power wire throgh firewall

i searched through 7 pages of search results, and every time this question came up, it didnt get answered. im trying to get through my firewall to get the power wire for my amp through. i cant find any accessable way besides drilling. i drilled one hole, but i f*d up and i must have been going through the fender or something. so i started a new one further towards the center of the car, and it seems unusually thick, so i dont know if i should keep drilling, or if im drilling through something hidden. what is the best known place to drill through? or better yet, has anyone found a grommet to tap into? all help is greatly appreciated!

okay this is simple. Go inside the car. And look up to the left of the brake pedal. You will see a flap in the carpet. Lift that flap and you can drill through that area. That's where the clutch pedal would be if the car was manual. I have at least 3 holes in that area for all my wiring

awesome, thank you for the quick response. i thought about trying there, but i thought that might be going through the fender. thanks again!

its gonna come thru the other side of the firewall on the driver side of the brake booster. If I were you, I would either go around the hole in silicone or get an automotive grommet for $2 at pep boys or autozone and install that so the wire's insulation doesnt get cut by the sharp metal. If it does, your gonna have a CAR-B-QUE

Go through the firewall as shown in the pictures.

And a tip, drill from the interior to the engine bay, NOT the other way around.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...23_12_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...23_13_full.jpg

Do not skip the grommet?

Trust TGC on that one.

yeah right after i got mrjaydee's resonse, i ran out and took care of it real quick-like. that is the perfect spot. it's kind of deceiving when you compare the bay to the interior and try to get the right spot. i was way too low... i was pleasantly surprised at where the hole ended up. and i did protect the cable with a plastic sleeve as shown in redgalant's photo 8)
thanks for the help

wish i knew this when i wuz running my power wire (a yr or 2 ago) i drilled a hole that came out perfectly in the fuse box on the side of the dash.... yuppp i officially feel stupid now lol.

shit, i just went through the batter and lines into the fender, into the pedal cabin. easy as cheese and no drilling.

Don't put the wire there or in the other two smaller holes around that large one if you plan to do a manual swap - that's the template in the sheetmetal for the clutch master cylinder.

<-- speaks from experience :P

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

Don't put the wire there or in the other two smaller holes around that large one if you plan to do a manual swap - that's the template in the sheetmetal for the clutch master cylinder.

<-- speaks from experience :P

---

Yes, but its an easy move if you end up doing a manual swap.

But why have to make the move any way? Geeze man, I don't understand your logic. :lol:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

But why have to make the move any way? Geeze man, I don't understand your logic. :lol:

---

Its the simplest place to drill for power wire, and MUCH better than going through the fender. Not everything needs to adhere to manual swaps and performance. :lol:

You still don't see what I'm saying... you can run the wire half an inch away from the template and not have to worry about it EVER. 5-speed swaps aren't necessarily about performance - people do them just because they like a stick shift. You need to open your mind a little bit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

You still don't see what I'm saying... you can run the wire half an inch away from the template and not have to worry about it EVER. 5-speed swaps aren't necessarily about performance - people do them just because they like a stick shift. You need to open your mind a little bit.

---

I'm not closed minded. Just merely providing a counterpoint. Not everyone cares for a manual swap. Those that do most likely aren't installing a stereo.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

You still don't see what I'm saying... you can run the wire half an inch away from the template and not have to worry about it EVER. 5-speed swaps aren't necessarily about performance - people do them just because they like a stick shift. You need to open your mind a little bit.

---

I'm not closed minded. Just merely providing a counterpoint. Not everyone cares for a manual swap. Those that do most likely aren't installing a stereo.

---

I think you're being close-minded again... Like I said before, people's priorities change, and to run the cable 1/2" away from the template isn't a BAD idea, is it? You just drill from inside the driver's footwell like you normally would.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

I think you're being close-minded again... Like I said before, people's priorities change, and to run the cable 1/2" away from the template isn't a BAD idea, is it? You just drill from inside the driver's footwell like you normally would.

---

Doesn't really matter to me if its a 1/2" over or not. I drilled it there 7 years ago in my old Galant. Is it really that big a deal where someone drills through the firewall? Not being closed-minded, just asking.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

I think you're being close-minded again... Like I said before, people's priorities change, and to run the cable 1/2" away from the template isn't a BAD idea, is it? You just drill from inside the driver's footwell like you normally would.

---

Doesn't really matter to me if its a 1/2" over or not. I drilled it there 7 years ago in my old Galant. Is it really that big a deal where someone drills through the firewall? Not being closed-minded, just asking.

---

Yes, it's pretty conceited for you to be arguing with me over this rather than just admitting that what I very first suggested is pretty reasonable.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

Yes, it's pretty conceited for you to be arguing with me over this rather than just admitting that what I very first suggested is pretty reasonable.

