Thats crazy.. Congrats!
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Thats crazy.. Congrats!
Yea man. This build has been a HUGE inspiration for me. Unfortunately i dont have access to a lift and this build would be an absolute nightmare without one. When i get rich ill do this build with a built tranny...... LOL
Thanks for the kind words :) Actually, I did most of the work in my garage crawling around on the floor. The only part we did on the lift was the exhaust, FMIC and gas tank.
Surely i will do this one day. Im so happy that you got your recognition man. Its truely a prize piece and i respect you for sticking with this and COMPLETING it. Keep us posted on future mods.
Inching my way closer to a rebuild...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_500wt_1182
I don't remember if I mentioned it but I've got an Evo 9 pump in and rewired now too.
if all goes accordingly this will be my next move. Already scoped out the whole entire gsx for 600 bucks. Plus my gf is paying half for parts and the other half for me working on her gst (building motor and swapping parts). So this build will be pretty pennyless for me. Im just not sure how the front driver side axle mounts. So ill be looking on this thread for help and whatnot.
You'll see how the axle mounts. It is pretty simple. It uses a two piece shaft with a bearing bolted to the back of the block right by the A/C pump.
So when i start this will you be around for assistance? LOL
Probably not in your garage, no, but I'll be here and I'll help answer your questions :) As I've told others, the wiring is the tricky part. The mechanical bits are pretty straight forward.
Well we got the car.. Any day now were going to gut it and get my awd swap off of it. Any updates with this?
Awesome. When do you think you'll get started? I have little to update. I've got my 245 summer tires back on the car and I went out to do some tuning the other day. I finally made the FPR I've been wanting to make so I needed a retune. The car is making boost much easier now. Unfortunately it is also leaking oil at an unhealthy rate. I'm getting price estimates and more info together so I can build my 4G64 bottom end this summer and refresh the head so it can all go together in the car. It looks like VISA will have to be my sponsor if I'm going to get it done this summer but I want a good engine in the car by next winter. I'm also keeping my eyes open for more supportive seats. 3kGT seats actually look decent and the width may be about right. Evo seats would be great but expensive. School and my new daughter have been keeping me out of the garage most of the winter so not much else going on.
I wish you luck with your build man. It sounds awesome and your car has been an inspiration for me. IDK when im doing the build. My gf bought a piece of shit 2g 3 years ago we had the motor completely rebuilt and it sat till she could afford new piping and fmic. Ran it down the road 6 miles and boom! #3 rod snapped and fucked up a good motor (overboosted like crazy somehow). Now were rebuilding another 7 bolt with nippon pistons and 1g rods. The car has a bent chassis and its in really bad shape so she and i decided to go in half on the gsx. She gets the shell and i get the awd swap. It seems pointless to some but the gsx will be a gst and the galant will be a estx.. LOL. Hopefully by this winter ill have my 6 bolt built and ready to go in that way i do the motor swap and awd swap all at once like you did. If you dont stick around im going to need some contact info. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
I'm happy to know I've inspired you. I'll be around to help with questions as you build :)
I'm up as a candidate for COTM. Go vote! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=41287
The '64 block is off at the machine shop now along with the pistons and rods. I'm putting together my list of parts to buy and getting plans together for tucking the engine harness a bit while everything is out. I've also completed a retrofit of both front headlights with Bosch projector housings.
I also stripped the front subframe out from under the Talon. This summer I will use it for building a k-brace under the front end to help tighten things up. I'll also be making a 3-point strut tower brace.
Good luck for COTM. Im up as well!
couple questions. You have a 94 right?Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
Are you using the original 94 control arms?
the upper control arms on the 94 and most 95's are stamped steel and are not boxed in like the eclipse arms.
It took me YEARS to realize this.
I think the rear lower control arms are this was as well.
You can always install the 8ggalant/3geclipse rear suspension arms as they are tubular and much more rigid than the 7g arms.
Did you ever install the prothane master kit?
If you don't build your own, I'd recommend sourcing a 8g vr4 strut brace.
it is original Mitsubishi equipment so you can count on quality. Not only does it tie the strut towers together, but it ties the upper control arms into the same bracing. I never really felt the benefit of a strut bar until i slapped this bitch on. Its insane.
Shadow, good luck to you too :)
D, I do have a 94. I used the rear arms off the 95 Talon donor. All the front arms are off the Galant though. I'll take a look at them and see if they need to be boxed. If so I can get that taken care of. Installing the prothane rear bushings will be one of the other summer projects depending on if I get the 8g/3g arms for the rear. The local yard wants over $100 for the set. I may just box in the stock rear arms as well.
I'll be building my own bar and mounts for the strut brace. I'm toying with trying to do it out of rectangular tubing rather than round as it would resist deflection much more than a round bar. With the bar doing most of it's work under tension rather than compression it may not matter. I know I'll be building the k-brace out of rectangular pieces. Triangulating it to the firewall should really tighten up the front end.
I keep wishing there was a way to make a master cylinder stopper for our cars.
I used to have a 4 point JDM Ralliart brace(k brace) made of oval aluminum that tied the compression arms to the control arms from both sides together.
I sold it to MKO a while back. Was a sweet piece. Weighed next to nothing, but you could stand on it and it wouldn't flex.
Master cylinder stopper?
Yeah, I saw that JDM brace. It is what gave me the idea to make mine the way I'm going to :) Very nice piece.
First off, thanks to everyone who voted. It looks like I won COTM for May.
