*UPDATED 6/24/12*
So a few years later i finally finished the 4g63t awd swap. I won't bore you with too much info as you can find a lot of help/pics from both stewi's and goosey's build but i'll add a few pointers:
For the driveshaft you dont have to get an adapter from DSS to connect to the DSM 6 bolt rear shaft section; you can use the flange from an EVO. (same spline count; fits perfectly and much much cheaper)
Part number is MR145248. ($48)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3280.jpg
For the front section of the drive shaft, you can use a slip yoke from a starion. it's the same spline count but the O.D. is smaller; the solution is to have a sleeve machined and pressed on. IMO this is a much more effective solution as the u joint is OEM size and clears the tunnel without having to hack it up. There is also speculation from DSM community that the DSS slip yoke is cut from a new oem yoke and welded onto a larger u joint which can be very dangerous if it breaks. (see link below).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/100_3314.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0678.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0684.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...p/IMAG0694.jpg
Drive shaft length from seal to flange (assuming using the evo flange) is 56" ; I dont see any reason it should change from car to car.
For the boot on the steering column, use an evo boot to close up the gap that results from extending it; part # MR449901 ($13)
Video of first startup:
http://youtu.be/8VeZLe0n-AI