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Engine choice
ok im pretty much giving up on my idea of putting a total evo under the car including the awd drive train and so on .. so what do you guys suggest i put remember this car is a total rebuild engine body everything what i do want in the car is
v4 or v6
2.0 or higher
awd drive train
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Since you are in austrailia, I don't know what to recommend to you. I was toying with the idea of swapping a 2G Eclipse GSX drivetrain under my Galant, but that car is just as alien to you as the Evo IV is to me. Do they not have any of those baby Evos over there with the 4G93?T 1.8L engine over there? Lancer GLXs? I think they were called. Maybe their engines have the right orientation. You guys have Protons too which are Mitsus I think, perhaps something out of one of those would work.
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oh im not worried about importing i can import what ever engine i want from overseas .. the cost is not a problem i just wanted a few ideas thats all
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Then by far the best choice IMO would be a 6-bolt 4G63. If your car is like what we call a 7G Galant with motor on right, intake on left, then you want this engine. It has the most aftermarket support and is capable of 800hp+ with forged internals, or around 400whp on stock bottom end. For us, it comes out of 1G Eclipses MY90-92. Some 93's had them, but sometime during that year they switched to the 7-bolt. Those engines might bolt in a bit easier (the 1G 7-bolt) but aren't considered as strong. Even worse, the 2G 7-bolt is known to have issues with crankwalk and I would avoid them for a high power build up.
The 6-bolt 4G63 also came in JDM Galant VR-4's, which we call 6G's. Probably as far back as '86 or '87 models. Some people build hybrids out of 2.4L blocks using turbo heads off of 4G63's. This engine is known as the 4GCS and is common in early 90's Hyundai Sonatas. Whatever this car is known as over in you part of the world, the combination of a big turbo and 2.4L of displacment is the new craze amongst American DSM enthusiasts.
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i'd just do the evo3 swap with tranny bcuz the evo3 would probably the easiest 4 u to find and its tranny makes this the fastest evo. if not look 4 the evo7 biggest bang (i haven't seen the jdm evo8 engine so i cant speak 4 the evo8)
ok i know i'm gonna get a warning or something and this is probably not the place to say this but if the dohc g4cs is a new craze we should see a huge increase in our parts since the g4cs is the 4g64??
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GPTourer)</div><div class='quotemain'>Then by far the best choice IMO would be a 6-bolt 4G63. If your car is like what we call a 7G Galant with motor on right, intake on left, then you want this engine. It has the most aftermarket support and is capable of 800hp+ with forged internals, or around 400whp on stock bottom end. For us, it comes out of 1G Eclipses MY90-92. Some 93's had them, but sometime during that year they switched to the 7-bolt. Those engines might bolt in a bit easier (the 1G 7-bolt) but aren't considered as strong. Even worse, the 2G 7-bolt is known to have issues with crankwalk and I would avoid them for a high power build up.
The 6-bolt 4G63 also came in JDM Galant VR-4's, which we call 6G's. Probably as far back as '86 or '87 models. Some people build hybrids out of 2.4L blocks using turbo heads off of 4G63's. This engine is known as the 4GCS and is common in early 90's Hyundai Sonatas. Whatever this car is known as over in you part of the world, the combination of a big turbo and 2.4L of displacment is the new craze amongst American DSM enthusiasts.</div>
well since he's overseas 7-bolt 4g63 is better :wink:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>but if the dohc g4cs is a new craze we should see a huge increase in our parts since the g4cs is the 4g64??</div>
What GPTourer meant was that you can do the DOHC headswap to the hyundai engine and make it a 2.4 4g63... it's not exactly the 4g64, though...
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nah i don't really want to go to the point of head changes i don't think this car is more of a cruiser then a racer all i want is the awd and single turbo added thats all im gonna do as well as a decent size intercooler and massive air filter
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well whatever your decision is this is your car. keep us updated bcuz you are doing a all wheel drive train, and i'm very sure many people are interested in this
edit:
while we're at engine choices, i'm in the process of choosing an engine myself. i'm tinking about doing a 4g63t engine swap or the 4g64/4g63 hybrid. 4g63t = 2.0 turbo topend but 4g64/63 = 2.4 lowerend. both about the same horsies and both about the same price. any input would be useful
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Just find a wrecked 7g vr4. What engine do you currently have? Your best bet is to use a vr4 drivetrain and the 6a12tt. But things will still have to be relocated, fabricated and moved. I know in the US galants, the fuel tank has to be moved or replaced with the awd one. LOts of things need welded. Its just a lot of work overall.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE("Hodgson316)</div><div class='quotemain'>
well since he's overseas 7-bolt 4g63 is better Â*:wink: Â*
</div>
For a big power build up, I would avoid the 7-bolt for fear of CW. Actually for any swap I would avoid them because of that problem. It would be a shame to do all that work converting a car to AWD and a turbo swap and then have it walk. But if importing an engine is out of the question, then maybe you have no choice.
