HELLO ALL..
I have a99galant 2.4l S.O.H.C. and I've been thinking about adding a throttle body spacer.
Any suggestions or advice.Thank you new guy rocklin
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HELLO ALL..
I have a99galant 2.4l S.O.H.C. and I've been thinking about adding a throttle body spacer.
Any suggestions or advice.Thank you new guy rocklin
Throttle body spacers are literally the most worthless power mod in history.
^^^ x2
The gains from a TB spacer will be as non-existent as the McMuffin from Mickey D's I had this morning for breakfast...
I have one but i'm using it because i swapped to a diamante TB.
Read the other thread about 2.4 with V6 TB.
Wasn't there clearance issues with some of them hitting the brake booster?
If you live in a warmer climate I'll tell you a free way instead of cooler air than buying one of those hunks of junk.
Disconnect the coolant lines from the bottom of your throttle body.
use a small hose connector to connect both pieces together to bypass it so you're not dropping coolant everywhere.
What the coolant lines do is warm up the throttle body and is a way for your car to let itself know it's under optimum running temp to let off the fuel consumption. it's mostly needed for overly cold weather to help it warm up faster, you can Google and read all about it.
No hot coolant running through your tb = cooler air for practically free.
Its a good concept. But the coolant passes through by the IAC to warm idle air during engine temp warm up and stabilize idle performance. Honestly, if your at wide open throttle air rushing past wouldn't have a moment to even catch the heat from the throttle body. Even if it passes entirely around the circumference of the throttle body.
Concept: run your hand slowly across a candle flame. Feel the heat,right? Then swiftly swipe your hand across the flame, didn't feel it, or as much. Same thing.
I've learned the concept through my experience through the mirage forums and have it done on my.. well mirage.
Googling what the coolant lines do and living in Florida I figured I'd be safe trying it out and yes it takes maybe a fraction longer to bring down the higher idle but eventually ran smooth.
I've had it for a year so it's been a long time since I read it myself but something about a piece expanding with the heat? Either way the throttle body was cooler to an open hand touch after the bi pass than Before it I couldnt touch it for long. (Sensitive to heat). Either way the tiny tiny cooled effect is about the same if not better than a 60$ spacer. Just giving food for thought.
And just my 2 cents not trying to step on anyone... when ever are you WOT while DD? Only from stop to go honestly when not much more air is passing over it at a constant 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure. Say if you at WOT on the highway that would be a different story.
(No reply)
Congrats. And did I not state I've had this coolant bypass for a year, so wouldn't I not be able to know my info without question? And sorry but a throttle body spacer isn't something someone with a race car runs to go pick up. Read his first post when he's asking for "suggestions or advice" and I've given him both on the matter of cooling the incoming air and my thoughts of the tb spacer. Slow your roll bat man this isn't a pissing match.
Coolant doesn't go through the throttle body to the ends of HEATING the intake charge. There is nothing GOOD about heating the intake charge, manufacturer's aren't completely retarded. Why would anybody want the charge heated AFTER the temp has been measured in the MAF..? Among the other disadvantages. C'mon guys... The throttle body has a puny amount of surface area. If you really think it heats the charge you're an idiot, there is easily 4 times the surface area on the OUTSIDE of the throttle body. If thermodynamics had it that it could heat soak and intake charge it would dissipate heat into the engine bay so much faster there'd be no point in running coolant lines to it at all. Also notice the coolant only goes through the IAC section of the tb...
That being said real reason coolant goes through the throttle body because there is a heat coil controlled valve in the IAC passageway that shuts when the engine reaches operating temp. The purpose is to help the engine shut down idle once it gets warm without the IAC having to do all the leg work.
The heat coil however does literally nothing. I've deleted it and bypassed the coolant lines on over 30 cars of every level of performance or lack there of you could ever imagine. It is pointless and has zero impact on anything at all other than the O ring for the valve leaking on boosted cars. I delete them on every single car I work on EVER because those coolant lines are a pain in the fucking ass when it comes to removing the plenum and they like to leak under the worst possible circumstances. They're useless, get rid of them and be happy that you can remove your manifold and/or throttle body without getting your hands full of coolant.
END OF STORY.
Lol! That's a different way of looking at it. I have noticed in comparison these coolant lines are the most annoying to get to, even having to unbolt the throttle body first just to manipulate the clamps. Different walks of life and different opinions backed up by different resources credible or not.. just get rid of them. You have 2 options. Run a longer hose to connect both coolant plugs together to loop it, or using a straight hose connector and put both small hoses together. That'll even solve the small problem of needing to extend them for either or upgraded throttle body (like the v6 60mm) or even adding on the spacer if you wish. Not factoring in the vacuum lines on top of the tb or if you have cruise.
2 things...
1) my Galant, once started, runs on fast idle for maybe a maximum of 45 seconds before gradually dropping down to regular idle. Not enough time to build any engine heat...
2) heat does enter the engine into the plenum as you drive at cruise speed even without the TB cooler lines hooked up. And it is not metered by the MAF. EGR??
Just sayin...
(Silvertune: There is nothing GOOD about heating the intake charge, manufacturer's aren't completely retarded). I guess they made a mistake putting on an EGR system because that directly ports heated exhaust into the intake manifold. Damn retards..... Lol
ok got it thanks every one.... no to the TB spacer....what about an after market TB, and who makes one with the most (please go easy on me im still a newbe) bang for the buck.......
ewe i have horror stores that started with McMuffin... thanks RAIDER...
Maybe you haven't read ALL THE RECENT POSTS about the throttle body discussion. Your stock TB is going to be the "most bang for the buck".Quote:
Originally Posted by hershman
If you want more air, get the 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander non-mivec Intake Manifold, port the opening and slap on the EVO 70mm TB :http://fullblownmotorsports.com/full...-throttle-body
Has anyone done a baseline dyno on a stock 2.4, then dyno'ed after the Outlander intake and 70mm upgrade to determine gains? Still haven't found any specific numbers gains.
^you're not going to find any, the stock EVO TB is 65mm.
No it isn't...
oh, thats what the tools on evom were saying, http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-gen...m-cast-tb.html
You have never owned one, and you misread. It's 60mm stock.
Alright. In order to fix my intake manifold I had to put in a "spacer" (it's actually a piece of metal from an exhaust tip) between the body of the intake mani and the flange for the throttle body. Measured it out to 3/4ths of an inch including the flange itself my throttle body is sitting an inch away from its previous location. As for "power" I wouldn't say there is any, but as for throttle response:it's about as good as if you were to tighten the dive wire one notch to tight. Eventually it all broke in together so the throttle body closes all the way as it should but I'm way happier with the response than it had before.
Hey Bllrmbltz. Thanks for the tip on removing the water lines from my throttle body. Im going to do that. I'll let you know how it turns out, just need to replace the IACV first. Wish me luck