That's what I was told. But I never took mine out.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4g63lover
Sent from my Galaxy S4
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That's what I was told. But I never took mine out.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4g63lover
Sent from my Galaxy S4
^^^ I would like to confirm that there is a 14mm bolt with an unthreaded tip keeping the assembly from coming out.
Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk
the bolt in the red box is what im talking about
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps02ed66e3.jpg
Yes you have to pull it out to get the levers out
It doesn't show that in any of the manuals, so there is an extra bolt that needs to be removed, good to know if I ever have an F5M42 come in. For you I4 guys does it come out nice and easy once that retainer bolt is removed?
That trans, so nice an clean.
Im surprised it doesn't explain how to disassemble the tranny in the FSM. Over at club3g someone has lsd tutorial on v6 tranny and they talked about a spring on the shaft and to note its orientation for when you put it back together, but still it wasn't really clear of what he was talking about. It must not be that hard to figure out, I forgot that I have a spare tranny under the workbench so Ill mess with that one first and see what the deal is.
Keep me posted cuz I'd love to take mine off and disassemble the linkage.Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_01
Sent from my Galaxy S4
Does anyone know the part numbers of the detent bolts, I called the dealer and they didn't know jack what I was talking about.
Which bolt are you referring to?? The one I used in my reference??Quote:
Originally Posted by oakrdrs187
Sent from my Galaxy S4
The ones with metal balls. Look like big BBs
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Not sure which ones are those. If you could be more specific I cold try to find them for u.Quote:
Originally Posted by oakrdrs187
Sent from my Galaxy S4
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Heres a little update, I picked up the car this past Monday from the fab shop and it came out awesome! Im so happy with it I cant wait to till next year to run it. It really gives the car a different feel, now I sit lower then before so its gonna take some getting used to and its a little bit of a pain ass to get in and out of but this what I wanted in the end. I need to get rid of these JDM rear view mirrors for some USDM joints cause the right side mirror doesn't let me see correctly and now that I sit lower and strapped in with a harness and neck restraint its gonna be more difficult to see out the right side. If anyone local wants to trade PM me.
The fab shop also said they can help me with my torque steer problem by fabbing up a half shaft for the passenger side which be awesome but that will probably a next "off season" project. Ill just have to deal with it till then.
So on with some pics, since I was forced to turn in the plates on this car this how I have to wash it since my garage landlord wont let me use his water spigot.
The night before I dropped it off at the shop
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps37589415.jpg
At the shop, seat brackets getting fabbed up. All these pics were provided to me by them.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse432e324.jpg
Most of the cage done.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psd2f29c71.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psb1ba831f.jpg
Done!
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps5caf4e4b.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps40425369.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps064ba12d.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps1aa61f24.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps4d528e5c.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psaaded858.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps93846613.jpg
Piper Motorsport in Leesburg VA did all the work, I was really impressed by not only the craftsmanship but with their new facility and of course customer service. Ive been to them before for my intercooler piping and exhaust work and I was hooked. Even though they deal with Grand-Am race cars, high dollar vettes, Porches etc. they gave my car the same treatment as they would any other. I got one on one consultation when I dropped off the car both times, the first visit was for about 30 min uninterrupted for the IC and exhaust piping and this visit was for about an hour uninterrupted. Service like this really makes going back a no brainer. They got my car up on facebook if you wanna chaeck it out.
Next DIY project is gonna be aluminum door panels!!!
Get the Mirage glass for the Jdm mirrors. I was told that should fix the viewing issue. I haven't tried it myself. But I know Denver did. Cage looks great. What did that cost all done??
Sent from my Galaxy S4
Very nice! I hope this car is around for a long time!
Cage is built to what specs?
Spdracr I went for broke on this lets just put it like that lol. The cage is good for NASA and SCCA w2w competition classes but TT is the most I plan on doing and TT rules don't require a cage. Its good to have though.
That's awesome, thanks for the galant porn
Sex. You sir are living my dream if I didn't use the galant as a dual purpose vehicle. I'm interested in that half shaft solution you mentioned because I too am having some torque steer issues.
I guess I forgot you have no interior in it at all lol. I was gonna ask how tight it was along the doors with the panels installed.
The only OE intermediate shaft for the 4G64/4G69 is the one off the 04-06 Ralliart Lancer. I which I knew the length.Quote:
Originally Posted by greddy
Ohh, I can't wait to see this in person! It's supposed to get warmer later this week, I can run to Crazy Ray's and get a set of USDM mirrors if you have no luck with the Mirage glass or anyone else swapping for the JDM's. I would swap but my color don't match and I'd be freaked out about not being able to see out my mirror.
Im actually gonna hold on to the mirrors for now. Im thinking if I get a spot mirror it will help the blind spot I have. Sorry to get anyones hopes up but Im having a hard time letting these go lol.
Even with the mirage glass the adjustment maxes out. For race purposes I would stick to what works best and is safest, which means go back to stock. As for me on the street and for jdm sake I deal with the wide view I get from the jdm mirrors, I got used to it. Its like having that wide view clip-on to the rear view but on the driver side mirror I get to see the blindspot with minimal effort but it appears far away.
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well heres my update, hopefully I can get it it done before the kids wake up. So I took on a whole bunch of projects this winter and logged about 46 hours so far in the past two months, that's working nights and almost every Saturday. All I have left is to the bleed the brakes, take it to the dyno for a re-fresher in two Saturdays and add some roll bar padding.