Which brings me to my next point. If all you were doing was a turbo swap, I'd say go for the correct oriented 4G63. But if you want to do both drivetrain and engine, and they actually have 7G-Vr4's, I'd have to say just sell your car and get a used VR4.
I am not 100% sure, but you have to make sure you match TC's with rear ends from like vehicles. So an Evo engine and tranny hooked up to a rear end from a 6a12TT Galant might not have the same gear ratios designed to work together and you could end up burning out your viscous coupling. So lets say you find a whole wrecked Evo III or a whole wrecked Galant VR-4 with drivetrain intact and want to swap everything under your car. All that money could be used to just buy a decent used Evo III or Galant VR-4 to begin with. We don't have either of those cars readily availble to us.
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Evo III 4g63t is a 7bolt. 7bolts made overseas do not crankwalk. Only the US 7bolts :wink:
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>Evo III 4g63t is a 7bolt. Â*7bolts made overseas do not crankwalk. Â*Only the US 7bolts :wink:</div>
That topic has been debated over on the DSM forums, and I'm not sure I'm convinced. I'm not doubting your statement, but I have a problem with how you put it. First, what is a US 7-bolt? My engine was made in Japan just like the Evo 3 motor. People have opned up "JDM" motors and have found nothing different on the inside then what they find on "USDM" engines. The differences lie in the injectors, manifolds and turbos all external pieces. If there were a ready supply of english speaking EVo III owners on the dsm sites we could compare our findings, but I can't just dismiss the whole thing as only a US pehnomenoa.
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2g 7bolts crankwalked the most. 1g 7bolts didnt crankwalk nearly as much, its even considered rare. I have never heard of a 7bolt out of an Evo crankwalking. Now I dont know a whole lot of people using them, but this is just what I have been told. It doesnt matter though, my jdm 6gvr4 motor is a 6bolt 8)
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hodgson316)</div><div class='quotemain'>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>but if the dohc g4cs is a new craze we should see a huge increase in our parts since the g4cs is the 4g64??</div>
What GPTourer meant was that you can do the DOHC headswap to the hyundai engine and make it a 2.4 4g63... it's not exactly the 4g64, though...</div>
Right, its not a 4G64, but it is a "4G" series engine so the head is compatible. The main difference is that it is a 6-bolt so the chances for CW are virtually nil. Some people claim this the "only" choice for someone wanting a 2.4 DOHC turbo engine. But now some tuners are doing 2.4 using 7-bolt Galant blocks. Still, another option is to just use the crank from these engines and make a 2.2/3L stroker. Both require varying degrees of modification, but the N/T 2.4 blocks require some machining to accept the head for turbo use.
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In australia we don't the VR4 galant or the evo both would have to be import car's but would it just be easier to import all the vr4 underpinings from a g7 one.
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ok ill break it down and make it simple
http://m-cgi.com/euphoria/dicecustoms/
that may help
im taking the engine / drive train and every mechanical bit and electronic bit out of the car rebuilding her from the ground up so if a VR4 AWD drive train fits in it fine and as well as the engine then thats what i should go for right ??
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Ask your local tuners which engine they like the best. I am guessing that they will say the 4G63T. It would be cheaper to work on because it has one less turbo, one less cylinder bank, one less head and so on. OTOH it might be easier to get Galant AWD componets under a Galant rather then Evo parts - that's the pricer of the two conversions so I would research into the how's of getting AWD in your car and let that determine which engine I'd choose.
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im still only shopping around but is this any where near where i should be looking in the way of tranny
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...1&rd=1&tc=photo
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Yes, but that will lock you into using 6G Galant VR4, Evo I-III, or Eclipse components. It won't bolt up to a 6Axx motor and probably not to any rear end from such a car.
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well im not looking for the 6 Cylinder engines
i want a 4g63 engine what one im not sure of yet depending on the componentry need .. awd system is my main concern
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if you want this car to be a cruiser and not a racer, then don't do the AWD. For a couple of reasons. Number one, your car was not designed to have the AWD in it. Number two, you will not have any fun with the car when speeds exceed 50mph.
I had AWD DSM for about a year, and AWD came in handy while going to the mountains, and off the line at a trafic light. AWD kick ass with grip, but FWD kicks ass on the top end, and eventually they even out if the car doesn't have too much power (~250HP). Plus FWD gets better gas mileage. My DSM got about 14-17mpg...sucks.
