes as this
B-W "black with white" = Power to relay Connect to input shaft sensor wire power
B "Black" = Ground, connect to ground on input shaft sensor wire ground
W-L "white with Blue" = Speed sensor signal Connect to input shaft sensor wire signal
pcm plug side
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...Untitled-1.jpg
U got it working. Nice. What picture did you used?
Hey bro I had my speedo working for a while, but then it stopped working after i raced this car, u got any ideas before i start removing my blower motor again to check connections?
you don't have to removed your blower motor to check...
Thread revival! Hello I am coming from club 3G to search for help. PLus you guys can seem friendler at times. I have 2 questions. I used my output sensor, ground, and signal and it didnt work. Do i have to use output? also my reverse light fuse keeps blowing now. thanks for the help
The ground can go any where. The power comes from 12v when the key is on. The trick is to wire in at the c17 harness. You need to find the signal wire in c17 harness, and hook your sig wire from your vss
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So i cannot wire the signal wire to pin 103/104 to pin 80 at the ecu? it has to be to the c17 connector?
It should work. I think lol
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Another note: my reverse lights don't work. If I have them wired color matching the fuse blows instantly, if I have them alternating with black/orange to red/blue they will stay on for a little bit of time or a couple of switches into reverse and blow the fire again. Could it be because I don't have a manual guage cluster
No, its not because you don't have a manual cluster. I sent you a pm. sorry I was late haha
I hate bumping old threads, but wanted to thank those of you who contributed to solving this. It saved me a bit of digging through wiring diagrams to find the solution.
Because of the diligence of those who had this issue before me, it was really as easy as splicing into 3 wires. Thank you for that.
Ok so thread revival, so after wiring up my vss I had to go and check all fuses cause the car would not start. I found it to be a bad connection on my p.n.switch. once I got it fixed I started the car and now my gauge cluster doesn't light up at all? All fuses are ok pulled every one to check and nothing......any thoughts.....mind you radio works fine..odometer shows milage just no face back lighting
Make sure your dimmer switch is plugged in
Ok, everything was working prior to the swap and rewire. I started the car up and let it run before I pulled the trans out and all my lights worked. And I didn't take apart the cluster to do the rewire it all went to the c17 plug by your gas pedal, so no reason for it not to be plugged in. And I tried turning it up figuring maybe it was all the way down and still no luck.
Hi guys, i changed my cluster from low-vis to high-vis and it doesn't light up ,except all lights for indicators,engine lights and else. I read about that i need to modify wiring to get it working ,but all pictures with dead links :/ What i need to modify here? that would be great with visual explanation on photos or smth.
https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b1&oe=5A56C840
https://scontent-waw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...3f&oe=5A58147A
Are there any pics that links aren't broken ? I'm not good with wiring and am a better visual learner . I don't know which connector is the input shaft sensor and don't know exactly how would I need to connect the wires to the c17. Oh I have a 03 v6
There is a simpler way of doing it, no need to run new wires. Look right here in my build thread: https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...l=1#post816072