---

Reasonable yes. Conceited, no. Its not that big a deal to move the wire if you installed a manual transmission. You brought it up, not me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WarmAndSCSI

Yes, it's pretty conceited for you to be arguing with me over this rather than just admitting that what I very first suggested is pretty reasonable.

---

Reasonable yes. Conceited, no. Its not that big a deal to move the wire if you installed a manual transmission. You brought it up, not me.

---

Yes, but I fail to see the logic in having to move it any way if the hole has yet to be drilled. You're the one trying to argue a new point, here.

well i found this in looking for a way to get a wire through for power, but i dont have a drill, so i cant drill a hole through, and i just moved so i dont know many people here...

anyone know of a gromet thats easy to get to from the engine side, and als easy to get to from the interior ?

No, you don't want to run your amp power wire alongside any other wires. Bad idea. It needs its own path.

shoot..... and teh wire i got is too short to go from the bat. along the firewall, through the clutch spot(if i had a drill), and into the trunk :(

i kinda wanted to put it in the trunk cuz that the only wood i can screw it onto...

any other options beyond running it outside ? theres no punch out things in the fire wall are there ? :(

i know with the 8g's if you go through the fender, you can get into the car down by the kickpanel.

Seriously, just buy a drill. If you do any household work you're gonna need one sooner than later.

i think im gonna, i need 1 to mount the amp... and might as well get a metal bit and do this hole... ugh... maybe i should have saved a little money.....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stewi

its gonna come thru the other side of the firewall on the driver side of the brake booster. If I were you, I would either go around the hole in silicone or get an automotive grommet for $2 at pep boys or autozone and install that so the wire's insulation doesnt get cut by the sharp metal. If it does, your gonna have a CAR-B-QUE

---

you need a grommet not silicone. putting silicone will still allow the metal to scrape the wire sheething.

so i ran out and got a drill and gromets... well the gromets are too big, so i wrapped the wire in a ton of electricial tape (about 6 or 7 layers) so thats how it is till tomorow when i have more time to buy the rite size gromet

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 98GalantDriver

so i ran out and got a drill and gromets... well the gromets are too big, so i wrapped the wire in a ton of electricial tape (about 6 or 7 layers) so thats how it is till tomorow when i have more time to buy the rite size gromet

---

how you going to get the grommet around the wire if it's already ran and connected?

cut one side, wrap around the wire, glue or tape cut shut, then slide into hole in fire wall

on another note, do i hook the remote lead to the pos or neg side of an accessory that on only when the cars on ?

hey warm can i see a pic of where u ran your power wire if u have one, im sure its just a little left of the clutch template but i wanna be sure

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 98GalantDriver

cut one side, wrap around the wire, glue or tape cut shut, then slide into hole in fire wall

on another note, do i hook the remote lead to the pos or neg side of an accessory that on only when the cars on ?

---

that is a horrible was to do that. you're going to short something out.

and there is only a pos acc. there is no neg.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fliegendaffe

you need a grommet not silicone. putting silicone will still allow the metal to scrape the wire sheething.

---

I used silicone sealant, it worked beautifully and without problems of wire chaffing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RedGalant2k1

I used silicone sealant, it worked beautifully and without problems of wire chaffing.

---

yet

so im gonna wedge the grommet in my way tomorrow... then when i get a chance im gonna buy a longer wire... the 1 i got was 16feet, and i need about 20is to get it nicely wired and what not, but no one up here has wire by the foot :(

so im sure my grommet will hold up till i can replace the wirethen when i do that, ill get the right size grommet

just make sure you have the proper gauge and all

the gauge i have now just fits in the hole, so i gotta look at what size that is, then get that gauge wire, but by the foot.....

know a good place that sells it... like major company thats everywhere..... checked advanced auto, but they only have the sub kits, not BTF wire :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pinoyesv6

i know with the 8g's if you go through the fender, you can get into the car down by the kickpanel.

---

That's what I do, it kinda makes my hood stand up a bit but didn't have to drill anything so im not too upset

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Serstylz2

That's what I do, it kinda makes my hood stand up a bit but didn't have to drill anything so im not too upset

---

if you go through the access hole between the fuse box and the headlight, you don't have to worry about it messing with the hood.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pinoyesv6

if you go through the access hole between the fuse box and the headlight, you don't have to worry about it messing with the hood.

---

That is what I did initially, but I could not get it into the car by the kick panel. I just ended up running it around by where the door jambs shut, and left it there. :rolleyes:

Thanks to you guys, I found the right spot to drill the hole in the fire wall now, and I got my 4 gauge wire run through. :D