Fabbed up some aluminum door panels
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps92a6e802.jpg
Was able to keep the controls in the door
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psfc5e8862.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psc1a40cb6.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psa5c58aba.jpg
Added mesh to the front bumper opening to keep all the crap out my intercooler
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps8da7b0c2.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps36005fa3.jpg
Riveted and done
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps4d5882b7.jpg
Decided to clean up some wiring and move the important gauges into eye view on top of the dash. Also added some junctions terminals for the gauges to neaten up the wiring. Top one is the switched 12v the middle is power for the lights and bottom is ground.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps548603ac.jpg
Fabbed up and aluminum panel for the gauges and any other future gauges, switches or circuit breakers that need to be panel mounted.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psff525174.jpg
2" holes cut
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psc6f51dd6.jpg
Done
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps09940b55.jpg
Harness's finally came
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psad5d32c5.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps28327d9d.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psdf786c4e.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps12dd07fb.jpg
So I think figured out why I was leaking gear oil from on top of the tranny, at first I thought the selector lever cover was leaking but then I looked real close and thought why is there a small opening on the cover with traces of oil all around.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps6ff6f5d3.jpg
Well I was missing the rubber plug, Im gonna feel real stupid if this was the reason.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps315ee1c9.jpg
Got the Grimmspeed mounted and wired to convert to electronic boost control. Not wired to the AEM yet the tuner is gonna do that on the dyno day so I don't fuck it up lol.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse4bec3b2.jpg
Lastly my attempt to eliminate or at least soften the torque steer. I stumbled upon a lancer build on evom by chance and this guy swapped an 06 2.4 ralliart motor and tranny into his older base lancer. In his pics he showed the intermediate shaft installed and Im like that 69 block looks identical to my 64 block. I dug around the net for some pics of the back of both blocks and they looked so close that I had to take a chance. I picked up the parts from my local dealer and went for it.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps2b7c29dd.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps9b612a8b.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps4aa2211f.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps96e1c3f5.jpg
Test fit went well so I ordered an axle from NAPA.
I had to chase the threads cause the bolts didn't want to thread in all the way but now there fine.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psd1fe810a.jpg
Got the axle and installed without a problem. The length seems correct and everything seems fine so far so Im gonna go with it. I did take some measurements before I order the axle and they were the same as on their spec sheet but I was so anxiuous to get it on that I never check the axle measurements once I actually had it my hands. Like I said though its seems to fit fine.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps1ac18dca.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps9a135df2.jpg
Its kinda hard taking good pics in that area
Other things I did were change the brake lines and have the shop I go to change the piston seals in the front calipers.
Well be headed down to VIR at the end of March for the season opener, I cant wait!
These pics were from January
Behind my DD
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps18d3cd1f.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse5faac3f.jpg
Nice work. I'll be looking forward to seeing video of how well it performs this Spring.
Damn I had seen that the 4g69 lancers had that intermediate shaft but wasn't brave enough to invest the money to find out if it fit, thats great bro car look great, I'm really interested in a review about new axle ;)
Going to do that axle mod now. I love the aluminum door panels homie. Car is looking real good. Inspiring me to get mine done
Great work, love the cage and great choice in harness.
Any chance you could list he part numbers you used for the axle swap?
Sure but I wont be back at the garage for a few days and that's where I got all my notes. For the record I haven't tested it yet let alone put the wheels back on and set on the ground so I cant say its a success yet until I bring it to the dyno next week and let them beat the shit out it. But yea I should be able post everything Tuesday. The other thing is you have to make sure your block has the bosses drilled and tapped otherwise you cant do it.
When I first got the parts I pulled my spare block to test fit and the bosses where completely blank, I was like fuckkkk!! But then I checked my block in the car and they were drilled and tapped. How lucky was that because the spare block was the one that was actually in the car in my first build but then the thrust washer seized and I had rebuild everything with the current block. I cant tell you how relieved I was. Here some pics of what Im talking about.
The bosses are marked with yellow paint marker
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...pse1475959.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps599bf621.jpg
So check the back of your block first.
Parts cost around $250 and the axle from NAPA was $69 with a $55 core. I hope they don't get mad when I send them my old torn driver side axle as acore.
Good work, love how much of a track car this has turned into!
that axle swap! its a must omg, and im loving this build.
This thread makes me
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/...eda877ce_o.jpg
Yes sir!
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Why not just drill and tap the block? Good bits measure carefully and use plenty of cutting oil and it should be fine. Keep track of depth as well.
I guess you can do that but I would probably never attempt it for a few reasons and Ill explain why. You would have to get the holes completely square to get the factory fit, if the holes are crooked it would probably work but not something I would be comfortable with. I would rather a machine shop with the proper tools handle this task and the block would need to be out of the car for that which at that point I would just get the correct block. If the holes are not aligned then your gonna have to hog out the holes on the shaft bracket not a big deal I guess. Your also drilling a 10mm hole into a cast iron block so your gonna have to start with a small pilot bit and keep stepping it up, again its very difficult to get a square hole when drilling by hand and even more when you have to step hole sizes up. Not to mention your working a very tight area and getting a regular hand held drill in there seems impossible, you would need a right angle drill and Im not even sure that fit.
I know Im pessimistic at times but I cant help it. Im not saying it cant be done Im just saying why I probably wouldn't attempt it. The first thing you have to do is see if a drill actually fits back there.
This car is a prime example of "because racecar" lol, nice work as usual
Very impressed with the commitment and work carried out. Would love to track my car but to good a daily for that. Love ur work!
Thanks everybody it means a lot.
So I thought more and more about drilling and tapping the block for the shaft bracket and now I would probably attempt. I would pull the engine and tranny to do it though because honestly I don't think a hand drill would fit back there.
Yes I'm just going to freehand a couple axle bracket holes in grey cast iron with a corded drill and a squirt bottle of cutting oil. Might as well dremel my heads out while they're on the motor at the same time.
I love this car, and envy your cage. If you really think you're going to drill and tap cast iron you're either nuts or you have some extremely extremely expensive consumer tools...