Installed my BC coilovers
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Installed my BC coilovers
^^Nice
Long Day--Today i got a alignment but wasn't easy, first shop, sent me to the waiting room, I wanted to see what was done to my car, and tell the guy it was fully camber adjustable, (nobody around here knows what a camber kit is lol or coilovers) obviously I was going to watch at a safe distance but the owner got all mad with my dad and me cause he wanted us to wait elsewhere, so he told us he wouldn't touch my car and that we had to leave, so F*** that guy.
So I go to the shop I normally go, everything was perfect, the owner was nicer than ever, well 2 hours waiting and the aligning machine breaks bummer, so I it was getting to my nerves 2 shops no alignment.
I called a 3rd shop, I called first, they said to go right away because there wasn't anyone in line, so I rush over there, tell the guy I was there to get a alignment and you know the guy says the machine wasn't working, at this point I'm wondering WHY MEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!
But then the manager tells me that the machine was working and I finally would get my alignment, the guy was really cool, got excited when he saw that the car was 5 spd, another tech came and also asked about the 5 spd swap lol I'm unique over here (obviously I didn't take the credit for the idea). THE END sorry I had to get it out...
Thats whats up^
Cars with the low, I love it fellas!!
I still have to mess with it so hopefully tomorrow I maxed the fuck out of them lol corey got stuck coming out my driveway
installing prothane inserts is no fun!!! but the car pulls like a mofo lol no more hesitation since i ripped my driver side and front mount.
I told him to get them to spec, so they follow what the machine says. I warn ya over here i bet mine were the first c/o's that guy has seen in his life, so no corner balancing or fancy alignment. I don't know what to think because I'm a perfectionist and If it were me doing the alignment I would've made them identical side to side but this is what he got the specs to be: I don't like the rear camber but I don't know. What do you guys think? It was $25 so it isn't expensive.
Convergencia=Toe Caida=Camber
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...984066_n-1.jpg
That does seem like a big difference side to side, next time I'm home I'll dig through my folders of receipts and see if I still have mine from my last few alignments....maybe Dave will chime in and educate us haha
Looks like they got the toe right on. Camber adjust in the rear is a PITA to get corrected, and may be maxed out on one side. But it all looks very good for being lowered. My Galant is sitting around the factory negative camber limit (-2.5 in the rear), and basically zero to -.5 in front.
Well I'm a college student, so no money, I got all 4 brand new tires so I just want them to last, I insisted the guy to get the rear side with - 1.5 camber at least closer to the other wheel (I have the -1*/+3.0* camber kit on the rear so they could easily get it to -1* on each side in my opinion) but he said those sensors are really sensitive and that if he lowered the car and raised it again with the lift those measurements would change since they are so minimal, and that if he touched it, it would be hard to get closer.
The difference with new tires and alignment is night and day, my car had the rear toe at like -.7 on both wheels so imagine that ride was shit and my car ate the potenzas, with 140 treadware that were on the 350z wheels, in like 2 weeks (I drive 40 miles to and from college 4 days a week).
Maybe later I'll get a better alignment, but everywhere I take it they are afraid of the Mighty Camber Kit, you should see the look on their faces lol
Sorry I'm writing so much...
I'll post a pic of my stats in the morning, for some reason I didn't need a camber kit, I must of lucked out on using the discontinued eibach I4 kit rear springs. And V6 in the front
HTC EVO 4G
Depends on what the cars original camber and toe specs were, then it also matters what the reduced ride height did to the camber and toe, then it matters how much correction you can get from a camber kit.
If the car, stock, was sitting around -1.5* in the rear (which it should be anyways), lowering the vehicle may have changed that to as much as -4*. Then, the hypothetical, with the camber kit he can correct 2.5*, but if possible, you leave some room for later corrections.
Either way, it is pretty dead on, as good as any other alignment from any decent shop. I did have a few technicians work for me over the years that always wanted everything equal and dead on. O how I miss them guys...
Finally installed the proportioning valve, changed the oil, and installed a gtz sway bar..
Got me a pair of JL W6's, literally cost me nothing. Otherwise I dont think I would have them for how pricey they are. And if you ask me next to each other they both look like sexy bitches.
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...-47-44_118.jpg
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...-48-39_921.jpg
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...-48-54_121.jpg
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...-47-24_530.jpg
^^Wow Vic, nice pickup bro!! What you gonna drive them with?
Foor now all I have is a diamond 600 mono. Which would be enough for 1 speaker. I plan on getting a Fosgate 1000 to really push them closer to what they want, my buddies cost at his shop is insane.
Are they DVC's? And will you need to upgrade your alt to run the RF 1000 amp? I need moar bass myself.
They are DVC in the end you can either get 1 ohm or 4. My diamond is 600 rms at 1 ohm. I probably wont get a bigger alt since the new Punch 1000.1 is digital and very efficient.
Oh okay, I've been reading about the RF amps, they are the business!! I'm trying to keep it all Infinity in my car, but I may have to spring for the RF setup for my bass.
Remember this, Amps used Punch bd1000 for lows, Punch P400-4 mids and highs.
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/...-46-08_852.jpg
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/...-54-34_545.jpg
He went with the same amps I'm trying to get, now being an old car the charging system wasn't great so everything would shut off when hard notes hit. In order for me to tune it, I had to power the system, with my G, So basically the Mustang was not running, just had the stereo playing with my car running on jumper cables to the battery of the Mustang, then I was able to play it loud and not cut out, so it leads me to believe my charging system can handle it, maybe get a good CAP to go with it and a fresh yellow top.
I really want just a single 10 inch and then all new alpine speakers all around. I think I am going to make a Cali style box.
Brand new grey leather steering wheel, it was plastic wrapped and everything, how much would it be on the dealership? no airbag, I want to see if I got it or a good price, so tell me a approx. value
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...65645793_n.jpg
^^You'll find that with low frequencies, a subwoofer's placement isn't important; it'll fill the sound no matter where it is in your car. Mine is only 250W rms driving a 12" in a ported box, and when it hits, you can't tell where the sound is coming from, it sounds like it's coming from the same speakers as the mids and highs. Once you go with a sub, you can never appreciate car audio without one, at least I can't!
I have always had loudness, although I wouldn't drive with it on full blast all the time, but when I needed it, it was there.
^ I used to have the infinity 611a mono and the infinity 7541a 4ch, infinity components front and rear and 12" kicker CVR's, cleanest sytem I ever had.
http://www.crutchfield.com.edgesuite...541A-f_LD.jpeg
JL is sh*t except for the CleanSweep sound processor.
^ JL is actually very good brand. Just overpriced which leads to people saying they aren't good. They aren't good bang for the buck, why do you think kicker is so popular.
Kicker has far more dB Drag history.
I haven't liked JL since 1995 when they first hit the market. Foam surround junk. I had one Orion DVC that was louder than a pair of old school JL's I had back in the day. I've seen far more Kicker's take a beating than any JL's. And I've been to quite a bit of dB drags over the years.
^ well that's just it, you're talking about dB drag's. JL is about clean audio. I do believe Kicker and Orion old and new HIT harder than JL.
Don't get me wrong I'm a huge fan of kicker, always had their subs and always will, these just happened to be free (well just about)
19mm spacers with 56.1mm wheel-centric lip and 67.1mm hub centric bore came in today, wheels go on car tomorrow!! Only five months after I got the damn rims lol!!
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...1/f66c628d.jpg
Yesssssssssssssssss