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140 150 140 120... Bad head gasket? my junkyard guy said it might be. car car still dont start and im thinking this is why... there is a sh*t load of oil on the timing belt when i uncovered it! if i have to change both the head gasket and timing belt im just gonna go dohc.
it very well could be the head gasket.If you decide to not go with a dohc then i would rebuild the head to with new valves and everything because that can make the high and low compression happen to.
yea the motor has 200,000 miles on it. how long do these motors last?
I did my first compression test at 240k, it was 190 across with valves having bunch of deposits on them
Its either really worn out rings or skipped timing. ALso, if you cranked for long time and it was dumping fuel in it the walls might be washed with gasoline which makes less compression. Pour some oil thru the spark plug hole and do another compression test. Also, a compression test should be done when engine is warmed up to operational temperature.
thats the problem, it wont start. lol
It will be very difficult for you to get an accurate reading then. I did a compression test on a '89 Honda Accord a few months ago...with the engine stone cold I only got around 70psi out of each cylinder. Expect quite a bit more compression with the engine warm.
Do you have oily coolant? (Even if you don't have oil+coolant mixing, it doesn't necessarily mean the head gasket is good, but it's definitely a good indicator.)
In the hypothetical case that your compression test was accurate, the engine should be able to run with those numbers, albeit poorly....unless of course your cylinders are flooded with coolant :bowl:
Start with the easiest, check to make sure your timing is right first. If timing is right then you have either a blown head gasket, bent / leaking valves, or worn out rings.
how do i check the timing without taking out the engine? lol
you have to take off the upper timing cover and put a half inch drive ratchet on the crank bolt and turn the bolt clock wise and watch the belt,it is easier to turn the crank with the spark plugs out.If you want to check the timing marks you need to take off the lower timing cover too.
My post from a previous thread:
To check timing, remove all drive belts and the upper and lower timing cover. Take all the spark plugs out. Rotate the engine clockwise with a socket and ratchet until the crank sprocket timing mark is aligned with the arrow etched into the engine bock.
Now, verify that the mark on the oil pump sprocket is aligned with the arrow etched into the engine block.
Remove the distributor cap and verify that the rotor button is pointing at the #1 cylinder contact.
After you've done that, verify that the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the timing mark etched into the side of the valve cover. If all 3 things (crank pulley, distributor rotor, camshaft sprocket) are pointing at TDC, your timing is correct.
Most likely, if your timing jumped, the timing belt will be in very bad shape, and you will be missing a few teeth on the belt. If the belt looks in good shape, check to make sure that there is no slack in the belt, as this can also cause your engine to jump timing.
the timing belt and gears are soaked in oil, how does oil get in there?
Could be one of 3 things: leaking camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, or oil pump seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhenne08
Check and see if you have more dirt and oil around one particular seal. If you do, that seal is most likely the culprit.
Btw, just FYI, that timing belt is completely trashed now. Oil/antifreeze will ruin the timing belt. Depending on how confident you are in your mechanic abilities, either you or someone you trust should replace that belt with a new one.
EDIT: Your oil leak could also be coming from a bad head gasket, but the 3 possibilities I listed above are much more common causes.
im having this issue. i believe my timing belt jumped a tooth and it causing all of my issues. i am lucky it was only 1 tooth as it still starts but im not driving it and i can tell you that i just rotated my crank and the compression wasnt there like it was and i could feel it after the first hiccup. id do the timing belt and tensioner after checking. i know my belt was due but i didnt expect this
You're lucky that belt didn't completely break and bend valves. Good ol' forgiving mitsubishi engines! :003:Quote:
Originally Posted by Galanttuner10
thank god it seems to be forgiving besides misfiring so badly on the way home today. im going to find out exactly how bad it jumped later on this week but i think his caar did the same. i did a tune up thinking it was that all too but to no avail.Quote:
Originally Posted by mygalantwasfree
same here i did a tune up and what not.
Wait so you've said that your timing belt is covered in oil. I'm assuming that you've therefore removed one of the timing covers. How does that timing belt look? Any dry-rot / cracks? Missing teeth?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhenne08
i see cracks but nothing too horrible. but oil soaked so i gotta change it after i check whats wrong with this car i cant figure it out, i think its the timing but i cant get the tire off lol rust is fun.
you have to kick the tire in the bottom corner and it will come right off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhenne08
dude i beat the hell out of that tire and i got nowhere
gotta take them lug nuts off first....
sorry, couldn't resist. If the rim is rusted to the wheel hub try squirting a little PB blaster where each lug passes through the rim. Let it sit a while and repeat the process a couple of time. A little goes a long way and you don't really want to get it on your brake rotor. If your brake rotor gets soaked in it you can always clean it after wards with brake cleaner. Now with the car up on jack stands, climb under the car and try kicking the lower portion of the tire away from the car. Rotate the tire and repeat at different spots. This is a new one for me; I've never heard of a rim rusting onto an axle but with cars, anything can happen
lol its happened to me more then once with these galants.