INFO: STEERING WHEEL VIBRATIONS

TT-40-31-001 - September, 1998
Wheel Balance Concerns/Steering Wheel Vibration - 1999 Galant. The factory is investigating wheel balancing difficulties and possible related steering wheel vibration.
TT-40-35-001 - September, 1998
Shaking When Braking - 1999 Galant. Out-of-round rear brake drums may be the culprit in cases of steering wheel shaking when braking from about 50 - 30 mph.

TT-41-31-001 - October, 1998
Wheel Balance Concerns/Steering Wheel Vibration - 1999 Galant. The factory is investigating wheel balancing difficulties and possible related steering wheel vibration.
TT-43-31-002 - December, 1998
Wheel Balance Concerns/Steering Wheel Vibration - 1999 Galant. The factory is investigating wheel balancing difficulties and possible related steering wheel vibration.
TT-43-35-001 - December, 1998
Shaking When Braking - 1999 Galant. Out-of-round rear brake drums may be the culprit in cases of steering wheel shaking when braking from about 50 - 30 mph.

TT-44-31-001 - January, 1999
Wheel Balance Concerns/Steering Wheel Vibration Update - 1999 Galant. Thank you to all technicians who sent in TCS Quality Reports on wheel balancing difficulties and steering wheel vibration. As a result, improved lower control arm bushings are installed in vehicle production since 11/9/98. And the new bushings (p/n MR455736) are available to eliminate steering wheel shimmy when braking or driving over 65 mph. Refer to TSB-99-33A-001, issued this month.

<span style='color:red'>TSB-99-33A-001REV - July, 1999</span>
PURPOSE
This bulletin describes appropriate diagnosis and repair for steering wheel shimmy and brake judder.

Customers may report steering wheel shimmy when traveling at approximately 65-75 mph. Shimmy is identified as when the steering wheel oscillates quickly from side-to-side (not up and down).

Brake judder is a similar condition which could be mistaken for shimmy. Brake judder is identified as when the steering wheel shakes rapidly up and down when braking (typically from 70 mph or from 35 mph).

New, improved lower arm bushings (listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin) are available to eliminate the steering wheel oscillation when braking or driving over 65 mph.

•If the shimmy continues after the bushings are replaced, tires or wheels may be the cause. Wheel balancing and/or tire rotation may be necessary.

•If the brake judder continues after the bushings are replaced, rear brake drum replacement and/or front brake rotor re-surfacing may be necessary.

AFFECTED VEHICLES
1999 Galant models equipped with 2.4L engine produced before 11/9/98 (VIN XE067461)

PROCEDURE
1.Note customer's reported conditions of when the shimmy or judder occurs.

2.Replace the lower arm bushings on both sides of the vehicle, using the new, improved bushing listed in the PARTS INFORMATION section of this bulletin. Refer to Group 33 of the 1999 Galant service manual.

3.Test drive the vehicle to verify whether the condition has been eliminated.

a.If the customer's complaint was steering wheel shimmy, and the condition continues, go to Step 4.

b.If the customer's complaint was brake judder, and the condition continues, go to Step 5.

4.Steering Wheel Shimmy:

a.Re-balance the wheels, then test drive the vehicle to verify whether the shimmy is eliminated.

b.If the shimmy continues, rotate the tires. Install the rear tires on the front, and install the front tires on the rear.

c.Test drive the vehicle to verify that the shimmy is eliminated.

5.Brake Judder:

a.Determine whether the judder is from the front or the rear of the vehicle. While driving at about 35 mph, pull up on the parking brake lever gently.

(1)If a vibration is felt, the rear brake drums are out-of-round. Replace the rear brake drums.

(2)If no vibration is felt, the front brake rotors require re-surfacing. Using an on-car brake lathe, re-surface the brake rotors as described in Group 35 of the service manual. If an on-car brake lathe is unavailable, replace the brake rotors.

b.Test drive the vehicle to verify that the brake judder is eliminated.

PARTS INFORMATION
Description Part Number
Lower Arm Bushing MR455736
Front Disk Rotor MR389724
Rear Brake Drum MB895659


-MIKE.

i am having a problem with my stering wheel vibrating when i exceed 70mph....

I am assuming...my rotors might be warped, so i have ordered some cross drilled rotors....and ceramic brakes....i hope the problem goes away....

