Baby G ~ 2000 Galant ES I4

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12-04-2009, 11:21 PM
4g63lover

test fit.

Need spacers, tires, and lug nuts. But I got til spring so it will just sit in my garage til then.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/PIC-0022.jpg
12-04-2009, 11:22 PM
seth98esT

When is it going to drive?
12-04-2009, 11:23 PM
4g63lover

Quote:

Originally Posted by seth98esT

When is it going to drive?

haha I knew someone is going to say that. I'm just waiting for the clutch fluid reservoir to come in the mail. Then she will be ready to go.
12-05-2009, 12:00 AM
Ivory8g

wheel width?
12-05-2009, 11:22 AM
4g63lover

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivory8g

wheel width?

yeah, about that. lol. It's an OEM wheel so it's 6.5" it's going to be my Daily shoes.
12-05-2009, 12:01 PM
Stewi

jigz are those 2g gst wheels?
12-05-2009, 12:12 PM
WhiteGalant

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stewi

jigz are those 2g gst wheels?

Thats what i was thinkin they looked like.
12-05-2009, 04:14 PM
4g63lover

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stewi

jigz are those 2g gst wheels?

yup. my moms early xmas present.
12-05-2009, 04:23 PM
4g63lover

so worked on the car for a little bit. It seems I got the clutch bled but there seems to be a leak where the banjo fitting is. The slave might need replacing. But there is good feel in the clutch. I wired her up and proceeded to satrt her and she didnt even click the starter didnt engage so i was like oh shit. So i proceeded to check the wiring and it seems like I got too big of connectors that the metal clip is not even penetrating the wire. So going to try it out once again with new connectors and see if she lives. I want to start this car so bad already!!!

And yes, I wired them properly yellow/black and red/black on the black harness.
12-05-2009, 07:58 PM
seth98esT

Did you use two copper washers with the banjo bolt?
12-05-2009, 07:58 PM
4g63lover

the car still thinks its in gear. I cant seem to get a good conection with the splice connectors. Would it be ok to cut and connect the two wires or is that a complete no no?
12-05-2009, 07:59 PM
4g63lover

Quote:

Originally Posted by seth98esT

Did you use two copper washers with the banjo bolt?

I just used whatever came with it.
12-05-2009, 08:00 PM
seth98esT

Not sure on the wiring. If the clutch isnt engaging, you need to do some more bleeding.
12-05-2009, 08:08 PM
4g63lover

Quote:

Originally Posted by seth98esT

Not sure on the wiring. If the clutch isnt engaging, you need to do some more bleeding.

I'm going to bleed it some more when I either seal the banjo fitting properly or buy a new slave. and the clutch is disengaging. It's heavy as shit.
12-05-2009, 08:15 PM
hhp8008

Oh wow I basicly read your whole thread bro it very inspirational to actually see a fello G owner do a 5 speed swap. Most have done it.....yup but few have a whole thread to show it :P lol

Major Props to you bro.
12-05-2009, 08:34 PM
4g63lover

thanks man. Now, I just want to get it started. I HATE WIRING!
12-05-2009, 10:29 PM
4g63lover

Also, is there a lock nut I'm missing on the master cylinder rod? I got it unhooked from the pedal the other night and started turning it but it didnt seem like it was actually turning or moving away from the piston dish.
12-06-2009, 09:05 PM
Ivory8g

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:o...econnect/1.jpg

using these?

and its all good some spacers will make the wheels look hot the closer you get to flush :)
12-06-2009, 09:11 PM
4g63lover

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivory8g

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:o...econnect/1.jpg

using these?

and its all good some spacers will make the wheels look hot the closer you get to flush :)

Thanks =)

Yeah, using those connectors ain't working well for me. So I'm going to cut and crimp them instead.
12-06-2009, 10:17 PM
Ivory8g

but of course! ^_^
hmm weird those are what i used! 10-12 awg?
12-07-2009, 12:26 PM
4g63lover

mine were 20 AWG. still too big. I think it was the connector itself. Cuz the little metal piece seemed to stretch everytime I pushed it down.
12-07-2009, 02:48 PM
4g63lover

She's ALIVE!!! but still need to bleed the clutch a little more and fix the leak on the slave.
12-07-2009, 03:07 PM
beam514

congrats!
12-07-2009, 03:07 PM
polishmafia

Congrats dude!
12-07-2009, 03:16 PM
4g63lover

thanks!!
12-07-2009, 03:29 PM
beam514

pics!
and I wish I knew about the 4-5 ft of SS line before I bought all the OEM stuff lol
12-07-2009, 04:10 PM
4g63lover

I will have pics as soon as I get the clutch bleeding done.
12-07-2009, 10:32 PM
4g63lover