EVO 3 4g63 is the best choice, it is still considered to be the fastest EVO ever built.
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RWD!!! Best of both worlds https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ult/tongue.gif (if it were possible I'd do it in a heart beat)
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yeah its a cruiser .. and i just like all 4 paws to the floor .. and all built up area's in australia are about 50kph anyway so its not like she needs to be massively fast .. she's gonna be a luxuary car in most ways
i originally wanted to go evo but i wasn't sure about the gear box and drive train would fit under the shell
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and a RWD galant just sounds dangerous lol
you could probably do it if you had a donor car for all the mechanical parts
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(eu4ia)</div><div class='quotemain'>and a RWD galant just sounds dangerous lol</div>
exactly 8)
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I have heard few years back, some guy in hawaii did a full evo swap in his mirage. basically you would not be able to tell them apart. he even did the AWD in the car. By the time all the bills were added up, he could've imported a real evo and made it street legal.
Just some food for thought. I know that you can import a VR-4 of any year into USA, and there's a company in California that is licensed to convert the car to US spec. Ofcourse the price of the car will most likely double. Maybe this would be another option for you...improting a VR-4.
I have also seen a Dodge Avenger that was converted to AWD...it did not look safe at all. The rear end could break off anymoment.
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??? 94 model would be6A12TT.
4G63 turbo package is $3200 or Evo version $3500. Complete rear axle
assembly $1000.
Fuel tank and tailshaft we could include.
Bob, Adelaide Jap Imports
All Prices quoted in Aust$.
www.adelaidejap.com.au
ok this i what ive been priced so far ... what else am i missing im askign them if the 4G63 Turbo kit comes with AWD Drivetrain / Gearbox
yeah i know the money adds up when you doing a whole engine / drive train change but awd galants arn't in australia and australia has shitty import laws .. the only galant's allowed to be imported are the 89 vr4 .. i know stupid rule otherwise i would just import a G8 from New Zealand or Japan
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these are australian prices mind you
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Dark Anghell)</div><div class='quotemain'>By the time all the bills were added up, he could've imported a real evo and made it street legal.</div>
Not quite. A Mirage conversion is really about the only choice for a person to have an early body style Evo and be street legal. In other words, the car could be legally registered, tagged and insurancd (as a Mirage) and be driven on public roads. The government and Mitsubishi will not let you bring *ANY* Evolution into the U.S. and legally drive it on the highway. There are exceptions of course: press cars and dealer cars that can only stay for one year and either be exported or crushed, competition cars that can be used in off road rallys but *never* be driven on the street. So if you want an Evo I-VI style car to drive, a Mirage conversion isn't that bad a way to go. A tired old Mirage with say 100K+ plus is like, free - maybe a few hundred for the old ones, up to like 3K for a late 90's. Then I figure 10-15K for parts and labor.
So we have those same tough importation laws too. I have heard of a guy with an late 80's Galant VR-4 that works for one of the big DSM shops, but since that car actually existed in this country in that same body and generation, maybe he found some loophole, or maybe he's just rolling dirty, I don't know.
The price for parts is cool, but that whole rear subframe has to be redone, or cut out and replaced. Most imported engines or front clips will come mated with the tranny/TC, but the driveshaft and rearend will probably be on you to find seperately. Unless you can buy a half cut, back of a car. Then again, you may need a custome drive shaft due to the length of your car, and possibly custom axels. You might also have to factor in the cost of new hubs, rotors and wheels too.
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whats the big deal with bringing an evo to the states why are they so tough on it?
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im not 100% on imported cars and us regulations. the glass on the cars need to be switched out with shatterresistance glass also other parts of the car like crash support n safety n stuff. also if u notice the hp drop from jdm cars and us cars is because of emissions.
edit: also we can bring evos here we can bring jdm here they just need to be converted to us regulations. they brought the skyline here why not the evo. i've heard you can take another route in bring a jdm car here. when you go register the car you can supposedly put it under race only.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(know_fun)</div><div class='quotemain'>we can bring jdm here they just need to be converted to us regulations. they brought the skyline here why not the evo. </div>
"They" being Motorex, invested tens of thousands of dollars to bring the Skyline over. The average collector doesn't have the resources to import and crash test several cars, invest in costly emisions conversion and offer warranties and service for their customers. That's they charge you ~90 grand for a used R34 (illegal in California BTW) that's worth around 30-45 back in Japan. R32's and 33's can be made CARB legal, but the big mark up is there as well. All this is only possible because Nissan of America did not put up any resistence, unlike Mitsubishi. Mitsu doesn't want any competition with a car they spent a lot of money to make legal for U.S. They want U.S buyers to buy new Evos from them, not used cars they've already profited from year earlier. If you ever have time (like a day or two) go to evolutionm.net and do a search for "evolution imports" and you'll get the whole drawn out convuleted story. Granted it had more to do with VII's being brought in, it still applies to I-VI's too.
