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Hey Guyz! I have Galant ES '98.When I drive normally car runs good but when i floor the gas RPM goes up to 3000 and it stops it tha thingi shakes and car makes weird sound and its kinda shaking/stoping , when i let the gas go and press it again slowly cars accelerate no problem , any guess??? Is it Transmision? or One of the Cylinders??
does it go past 3000 during normal driving?
When you drive it normally the car drives perfectly fine? It revs through the powerband and rpms fine and shifts and all that good stuff?
Does the shaking/stopping and weired sounds only happen when you floor the car?
yea when i drive normally , car drives perfectly fine , it can pass 3000 rpm , it only happens when i floor the gas , also when car is on neutral i can floor the gass and rpm goes up to 7000 n its fine its only when while driving i floor the gas then it stops on around 3000 and it shakes and makes weird sound and doesnt accelerate. Also after that happend 1st time yesterday , Check Engine light popped up.
id say front O2 sensor, but you should get it scanned
No i dont think thats it cuz i dont have either o2 sensor in my exhaust.(only temp guys dont jump down my neck) But my car runs perfectly fine.
Since you got a CEL...get is scanned and get the code. From the code we can probably see what the problem is.
I don't think its transmission related..but I could be wrong. If there was a transmission problem it would be showing even under "normal" driving...unless if its some fluke. Does it do this all the time when you floor it?
Go to a autozone and get it scanned and get the code. Post it here and I also created a thread in with all the OBD2 codes listed.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=27924
yup thats what im going to do , im goin to autozone in a minute , ill post the code soon! Thx!
PO303 is the CODE guyz! Guy in AutoZone said those are sparkplugs , one of my friend said that too , other option on the list form autozone is Vacuum Leak.
Any advice? You agree with that?
plugs, wires, distributor cap, bad fuel
guy said that in order to turn check engine off i have change spark plug but also ill change distribution cap , rotor-ignition , all wires. Its gonn be 85$ so its no that bad , or maybe u got some website with cheap part , cheaper then autozone?
is the check engine light still on? The guy should have deleted the code.
Replace your cap, rotor, wires, and spark plugs.
I had a feeling that this may of been your problem because of the issue of you not able to rev past 3k.
You can disconnect your battery for a minute to remove the CEL or go back to AZ and have them clear the code.
yup the light is still on i dont think he deleted the code.....
The full list of what i need to change in order to get the car straight (I got the car last week):
*Spark Plug (4)
*Distribution Cap
*Rotor-Ignition
*Wireset
*Timing Belt
*Air Filter
*PCV Valve
*Fuel Filter
*Brake Pads
*Coolant Fluid
Oil was changed last month as well as oil filter. Im not sure when they changed Transmission fluid or even they ever did. All those parts i just posted above are 200$ in AutoZone. Anyone can give me any advices about the transmission fluid or any more parts , or the best....... Where i can buy those parts cheaper then AutoZone because im kind of broke. THX!
Thank You can u please answer for my last post too :):) thxQuote:
Originally Posted by 4-G-rim
To be honest you will have to shop around for those parts for the cheapest. Advance auto parts usually is a little bit cheaper than autozone...so I would give that a try since AZ are near Advance AP stores anyways.
Online...I can't even tell you where to begin to be honest. The price for spark plugs, rotor and cap isn't going to be much of a difference for the most part. The biggest difference in price will be the spark wires...and that depends if you want to buy OEM replacements or performance wires like magnecore, accel, NGK, etc etc...then its going to be a bit more expensive.
i liek the way u spell transmission. good luck on getting it running
i liek the way u spell transmission. good luck on getting it running
what type of plus you have in there now.
my bad im sorry i like the way u spelled likeQuote:
Originally Posted by lonestar22
Thank you for all advices guys! You really helped me , ill go around looking for cheaper parts but probably ill end up buying most of them in AZ. When ill change those parts ill tell you if everything works fine , for now topic is done
Ok guyz this subject moved forward , so i changed:
Spark Plugs
Wireset
Rotor
Cap
Plug in 3rd cylinder was messed up , all those parts refreshed car , i see car goes faster but the choking kind of is still a issue. Before like i said i floored gas and i felt right away how car shakes and stops on 3000 RPM , after changing those parts i floor the gas now car goes up to 4000-5000 RPM and it stops and after couple seconds it start to shake/choke and it doesnt accelerate..... what you think?? My other shot for fuel filter.........idk whats wrong
hmm is it flooding or not getting enough fuel.. id check the pump and filter.. does the car idle and run smooth because if not an injector might be shot
car goes smooth its only if i floor it...... idk ill check fuel filter this week and ill post if it helped , if not thats something more seriouse and ill get i little worried :(
It might have somthing to do with your over drive.... idk it seems like maybe when you floor it, its almost like the signols being sent for you a/f ratio are getting mixed up and they are not correct.... Anyone else have any ideas???
when u floor it does the car down shift like its supposed 2? or is this even from a stop??? my old tranny did that it started not down shifting then it blew upQuote:
Originally Posted by kondypl
Im really tired of that car.......... i changed all those shit :
*Spark Plug (4)
*Distribution Cap
*Rotor-Ignitio
*Wireset
*PCV Valve
*Oil Change
*Oil Filter
*Timing Belt
*Fuel Filter
*Transmission Filter
*Transmission Fluid
It didnt help...... car still chokes , now its even worster , it chokes on 3000 rpm even on neutral...... Check engine is still on........ idk wtf should i do?? do u think its tranny dying? if yes to hell with it im not gonna fix it i need to sell that shit ....
Quote:
Originally Posted by kondypl
Its not your tranny if it is choking up in neutral. I would suggest either fuel filter, or possibly the internal coil in the distributor is getting weak and can't keep up at the higher rpms.
look up on list of parts i did , i changed fuel filter....... i just came back from AZ i did the scan and its the same code as before. Its should be something up with ignition system.But I changed cap , rotor , wires , plugs so its only Fuel injector left on the list .... its says that its something missfire ..... i changed Fuel Filter...... so its either Fuel Injector or Tranny....... how do i check which one ?
wuts the exact code number?
P0300
Its P0300 its all about ingnition system and i changed it all and it didnt help...... also it might be Oxygen sensor.... its gotta be Oxygen Sensor or Fuel Injector... but idk how to change those two things....i dont think its tranny cuz when i go normaly its shifting smothly and when i press gas normaly to the end it goes up to 7 rpm its only when i floor the gas its always stops on 3 rpm and it chokes kind of ...... doesnt matter if its driving or neutral
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plugs or wires .. u changed
Faulty coil (pack) .. distributor which you did
Faulty oxygen sensor(s) ???
Faulty fuel injector(s) ???
Burned exhaust valve ???
Faulty catalytic converter(s).. u said yours is good
Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages .. u have the plate right
Faulty camshaft position sensor .. ditsributor does that on our cars
Defective computer ???
yup so like i said either O2 Sensor or Fuel Injector ......... how can i check which one is messed up?
ive heard if you unpug them 1 at a time and see which one when its not connected allows the motor to idle better then thats the messed up one.. if you have aim or somethin g hop on there so we can talk faster.. mine is mustangjunkie10
mine was kind of doing that when i had faulty front o2 sensor.
Did you say you have an egr block off plate
If you have logging software, you can do a log and see if the O2 sensors are cylcling. If they stay at or around the same #, it is dead. If you don't have a logger, find a good mechanic that scanner that can monitor the data stream.
mine is kondypl , i added you , ill aim uQuote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10