those 5 drain holes need to be plugged not only cuz the gs doesnt have them, but the 63 head leaves portions of these 5 holes exposed and you dont want something falling in there and causing you problems do u?
Printable View
those 5 drain holes need to be plugged not only cuz the gs doesnt have them, but the 63 head leaves portions of these 5 holes exposed and you dont want something falling in there and causing you problems do u?
Its not as simple tho. Since we have OBD1 and OBD2 harnesses, the GS ECU is not a option for 96-98 guys who will need to pass inspection and the GS ECU just wont communicate with the OBD2 scanner. The best and cheapest option for 96-98 guys is the 96-99 Spyder GS ECUs if you want to stay N/A.
The list continues:
GS cam gears or Adjustable cam gears
Depending on what DOHC thermostat housing you use /1g is better and simpler/ you need the water pipe from water pump to thermostat
lower and upper radiator hoses
these are the freeze plug you need:
1x1/2 inch freeze plug; 2x5/8's freeze plugs, and 2x11/16's freeze plugs
94-95 Engines will need 1g CAS to work with 1g ECU or the GS ECU
96-98 Engines can use 1g CAS, but it needs some rewiring to reverse injector firing order and spark plug firing order, because the 2g Spyder and turbo ECUs cam signal has reversed polarity than 1g GAS.
The other option for 96-98 engines is 97-99 2g Turbo CAS and requires no rewiring.
APR studs /7 bolt engines have bolts, not studs/ are not mandatory, but the better option than OE or OEM 2g DOHC bolts
sorry to jump in but if a wire up a 1g cas can I clock it like a dist. or is it solid mount?
because where it would go looks like a freeze plug
yes 1g CAS is adjustable.
I dont understand whats the second thing youre asking about
where the cas would go there is what looks like a freeze plug...
got it that was what I was talking about, didnt know the 7g cas was gear side
bump
Beautiful looks like it was supposed to be that way. Can you say plug n play. How much did the machine work set you back? very very sweet!
HAHA Leave it to MKO to figure it out! Good job bro! Looks great! Now lets see if we can get it to run:)
bump .....
stil trying to find a complete tutorial on this ...
MKo how much was the machine work/price? anything need to be done to the actual tooth? And could you possibly post more elaborate p[ctures of how much and where it needs to be machined off please? would greatly appreciete this!
did this work?
IDk dude, i found this on another forum and posted the pics here.
Basically, you need to take the distributor apart so only the body and shaft are left. thenyou need to take the 1g CAS apart down to body and shaft. The shop will have to get the pins that hold that little rotor then machine down the distributor shaft so the 1g rotor fits and then machine the distributor body so it looks like 1g CAS
Works great! I used a 92 distributor but I wish I had used the one on mko's pic. It looks like there is more room for adjustment on that one, my wire plug hits the thermostat housing.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1564.jpg
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1561.jpg
Curious as to what spark plug wire you would use .??
You may want to read all pages from beginning to end so you can understand it more clearly. Cas is eliminated so you don't need to do any rewiring. It makes the dohc a fairly simple plug n' play mod. You can stay w/ stock high imp injectors, stock computer and stock uncut harness. Then simply upgrade further as time and budget allows.
I used the stock 7g wires not the cleanest but it works.
I have ha. I figured that but the post about wiring threw me off. This is very cool, shall be running it in the near future
So we have to machine the dist. From mirage/colt. Y can't we just machine our stock dist.
You could, its just the shaft that goes inside the head is too long and you ganna have to use 2-2.5'' studs to keep the distributor in place
look at the shaft from the o-ring down
mirage
http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sel...1__OVERALL.JPG
galant
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8...ompare5jt6.jpg
The 1g CAS has much closer size to the mirage distributor.
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/2...age1141da3.jpg
And you still going to need the end piece off the 1g CAS to be fitted on to teh machined down center shaft
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...cas-180out.jpg
Now we just need to find a way to control timing with the 7g ecu and we will be off to the races!
I also like that it allows you to use an external coil. That means cheap High output blaster coil and nice wide spark plug gaps under boost(better burn, improved mileage)
I always hated the whole internal coil BS with the stock 7g disty.
I'm sure with that mirage disty you could clock it to adjust base timing.
timing? how about just fuel/air with maft? with ignition box and accel coil I have been running .055- .060 spark plug gaps
He meant knock controlled timing
should of known
So with this easy swap can we use the stock 1g cam gears? How do we go about the timing issue and arctic y havnt you done a formal write up for this
I need to be able to control ignition timing to take full advantage of my water/meth injection. I already have a Maf Translator Pro but it doesnt control timing what so ever. Unless, you have a chipped 2g ecu. Im happy that you pulled this off though. However, for people that want to go turbo, I recommend doing this the traditional way so you can take FULL advantage of everything. Either a EPROM ecu from a turbo 2g, Evo ECU, or a flashable ecu from a 2g. Full stand alone would be another option but man, for the power most of us want to make, its not needed.
So back to the distributor. I say again why can't you just machine down the stock distributor. Your already getting the 4g15 one machined. You compared sizes; looks like it's to big to fit the 1g head so it would have plenty of metal to work with....right?
Pictures should explain this to you. Ok, the 7g distributor has a longer shaft and cylinder than the mirage. If you look closely at the mirage cylinder it has a lip that is hollow where the shaft is. Take the lip from that hollow point, on the mirage distributor, and you have dam near the same depth as the 1g CAS. As for the 7g you'd have to cut a good 1.5 inches down and you NEVER know if its a solid piece or not. It would be way less effort to make the mirage one fit. You could probably do that with a dremel tool and a steady hand to be honest. Send me a mirage distributor and a CAS and ill make it work for you. I have a welder, grinder, die grinder, and 2 DOHC heads in my garage.
^^Thank you sooo much bro. I didnt want to answer the question again, cuz I wouldnt be able to keep the caps in lower case if you know what I mean.
Thanks again.
Well I would send you one if I could find one. I went to every yard out here in Vegas save one. I'm hopin they got one....
when building for high HP, the knock sensor is primarily use to monitor knock...people still blow up their motors with or without a knock control ecu.