Going tomorrow to see 6G72Galant and pick up the stuff that I have bought for my car... =)
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Going tomorrow to see 6G72Galant and pick up the stuff that I have bought for my car... =)
Check out page 3. We fabbed a full 3in exhaust, a dual tip muffler, and high flow cat setup on the GSX. I have included a video to hear to sound, I say 10/10
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/show...t=45045&page=3
picked up a set of honda accord mirrors
Score... PM me if you need helpQuote:
Originally Posted by finald8ta
Sent from my BlackBerry 8530 using Tapatalk
thx man, im awesome with electronics, right now i have them apart cleaning and prepping for paint, ill post pics in my build and on FB laterQuote:
Originally Posted by DTP
Okay. Let me know. I have the wiring set up easy. I can tell you exactly.Quote:
Originally Posted by finald8ta
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk 'cause I'm awesome...
painted my lower dash black
Painted my vent grills black. Next will be the mitsu symbol
Bled the air out of the power steering system and went for a drive.I also got to see what it is like to off road in a galant lol.The road was all ripped up because they are paving it.
Got my electronic boost controller today "Greddy Profec B-spec II"
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...920_073035.jpg
Argel, trust me when I say this, make the electronic boost controller the last thing you hookup. Get the car running correctly on a manual boost controller before you even mess with the electronic one. EBC's can sometimes do funny stuff and you'll be chasing your tail thinking its something with the tune or the motor and it wont be.
he's right on the money... i had the same unit and that happened to me. i honestly didnt use it much and trying to tune the gain without getting boost spike was a pain in the ass. what turbo are you running? if its got a traditional o2 housing that you might run into the same problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
glowshift single din gauge holder with autometer sport-comp gauges
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...T/DSC01177.jpg
Nice^
thanks i needed a quick, clean, reversible way to mount my gauge that piece was like $15
It looks good,but did you put those in place of where the radio sits?
i put them in place of the of the heater and a/c controls... because i dont have any of that stuff in the car anymore. but you can put it in either of the 3 holes. ( haha sounds dirty)
^ Lol...looks good Brandon
Thanks Chris... these parts are begging to get installed but 12hr days 7 days a week are killing my modding time lol
Thanks for the heads up Brian!Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
I have evo8 turbo w/ ebay o2 housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by underated
What I have now for my turbo set up;
Evo8 turbo w/ braided stainless steel oil return lines
Ebay o2 housing
Evo8 manifold "x2"
Manifold spacers "x2"
Evo injectors w/ fuel rail and tearstone billet fuel rail adapter "Still need resistor pack"
255 walboro fuel pump
2.5" Custom made upper intercooler pipe w/ Tial BOV "clears the battery"
Intake pipe w/ HKS filter
Evo intercooler pipes and misc couplers
Ebay intercooler
Custom made 3" down pipe
Custom made 3" turboback exhaust
Greddy electronic boost controller
Apexi turbo timer
I still need;
Evo8 ECU
Gauges
FPR
Misc bolts and gaskets
Transmission cooler "using my A/T for now until I have all the parts I need for my 5 speed swap"
Oil cooler
Evo oil pan
Evo oil filter housing
I'm not sure what else do I need but if I missed something let me know. thanks =]
i thought this was a good price for the evo 8 ecu ^^^ Not sure if its an auto or manual though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsu...c#ht_500wt_975
Someone correct me if Im wrong but I don't think a ACD ECU is the same as the Evo PCM, so the thing on that link is not whats needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by keith6110
edit:
ACD(ACTIVE CENTER DIFFERENTIAL) module.
Correct the ACD module is totally different.
Also, in the U.S (not sure about overseas) the EVO was only offered in a manual transmission configuration.
Bought another set of beltpads... =) Mitsubishi!!
That's a good price for the ECU, to bad they are ACD =[Quote:
Originally Posted by keith6110
Picked up a set of D/S rotors and pads :)
I did not know that. Glad some one corrected me and I didn't steer some one in the wrong direction...Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
DO NOT use ceramic pads on them. I learned that the hard way. Use a high quality semi-metallic.Quote:
Originally Posted by DTP
Sucky thing about those, you can't resurface them either. :/
^um, yes you can, I do it all the time when I get new pads....
You can't do pad slaps with ceramics, the pad compound is too hard. The small groves left by the old pad, the new ceramics aren't going to "mold" to the groves, leaving pockets of hot air, and giving you a bad brake pedal, and brake fade is pushed too much.Quote:
Originally Posted by greddy
At least with the semi-metallic, the pad breaks in and takes the shape of the small groves already cut into the rotor.
Me personally, you're better off with blank rotors with a high quality pad. Better life and you can give them a cut if needed.
If you say so man, my galant's brakes take abuse that 98% of the people on this forum haven't experienced, and I swap pads in and out constantly, using a variety of different compounds. I also have my rotors turned regularly. Never had a problem with grooving or what not, and they're drilled and slotted.
I dunno if you do Auto-X or road course racing often, then I could see the need for a slotted rotor. But just for street use, you're better off with blanks. But that's just me.
On a lighter note, you still have that lip handy? :D
We both AX :)
I see what both of you are saying... But I already have a set with ceramics, and they've held out fine.
I abuse the piss outta my car at times. The only problem is that these rotors are warped to shit. Hence why I picked more up! But I paid almost nothing for the new ones, so no worries.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk 'cause I'm awesome...
It is a matter of reducing gas build up between the pad and rotors. That is what brake fade partially is...gas build up and lack of proper venting. Anything metal (wood, or many other materials for that matter). Can be turned or machined, this includes slotted and drilled rotors. The tendency is though that you burn through lather bits more, and are better off on a more substantial brake lather than what most regular repair shops use.
Now carbon ceramic rotors aren't turned, those are a different animal altogether. Also a reason a brake job on a Ferrari Porsche or similar costs $6000 (or more).
I do road course events 2-4 times a month, which is why my rotors are slotted.
Tried to get a inspection but i need stock non tinted tails and stock headlights with reflectors..
Plasti-dipped the JDM mirrors, pics later on.
Buy a set, put them on. Then swap your old ones back on until next year or whenever your next inspection is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redhaze
Thats the plan looking around the forum and ebay for some cheap onesQuote:
Originally Posted by keith6110
I went to the yard and luckily they had some halfway torn apart ones so with my super human strength lol i ripped the rest of them apart and tore out the reflectors. Lady let me have them. So im going to bake my original ones and put the corner back in them. Beats paying 90 for a setQuote:
Originally Posted by Redhaze