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when my car is idling without the headlights,wipers,heat on it idles steady.when the heat and lights are on the rpms drop about 200 rpm.the alternator was changed when i bought the car.i checked the volts with the car running and not running,and the battery and alternator are in check volt wise.does anyone have any suggestions of what it could be?any help would be appreciated.thanks.
thats normal. all my 7gs did it with new alternators too.
is it really.when i bought it the guy said the alternator was replaced but i dont know how long ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
its only when its initially turned on, once you dirive for a bit it goes back to normal unless it sits for a long time. if it was anything else, youd know as the battery would be on its way out.
Its normal. What you would have to do is adjust the idle screw by the tb. Increase the idle when you feel that the idle is not so low with all the electronics on.
no, the idle is meant to fluctuate and doesnt need to idle at 1400 with everything off for it to be right. its normal and the idle should be around 800 with the engine warm and everything off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
yeah thats what i just did today.i have set at 1,000 then when when everything is on it idles around 800Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
you can leave it at that but i dont like a really high idle for no reason. its not like you are trying to cover up a big set of cams, we are talking about a small rpm drop when u turn everything on at once and only when sitting. turn it on when driving and ull never know hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by galantlvr34
it was at 800 idling and with everything on it would be around 600.do think that is good?Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
it should be only at that moment when you turn everything on. then it should go back up soon after especially when driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by galantlvr34
yeah it does go back up after driving.i will probably turn it back down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
im just saying its normal and dont raise the idle too much, it drops like that because it takes from the battery to start everything especially after just starting the car. the drop is the alternator recharging the battery and after idling for a bit or driving the battery is charged and its back to normal
Read again I never said to put it at 1400 I said to adjust it at the right idle. Remember the settings are set for factory equipments. If you start putting hid and amps with speakers and subs u need to adjust some settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
i was making a point to only raise the idle slightly. i have HIDs upgraded sound and stuff like that and my idle is still 800 with everything off and no issues. this is my second 7g and ive been working on these cars for 5 years. there is no need to adjust the idle because you upgraded your head unit or anything, you just need to understand the power it takes when first turned on. thats what capacitors are for and dual battery setups. but that isnt the case here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
yeah i see what you are saying.so 800 is a good idle then.it might have something to do with the belts they are squeaking when it is cold but then it goes away after a little while.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
its time to check the tension on the belts. my belts have less than 5k on them and they squeek when its first started for like 10 seconds then if the heat is on all the way. i need to retension the belt as the new guy at the dealer did it, not my normal tech or myself. im doing my timing belt in a couple weeks so ill do it thenQuote:
Originally Posted by galantlvr34
yeah i will probably have to replace them.last time i looked at them,they looked alright i think they are mitsubishi belts to so i dont know if the guy bought them from the dealer when he did the alternator, or if they are original.
yea. the alternator and power steering belts arent that expensive or hard to do. i had the dealer do mine while it was in for the ball joint recall.
yeah they are not hard to do.how did you find out your car didnt have the recall done?Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
should be on your carfax. id go down to your local mitsu dealer and give them your vin and have it done if it hasnt been
yeah i will have to do that.the recall is the ball joints corroding isnt it?
yea, the front lower ball joints may have a chance of corroding and seperating while driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by galantlvr34
oh man thats not good.maybe thats the noise i hear in my front end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
noises can be anything. i would get it done though
+1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
My G's RPMs also drop a lot under heavy electrical load when I first crank it up in the very cold mornings, but it goes away after the engine warms up. My alternator is very, very old and beat up though. It's cracked in like 10 different places from the previous owner's 45mph accident T-boning a car. :012: So what I'm trying to say I guess is that any properly-functioning alternator, old or new, should do this.
Is it really idling at 200rpms...seriously? I wouldn't think that the engine would run at all if it were turning over that slow. My normal idle is 750. With full electrical load, my V-belt shrieks and my engine idle drops to ~500. Just trying to give a ballpark figure.
no i was saying it drops 200rpm from the normal idle,it would go from 800 to 600.yeah your problem probably is your alternator.Quote:
Originally Posted by mygalantwasfree
galantwas free, i am willing to bet the tension on your belt is too loose. that what mine does, once the car warms up it doesnt do it any more and it only makes noise when its cold out.
you will get an rpm drop w/ electrical loads on @ idle, esp w/ your foot on the brake. i did a test w/ mine years ago in this condition; the alternator was not able to supply enough current, my dc amp-clamp showed 5 to 10 amps being drawn from the battery...so if you're sitting in traffic with everything on and a marginal battery, you could kill it.........it happend to us! it's a design thing w/ this alternator.......you just have to be aware and keep a good battery and all is ok
the front suspension recall is important..........i did mine right after the right wheel folded under when making a hard turn in a parking lot.......hate to think if we had been on the road...
my gs is 5 speed,and the recall was done on it i called the dealer and they said it was done in 2001.Quote:
Originally Posted by StockGS
(Sorry OP, I'm not trying to jack your thread!) The problem is, I have to adjust this tensioner about once a month or so. If I do not open the hood and put more tension on it, it gets worse and worse. The "lock bolt" that locks the tension bolt in place is as tight as I can get it without stripping threads. I'll make the belt tension very, very tight one week and then a month later it's back to being slack again. So there's not much else I can really do except replace the mangled alternator. I believe the multiple cracks in the alternator housing are allowing it to move with respect to the bracket that mounts it. This is what's causing my belt squeal...or so I think anyway :icon_wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mygalantwasfree
if the alternator is on its way out replace that and replace the tensioner for that belt. those go bad sometimes too. then you should be good to go. and you never replied my PM
The tensioner on the alternator belt appears to be part of the alternator itself. I just sent a PM your way, sorry bout that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10