Here are some interesting sites on "Brake Shudder/Judder"...

http://www.checkthatcar.com/new_check/data...fluid_level.asp
http://www.a1-truck-parts.net/articles/bra...rake-system.htm
http://au.geocities.com/ozbrick850/brakesh...er-mystory.html
http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/wheels_tire...es_shudder.html
http://www.davep1.freeserve.co.uk/rover/te...ch/warpdisc.htm

-MIKE.

I had my Galant at the dealer again for the shaking problem. At first they claimed that they drove it and another 2001 and found no problems with mine. I then took their technician for a drive. As soon as we hit 65 he noticed it from the passenger seat. They took the car to a local shop that did a 'Radial Force Balancing'. That is a special type of computerized balancing machine. I got the car back yesterday and it seems MUCH better. Hopefully that is the cure for me.

The recall does not specifically apply to the V6, however the part numbers for the lower control arm bushings on the V6 are:

MR316906 - Bushing, Front Suspension Lower Arm, Right
MR316905 - Bushing, Front Suspension Lower Arm, Left

-Brian

same on my 2g as soon as i hit 65-70 its shakes had new tires replaced balanced and everything but it still shakes from time to time :doubleup:

When I hit around 60 or 70 the car vibrates. I could notice on the passenger seat moving. The dash vibrates too. I call the dealer and game them my VIN # to see if there where any recalls and nothing. Sometimes when I take off it also vibrates until it shift into third gear.
What should I do, I got tires and balance like two months ago. And after I did, the problem did not got fixed.
What can I do to fix this????

so what do i do specifically to stop the vibration when accelerating or when braking form 35+ miles an hour as it is somewhat annoying? i got an 8g..really need help with this issue

Has anyone had the 'over 70mph steering jitter/vibration' and then replaced these lower arm bushings? Did they resolve this issue?

I had the high speed vibration issues. I had Midas replace the lower arm bushings (actually the whole lower control arm) and regrind the rotors. Since then no problems with vibration. I however am getting some clunking when slowing and turning at low speeds. Maybe ball joint issues.

Interesting discussion! I've a 2002 Galant ES-V6 that vibrates when accelerating! I know for a fact that it's due to the rotors being warped. Mitsubishi is known for having inferior brakes! My mechanic said that re-surfacing the rotors on this vehicle wasn't recommended. I'm awaiting new Powerslot rotors and Axxis metal master brake pads. Since I'm having this done, I'm going to have Goodridge stainles steel brake lines installed as well. By the way, I do notice when making a turn slowly, there's a rubbing noise comming from the front brakes. Maybe due to the uneven ware of the rotors as the pads touch.

i just put on my 18" wheels today. and i never had the steering wheel shakeing problem untill today, its really bad now. and really annoying. does anyone know a good place to get the lower bushing thingers? i really cant stand it so i need to get it done soon! thanks.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bigbluetotoro)</div><div class='quotemain'>i just put on my 18" wheels today. and i never had the steering wheel shakeing problem untill today, its really bad now. and really annoying. does anyone know a good place to get the lower bushing thingers? i really cant stand it so i need to get it done soon! thanks.</div>

you sure you have the right lug nuts on there? did you get some hubcentric rings to go with your wheels? did they do a high speed balance on your wheels?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bigbluetotoro)</div><div class='quotemain'>i just put on my 18" wheels today. and i never had the steering wheel shakeing problem untill today, its really bad now. and really annoying. does anyone know a good place to get the lower bushing thingers? i really cant stand it so i need to get it done soon! thanks.</div>

you sure you have the right lug nuts on there? did you get some hubcentric rings to go with your wheels? did they do a high speed balance on your wheels?</div>
i took them to pep boys and they mounted an ballanced them. the other wheels i had on had tuner lugs so i used them. the guy did say that i would have to check the lugs every day for a week to make sure they are setting right in the alloy. so i don't know if that could be the problem. also i didn't get hubcentric rings, i really have no clue how they work. should i go back to pep boys and tell them that its shakeing around 65-70 mph? thanks for the help, i really want to get this done soon.

first of all, you said pep boys. that only means trouble.

take the wheel off. see if the weights the put on are still there.

while the wheel is off, check the seat on the wheel to see if it matches the seat on the lug nut. if it does you're fine there.

put the wheel on the car. look into the lug holes. are the studs centered in the lug holes or are the wheels hanging by the studs and lug holes. if they are hanging then you need to purchase hubcentric rings. if they are all centered then you're good to go there.