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Oh dear... For the sheer amount of cash your going to have to spend to do this, WHY NOT IMPORT A WHOLE ONE FROM NZ. Shipping over the ditch isn't that much, just import it and don't register it, then swap over damn near everything (I believe the rear floorpan still fits the 4WD components, however your suspension WILL be different.) and have a V6 VR4. Put it this way - when my old cars wreck got auctioned off, it went for <span style='font-size:25pt;line-height:100%'>$1200</span>. Even factoring in shipping, you'd have every single component needed for your conversion, for less than that engine importer is trying to rip you off for. Just some food for thought.
What engine is in yours now? I'm assuming it'll be either an n/a 4G63, or n/a 6A11/6A12. If you just want a cruiser, why have 4WD? It'll just weigh more and suck more gas.
Failing that, you CAN get 8G VR4's in australia, even "speed" magazine had a write up on one which had been imported a while ago.
No matter how you look at it, you're looking at a significant outlay of cash to achieve this, if your not seriously interested in racingthe thing then don't bother with the 4wd setup, I get the feeling it'll cause you a whole lot of issues for not a lot of gain, since judging by your website you dont really know as much about this as you try and give the impression of.
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i never said i know alot .. its just the start point .. and i want the awd because i prefer the awd car's a personal thing not for another reason .. and australian laws don't allow for importation of galants to australia unless they are 89 or before .. and i know this because i checked into it a while ago.
Australian laws suck ass totally.
and im nto after a V6 anyway all i want is a 4.
at the moment im just trying to sort all i need to know this is my first project car.
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Okay, my bad, your website says youre after a V6 as well.
So anyway, what engines in your car now? I've seen 4G93s, 4G63's, 6A11s and 6A12s (normal ones, mivec, and TT) all put into this bodyshell, and all from factory. Depending on which engine you have now, kinda dictates which one you *should* put in as a replacement. If its got a 4G63 in it now, get hold of one from either an early evo or an older VR4, it'll be a very painless installation. If it has a 6A12, my advise is to stick with it. Its a much smoother, rev happy engine than the 4G's, plus it'll be unique in oz - which I get the feeling might be a bit more important! Also - theres enough power there in stock form to push 1450+ kilos of VR4 to a mid 12 second 1/4. You'll be spending a hell of a lot more on an old 4G63 to do the same.
Also, take a look underneath the rear of your car - is there room for the rear diff and associated bits and pieces? If not, I'd personally advise looking down the "buy another car" avenue, purely from a "it'll cost you a freakin fortune" viewpoint. If there is, then either flick me an email, or start looking through some kiwi sites for a wrecked 7G vr4, they even come in the same body style you have. Put it this way, if your car shares the same floorpan and has room for everything, then you can grab the driveline out of a wrecked E84 and bung it in there. Its as simple as that. But I can't help but wonder just why the AWD aspect is such a huge issue, okay, its a hell of a lot better than FWD, but getting hold of a decent gearbox with a front LSD and keeping the car FWD will keep your costs down HUGELY, and the car will still drive just fine. I'll leave that question up to your wallet.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to kill your idea off. Its just something you really need to think through, and if your not doing the work yourself, visit a workshop and take a deep breath, it won't come cheaply.
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Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Hatch, auto V6, EFI, ULP, twin turbo, ABS, power steer, power windows, power mirrors, air conditioned, climate air conditioning, cruise, central locking, alarm, alloys, CD player, tint, very special car, test drive and see, 90000kms, $12990, WJK-588. LVD181168 GTR Auto, 44 Main North Road PROSPECT 08-8269 3000
Okay, thats the price for an AUTO TT in australia... See, you could have one! Should try getting in touch with him, I'm guessing it'll cost less than our current plan.
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i wounder if its underside is the same .. there is no use in me buying one if im gonna replace every part on her anyway .. because i want it to be a brand new car practically
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By "replacing every part anyway" do you mean whole new diffs, gearbox, the lot? Chances of anything dieing other than the centre diff or gearbox are VERY slim, and a rebuild will bring them back to "as-new" spec anyway. Replacing the whole driveline will put your budget way over what needs to be spent, but hey, thats your perogative. Me, I'd rather be spending that kinda cash on beer/more go fast bits/a GTR. Whatever floats your boat.
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what i want is a G8 but they weren't released in australia and import laws won't allow them .. but i also want a brand new car .. hence why im doing a rebuild and this is not my main car remember .. i have a car to get around in this can take a yr or 2 to build