Second, I'm getting together a parts list for my '64 build. I decided to pull apart the oil pump I removed from the '64 block to see if it was still good. I think it really did have 300k miles on it. Take a look at the wear:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...lpump64016.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...lpump64015.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...lpump64004.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...lpump64011.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...lpump64010.jpg
None of the scratches are particularly deep but they are sufficient for me to want a new pump and front cover. So much for saving $100-200.
Surprisingly enough the crank was in great shape. It should just need a thorough polish.
Looks like the parts list will be:
Bearings (ordered by machine shop)
Gasket set (cometic head gasket?)
Head bolts (ARP?)
Timing kit (kevlar '63 belt?)
Oil Pump
Water Pump
Brian Crower Valve springs (while I'm in there)
So far I've found some great deals on the valve springs and head gasket on Amazon. I'm still looking for deals on the rest. I don't know if I'll go with ARP head studs or something else. Likewise with the Cometic head gasket. I've heard the composite ones actually seal better if you aren't going to boost outrageously high. I'm planning on hitting around 400 hp with this setup and a possible turbo/cam upgrade down the line. I may be tearing down the car this Thursday or Friday.
the wear on the housing itself does not look bad. What is the gear mesh clearance? go with oem composite or multilayer. Cometic isnt all that great. And this is coming from someone that has used them before. Do they make a kevlar belt for the 64/63 hybrid?
No kevlar belt for the hybrid but it is possible to machine the tensioner system a little bit and use a 4g63 belt. I'll take the pump down to the machine shop and see what he says about it.
Is there an OEM gasket for an 87mm bore that will handle turbo pressures reliably?
How much boost do you plan to run? Im sure the cometic gasket would work for you but man im telling you they arent all that great. Arp studs are pretty good though ;-)
I'm planning on running 22psi on the 16g for now. Any more than that and it is just hot air if I remember right. At some point my buddy and I both want to pick up Holset turbos at which point I'd pump it up a bit. I don't think I'll ever go real big with the turbo. I want to keep it quick spooling and streetable.
can't speak for the 64 dohc,
but I'm running 26psi daily on a stock mitsu composite, and stock 6 bolt headstuds.
Been doing this for well over a year daily driven.
Of course 7.8:1 compression and a 50trim make this possible.
i looked at the 63t and 64 dohc head gaskets at the dealer when i picked up my new dohc head gasket and they are the same just the larger bore for the 64. i have seen people run high boost on the 63t head gaskets so id figure you could run a good bit. i would use ARP head studs and that whole deal and i am using a stock 64 dohc timing belt and stock 94 gs cam gears. i plan on building another motor and then with that setuo run 16-20psi. as a matter of fact john, i want to pick up your old GS motor from matt and build itQuote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
you pretty much have to run arp's.
You cannot re-use the factory head studs because they are stretch to torque studs. Once they've been stretched once, they simply cannot provide accurate, or consistant torque specs. Not to mention if you mill the head, the old stud will be stretched so it won't even be able to clamp down the same as before.
Parts Ordered:
ARP Head Studs: $91 - eBay
BC Valve Springs: $82.62 - Amazon
Gasket Set: $52
I am getting a Gates timing/balance belt locally - $80
Pistons were $335
Rods $152
Nice. Ive read on dsmtuners were a dude had an issue with the BC springs. It broke but BC did help the guy out. When i build my 6 bolt im going with stock bottom end, 272 cams, bc springs, reduced diameter valves with 1mm overbore. BLAH BLAH BLAH.. Anyways congrats on winning car of the month. You deserve it man and post up some pics of the build yo!
9 AM: Finished my last final for the semester and went out to the garage.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/001.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/003.jpg
Notice the oil leaking everywhere:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ipsh/005-1.jpg
Yuck! I think I'll be fixing the PCV system up so this can't ever happen again.
12 Noon:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...clipsh/009.jpg
It's already on the way to my machine shop in the back of my buddy Rick's tool truck. I sent the oil pump along too to see what my machinist says. The rest of the engine bay will get emptied out next week or the following week. I've got a house project that will take priority if it starts next week.
o-o I see some turbo malfunction down there. I had the same thing happening to my old s16g. how in the world sis that j-pipe clear the fans. I have the same one and I had to use the slim fans.
Keep us posted
Nah, the turbo is fine. The grime is from the valve cover leaking and the oil in the intake is from the PCV valve not working right. I never had any issues with the J-pipe clearing. Those are the stock Galant fans and radiator. Maybe it is a little different design than the one you are using.
Man i love building engines... I cant wait to get mine build.. But for now im building my gf's 2g.. Anyways. good luck cleaning all that oil up. I went to walley world and got some of the cheap foaming engine cleaner and a stiff house broom and saturated my engine bay down when the motor was out.
wow just saw this and the progress is amazing to say the least but what about the evo 4 4g63 would this swap also being awd is possible or is this wishfull thinking.............. good work so farQuote:
Originally Posted by akamikeymo
Wrong orientation. The Evo 1-3 used the same orientation as DSM's and 6g-7g Galants. 4-9 used the 4G63 rotated 180* and would not work in this car (at least as a bolt-in.)
If you want a holset let me know man, I have a great connection directly with getting these for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsh
How much can you get a hx35 for?
Thanks, I'll hit you up when I've got the funds. I'm already spending more than I should just building the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by SPD_FRK
Hi
Your Project was a good one and I liked it very much, sence I wanted to do a similar one on my car . you Did it on a Mitsubishi galant 7G 4Cylinder Turbo Engine ; I want to do it on a Mitsubishi Galant 7G 6Cylander Twin Turbo Engine.
I have the AWD Gearbox (W5M33) but I dont have the rear axel Parts . where can I get these parts ?
Tanx
Check the first page ;) I responded to your PM about it as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kavosh_h