now tighten all the lugs, in the star pattern, little by little. i find that many techs just tighten the wheels all the way in a circle pattern just cuz it saves time, plus the air gun makes it easy that way. not the way to go. tighten it by hand using that star pattern, i usually go around twice til i think its tight, then i break out the torque wrench and go around twice again torquing the lug nuts to spec.

ok, i went back to pepboys and told them i was getting vibrations from 60-70mph. and they for free looked at them, the guy said the ballanceing was a little off and he fixed it....well he did...but now they shake at 70-80. not as annoying becuase i rarely cruse past 80. but still bothersome. so did they just re-ballance them wrong again?

they might have balanced them right. thing is, their balancing machine probably only went up to like 60-70 mph so they really don't know how they would be at higher speeds.

when i first got my 8g, it was vibrating like crazy.. after a year i finally got time to look at it and wat happened was that ethe engine mount where it looks like a circle and the engine is held by that .. well that was broken completely.. and so i replaced that and got new rotors.. and still vibrating like crazy.. but i guess ill try to look that this then.. cus it doesnt really affect me that much.. im pretty much used to it by now...

I have the same problems as you guys. I am about to change my rotors to cross drilled slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads. To those of you that did this modification, Did you notice any improvement????

Pepboys definately = problem

I haven't had my car long, I assumed it just needed an alignment. The steering wheel vibrated, and the car veered to the right slightly.

I took it to pepboys for an alignment, 5 1/2 hours later I get my fucking car back. I drive down the road, still vibrating, only no it veers horribly to the right. 50 times worse than when I brought it in.

I turned around and demanded my money back, I didn't want them to touch my car again. They gave me my money back in full.

After seeing post, it looks like I need to do some reading, then take my car to a real alignment shop.

Has anyone here replaced the bushing like it recommends? Did this fix your problem?

I don't mind some wobly brakes, and I'll get around to fixing them. But the vibration in my wheel at 55+ is so severe that I'm afraid something will break, and now I'm hesitant to even take it on the freeway period.

This is a follow up to my previous post regarding "shudder/vibration upon acceleration". I've sice replaced the stock rotors, which were warped, with Powerslot rotors and Axxis brake pads. I still noticed vibration! Soon after, I installed 17" wheels from 2006 Eclipse with new tires(balenced). I'm still noticing shudder when accelerating from stop! I don't get it! I've heard similiar problems experianced by other owners. Some causes thought to be the problem (car pulling to one side, vibrations) were; faulty caliper supports, defective calipers, warped OEM rotors, off center steering wheel, excessive play in front stabilizer link joint(MR333763) due to inferior quality of plastic socket in joint, replacing transaxle shafts,
repacking wheel berings, torque converter (replacing trans fluid), loose lug nuts. It seems brake problems and suspension problems are verrry common with the 8th gen V6, as is Mitsubishi's failure to find the cause!

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GSpeed)</div><div class='quotemain'>This is a follow up to my previous post regarding "shudder/vibration upon acceleration". I've sice replaced the stock rotors, which were warped, with Powerslot rotors and Axxis brake pads. I still noticed vibration! Soon after, I installed 17" wheels from 2006 Eclipse with new tires(balenced). I'm still noticing shudder when accelerating from stop! I don't get it! I've heard similiar problems experianced by other owners. Some causes thought to be the problem (car pulling to one side, vibrations) were; faulty caliper supports, defective calipers, warped OEM rotors, off center steering wheel, excessive play in front stabilizer link joint(MR333763) due to inferior quality of plastic socket in joint, replacing transaxle shafts,
repacking wheel berings, torque converter (replacing trans fluid), loose lug nuts. It seems brake problems and suspension problems are verrry common with the 8th gen V6, as is Mitsubishi's failure to find the cause!</div>

Have your control arms and control arm bushings inspected.

RedGalant2k1, that's my next move! Didn't think I would need to since the vehicle (02 ES-V6) has 24,800 miles! I forgot to mention that I had Energy Suspension front (5.3127 ) and rear (5.3128) control arm bushings installed about a year ago.(due to no problems, just upgrade).

