Yay[emoji58] http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...7a9fef1c0f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...a7c16f5013.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...b38211b3cf.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ca9757b35b.jpg
Printable View
Needs cleaning. Valves need to come out http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ea3c6cd266.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...607ac339c1.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...8ee4e2cc1f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...5e41cb932a.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...0af7c5c16c.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...617b33f726.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...18e6bb7503.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ea230facc9.jpg
Wow that is a lot of rust! Get that b cleaned asap!
Use CLR for the rust.
All cam caps are labeled already (pay attention). Just label the rockers.
Trash the stock lifters and get new 3mm lifters.
Place a socket and 1/2'' extension over the spring and hit it good with a hammer. The keepers should slip out.
Use pliers to pull the valve seals. Keep track of the valves
Yeah... that all seems like a lot to me. Especially the parts cost, and the rear main seal labor...
For reference: when I had my clutch, flywheel, pilot - throw out bearings AND rear main seal replaced the total labor was only 350
I bought my clutch, flywheel, pilot - throw out bearings separate and the shop had to buy the main seal.
total cost for everything was like $600
Edit: Also there is no oil pan gasket, Fel-Pro makes a cork one but I think but its trash IIRC. Mitsubishi used Mitsubond from the factory sooo idk what else to say about that.
I'm aware of the belts being cracked and the pans leaking. Last time i checked (If correctly) my mounts are still good.Quote:
Originally Posted by DEADEYES
As for the rear main seal, I don't know what it was or where so I couldn't put any input.
Yeah im pretty sure you would notice if all your mounts were bad, and he only listed 3 lol shit I had one that was bad forever and it annoyed the shit out of me until i fixed it.
Little Update on the Head Swap.
"Did you do it yet Jon?!" Nope, just collecting more parts.
-Removed the valves and none are bent.
-Will replace the valve seals soon
-Measured the deck and cannot fit a .02 feeler anywhere so it's flat?
-Cleaned it up a little bit more
Parts Needed (That I know of)
-Timing Belt
-Crankshaft Position Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-Thermostat
-Timing Belt covers (Looking at one ATM)
-Bolts & Screws I'm missing or forgot to grab [emoji34]
-Head bolts
Once I get what I mentioned and some other bits I can probably get this is by the end of the month :D
you can use the 3G knock sensor, its pretty much like the 2G one.
Cool cool, I can grab one at a J-Yard (y)Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticj
I think I have a spare knock sensor as well as both cam and crank sensors. I have a stock GS head gasket and get yourself some ARP head studs. Message me on FB please.
I thought you wanted to keep the GS gasket ;) lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
I'll msg you tomorrow (y)
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...8ec9fa1a5e.jpg
Thinking of going ARP head studs. This project keeps hurting my wallet lol http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...25b2db47f4.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...0b15bd2e6f.jpg
Can it go in now?
No... clean it :D
Getting closer...
-Get a valve job
-1G CAS (Or a replacement crankshaft position sensor)
-^1G to 2G adaptor
-Knock Sensor
I'm gonna go to a J-Yard to find a 1g CAS, a knock sensor, and some bolts I'm missing
dont forget the piggytail for the 1g cas.
lap the valves and be done with it.
you already have the 7g gs cam sensor, just cut a crank sensor piggytail from any 8g.
get a knock sensor from a V6 8g or 3g. It sits under the intake manifold right in the middle of the V
Head swap will probably be delayed until the summer. I currently have all the parts to do it but not the time. I'm going back to school next week and won't have as much time to work on it.
At the same time I can look into rebuilding the bottom end a little as well. 300k+ Miles with the same engine that has not been touched!
Probably look into replacing rings or go all out if I ever go boost within the next year of swapping.
Summer Plan
-Head Swap
-Trans Swap (If I find one)
- Work on bottom end
-Boost???
Head reassembled.
For some reason exhaust valves for cylinders 2 &4 are slightly open at tdc
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...c735f4f895.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...c9f838177a.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...4ee0b5047b.jpg
dont worry about that, you have the cams installed.
make sure cyl.1 valves are closed at tdc.
I picked up a job for the summer so I could have some money flow lol.
The head is basically ready to bolt on but needs some little things like bolts for thermostat/water pipe.
I've created a new list for my future plans. Just a couple below
-MHI 16G
-Intercooler, piping, etc
-DSM injectors
-Gst/7G 5 Speed parts
-DSM link or Safc
Possibly making a trip to Tampa to pick up a 2G Spyder gs for parts. I'll plan just use the engine and all of the trans components. I'll sell everything else I don't need
Nice, when are you putting it in your car?
Well done. Time to finish the job. Most important part is to get the car running again as soon as possible. Don't spend months pondering upgrades and collecting parts. Get the wiring completed well, upgrade the clutch, drop in the motor, fill the fluids, connect the exhaust and start driving. Worry about upgrades and jewel pieces later. I'd guess that 70% of build projects die with the car on stands.
I obtained a second engine for cheap so I could start my build. My 7g is my only car and I drive it everyday lolQuote:
Originally Posted by DOHCstunr
Currently saving up for a daily so when the time comes I'll drop it in
Picked up an Evo 9 intercooler and a piping kit
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...384b7a86a3.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...3642458be8.jpg
Coming
Injectors
Safc+Maft translator or Gst eprom ecu
Updates?
Nothing really big regarding progression.
-Hooked up my safc and maf translator to the harness.
-AEM Gauges are on my desk
-Installed the timing belt
Right now I'm piecing in the easier bits and planning my piping.
-Downpipe/Exhaust (eBay probably)
-Some gaskets
-Lines and Hoses
-Injectors (Evo 560?)
-AFPR (?)
-Gst pan
-Bov (1G?)
-Boost Controller (Hallman?)
Picked up a 2nd 7G for $700 http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...14f042cc97.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...347ee5ac53.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...7af492a38f.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...cf1d1878aa.jpg
Found this drawing of a 7Gb and I'm thinking of replicating it in a way. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...6343da24ac.jpg
I also received my 5 speed trans for my build http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...372350a88a.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...b629c65e77.jpg
Replicating the drawing would be sick, front end doesn't seem too off with lip minus the hood in the drawing.
The dude from Nebraska drew that up. It is a nice design.
Goes by master visionary
Nothing really new. Reassembled the block again and waiting for my fuel rail to come in from JNZ. Ran into a problem with my coolant feed/return for the turbo but I'll look around.
Vr4 caliper swap: Done
Engine and trans swap due in March
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...69bf5a2be1.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...bee29d7b4a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...98725e5e96.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...27b588d530.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c07b2c0476.jpg
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
awesome. what rotors did you use with the caliper: 04-05 outlander, 4G GT, or 1G 3KGT?
I'm using the rtm racing brackets so they are cobra rotors. I believe they're from an 02Quote:
Originally Posted by mysticj
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
So I'm in the process of debating of using my coolant lines for my B16g. If I were to use them I can feed from the iac and for the return could I just tap into it? I'm currently using the GS water pipe and thermostat housing and I'm a bit confused when comparing it with the 2g turbo t-stat and water pipe.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d42b548844.jpg
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
you feed from the thermostat housing and you return to the water pipe. You can "T" into both IAC lines, but that makes it a bit messy.
Post a pic of your t-stat housing and Ill show you where to source it