The trans is a little noisy especially when i first start it. Probably the ISB the seller was talking about, a little search on C3G says it can be driven on and not a pressing issue. Just annoying. I will get it fixed at a trransmission place as soon as I get the money but for now I just want to take her for a spin.
12-08-2009, 09:33 AM
blue8g

fap fap fap fap fap fap

congrats Jigz
12-08-2009, 10:18 AM
Ivory8g

yeah buddy!! :)
12-08-2009, 04:56 PM
4g63lover

I figured out the leak on the slave. the two washers were both on top instead of one on top and one on bottom. I got it fixed but still havent put fluid in it since its so effin cold out. should fix it though.
12-08-2009, 08:25 PM
RedGalant2k1

good to hear, can't wait to see!
12-09-2009, 04:37 PM
4g63lover

The banjo fitting is fixed. No more leak there but the NPT/-4 adapters are. on both the slave and the master. If its not one thing its the other. lol. Looks like I need to get some plumbing sealing tape to seal the fittings. That should keep it from leaking right?
12-09-2009, 05:26 PM
WhiteGalant

Yea I just assumed you had to use plumbers teflon tape on those fittings. I have officially bought all of the parts, I'm just waiting on 4 of them lol
12-11-2009, 06:11 PM
4g63lover

I got all the little leaks fixed with the Teflon tape (Thank you Denver!!!). Started bleeding the system today with gmoem2 but the clutch is still not disengaging, the trans is still rotating whn you depress the clutch, and the fluid still has tiny air bubbles in it (looks like sprite). Its such a pain, at one point the fluid was super clear like no bubbles, so I had Gmo pump it a few times with the bleeder closed and when I opended the bleeder and pumped it more thre goes a bunch of bubbles. lol. I hate bleeding hydraulic fluid, I hate doing it on brakes and I am now discovering that I hate doing it on hydraulic clutches. lol Looks like I got more bleeding to do tomorrow after class. /rant

Although it is so nice to hear it running, I just want it to move.
12-11-2009, 06:50 PM
mko

you may be having the same issue as Drew did. You may need the extended slave cyl. rod and you proly wont be able to bleed it correctly untill you have that rod.
12-11-2009, 07:19 PM
seth98esT

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4g63lover

I got all the little leaks fixed with the Teflon tape (Thank you Denver!!!). Started bleeding the system today with gmoem2 but the clutch is still not disengaging, the trans is still rotating whn you depress the clutch, and the fluid still has tiny air bubbles in it (looks like sprite). Its such a pain, at one point the fluid was super clear like no bubbles, so I had Gmo pump it a few times with the bleeder closed and when I opended the bleeder and pumped it more thre goes a bunch of bubbles. lol. I hate bleeding hydraulic fluid, I hate doing it on brakes and I am now discovering that I hate doing it on hydraulic clutches. lol Looks like I got more bleeding to do tomorrow after class. /rant

Although it is so nice to hear it running, I just want it to move.

You dont want to pump the pedal with the bleeder open.

Get a coke bottle with an inch or two of fluid in the bottom. Attach a hose to the bleeder valve and put it in the bottle, make sure the bottom of the hose is in the fluid.
1. Pump the pedal 3-4 times and hold it down on the last pump
2. Open the valve, once it stops shooting out, close the valve
3. Repeat until you get no bubbles.

Or what I have always done, go buy a $5 speed bleeder valve and bleed it by yourself. You cant let the resevoir run out of fluid in the process or else you are starting the whole process over.

Does the pedal feel stiff at all?

For a 2g, probably flip it for a 8g/Evo:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...rmcentered.jpg
When gmoem pumps the pedal, how far does the slave rod move?

Quote:

Originally Posted by RRE

The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.

When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

armcentered.jpg (54956 bytes)If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
12-11-2009, 07:22 PM
4g63lover

I shimmed the fork so I shouldnt need the longer rod. Plus, the pedal doesnt feel "quite" right yet, I can still feel air at the top of the pedal. I also need some new gear lube. I didnt realize that the Mobil 1 synthetic is GL-5. I need to get some GL-4.
12-11-2009, 07:29 PM
4g63lover

Quote:

Originally Posted by seth98esT

You dont want to pump the pedal with the bleeder open.

Get a coke bottle with an inch or two of fluid in the bottom. Attach a hose to the bleeder valve and put it in the bottle, make sure the bottom of the hose is in the fluid.
1. Pump the pedal 3-4 times and hold it down on the last pump
2. Open the valve, once it stops shooting out, close the valve
3. Repeat until you get no bubbles.

Or what I have always done, go buy a $5 speed bleeder valve and bleed it by yourself. You cant let the resevoir run out of fluid in the process or else you are starting the whole process over.

Does the pedal feel stiff at all?

For a 2g, probably flip it for a 8g/Evo:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...rmcentered.jpg
When gmoem pumps the pedal, how far does the slave rod move?

The pedal has a little bit of play then it feels super stiff. The fork sits as close to the slave as possible when the clutch is engaged and the slave pushes it about an inch or so away from it when you press the pedal.

I also have a bleeder kit i got from NAPA that comes with a bottle and it says you can keep the bleeder open as you pump so you can do it by yourself. I'm sure it just needs more bleeding because as I said the fluid is not crystal clear.
12-15-2009, 03:28 PM
4g63lover

Cold as hell out.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_4980.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_4982.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_4983.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_4986.jpg

Car is a little dusty, but it's freezing out and I'm not planning to clean it. lol.

Drove it around the block yesterday feels awesome. I'm going to baby her for a while on short trips just incase anything comes up and I need to do some work. But I should be good to go. Can't wait 'til spring.

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