Just to chip in as I have the same problem (vibration while hard accelerating) and today I found out why: cracked front and rear motormounts. You might want to check those too if you didn't already, just an idea, IDK if that could be it already at 24K

Anyways, I was getting the vibrations too. Steering wheel goes side to side. So I got new tires and that them high speed balanced. the vibrations are gone. but It just feels like at certain speed the steering wheel is bouncing up and down. Any advice? besides replacing the lower control arm bushing?

i dont understand why people dont actually read the thread they are posting on.
REPLACE YOUR CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!!!!!!

mitsubishiparts.com

p.s. does anyone know the part number for an 01 gtz?

there's two different probs here.. mine vibrates when i accelerate SOMETIMES..

maybe the guy who said he's replacing his breaks, let mek now if it helps..

kinda an old thread..

so does anyone know the part # for a 2000 v6 CONTROL ARM BUSHING?
I've got some bad symptoms,....bad vibration under acceleration - at any speed - from stop to whatever....soon as I let off the gas, it's gone...little squeaks while accelerating from stop - although they're probably still there at higher speeds, just not as noticeable....when I put it in gear, with the brakes on, there's a little "click" - followed by the "squeaking" of the passenger side wheel, while accelerating.

I know it's been a while however, wanted to continue documenting upgrades/part replacements. A couple of months ago, the dealership told me I had a broken motor mount. I thought, so that's it! I sent in (4) core mounts to Deyeme racing to have them filled with polyurethane. I figured this would be a good time to upgrade all (4) mounts. I've since had them installed and noticed an improvement regarding steering vibrations. I will note however, due to the polyurethane be stiffer over the OEM mounts, when starting the car, it vibrates much more than before. This only occurs upon start up. While driving, there is no additional vibrations due to the stiffer mounts. I've read some posts where members(Club 3g) had much more vibrations due to the Deyeme mounts. Most vehicles with standard transmission expereinced this.

yeah, i've been having this problem for about 7 months! i thought it was a warp too, i still need to get it looked at

I've been having similar problems with the vibration in the steering wheel for over a year. (only at high speeds, and it seems to vary at certain speeds) Bought brand new Z rated tires and while having an alignment done, found out one of my front end tie rods was loose. Had them replace it along with a few other high mileage repairs (some belts) and it fixed 92&#37; of the vibration. I can now cruise at 80 without it shaking me apart. 1 week later I was replacing my brake pads and noticed a sway bar link was MISSING! I've got it on order from Mitz and hope that solves the problem. If not I will try the lower control arms & bushings. I've been riding on drilled and slotted rotors for about 3 years and don't notice any shimmy when braking, but an unbalanced rotor can throw an alignment out just as easily as an unbalanced wheel. I may have that checked next. Replacing the rotors w/ some aftermarkets are a good idea for anyone that doesn't want to constantly have to get their rotors turned. 3 years and still have not had to have them turned. I take my car to a shop that uses 'sticky weights' and a high speed balancing system. Places like Midas/Wal-Mart, not sure about PepBoys, only do a static balance and use the weights that attach to the edge of your rim. That is NOT a good way to balance and usually onyl lasts a few months at best. If you've got custom rims, save your money and take it to a real alignment shop for proper balancing. NOTE for White26, I would go with carbon metallic pads as appose to the ceramics. You'll get much better stopping power with the slotted rotors vs. ceramics plus I just repalced mine after 3 years of use and they still had some padding on them. Probably could have gone another year. But if brake dust is an issue, go with the ceramics.

i had the same problem with my steering wheel on a 1999 LS V6, and when i changed my rotors, did a wheel alightment and tire balancing, the vibration was gone for good!!

Update on my vibrations: gone!

Tire balancing on my G was correct but after I swapped my OEM shocks & struts to coilovers and replaced my front right tie rod the shimmy was gone gone. I can do 90 mph with no shimmy and before just getting over 60 mpg gave me periodic but frequent vibrations. Hope this helps somebody.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by krow

Update on my vibrations: gone!

Tire balancing on my G was correct but after I swapped my OEM shocks & struts to coilovers and replaced my front right tie rod the shimmy was gone gone. I can do 90 mph with no shimmy and before just getting over 60 mpg gave me periodic but frequent vibrations. Hope this helps somebody.

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ahh thanks for the info... i thought it was my rims doing all the shaking, so i put new tires and rims on it, same thing. i was very disappointed. good stuff tho, i'll have to order some new parts.

I have a 2001 galant and my intake manifold broke off just after the throddle body for the second time in just over a year. My car has over 100,000miles and the dealer said within the past year, there have being a increase in this problem with these manifold so thay had to change manufactures.

Thank you for making this a sticky. I can finally prove to them that I'm not crazy about my steering wheel problem. Although it said 2.4L and I have the 3.0L, I still have this problem.