Just read the cracking the oil myth and wondering if I should continue to put Mobil 1 into the car or go back to regular oil.
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Just read the cracking the oil myth and wondering if I should continue to put Mobil 1 into the car or go back to regular oil.
I used Mobil One, and did so for over 60,000 miles. Never had a problem and the car ran and got better gas mileage using Mobil One. Though I would recommend using the OEM Oil Filters.
I heard your not suppose to go from synthetic back to regular, is that true?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gladiator)</div><div class='quotemain'>Just read the cracking the oil myth and wondering if I should continue to put Mobil 1 into the car or go back to regular oil.</div>
I only use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic Oil because it temporarily gets rid of the lifter ticks; but ticks come back usually after 3k miles and thus, I do an oil change once again.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(PurpleHaze)</div><div class='quotemain'>I heard your not suppose to go from synthetic back to regular, is that true?</div>
Yep, once you've used synthetic you can't go back to regular. If you want to go back then use a synthetic blend.
i've been using amsoil synthetic and i love it. my car seems to run better andmy fuel economy is a lil bit better compared to when i use other brands.
i've switched back and forth between dino oil and synthetic. no problems from my part. no oil leaks, no burning oil, no exploding engine, none of that.
i used to use castrol synthetic but now i use mobile 1. when should i switch to high mileage im at 73xxx right now. anyone here use royal purple?
yes i do
You can switch between Dino and Synthetic w/o any problems.
your freaking way too bad on oil.. i run castrol syn blend 5w30. works fine. you dont need any type of "high mileage" oil.. same as the regular stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestar22
accutrally, High Milage Oils are thicker than the normal to "smooth" the vibrations down.
then just get 10w30 instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by solofantasy
I've used Synthetic (Castrol Syntec) since about 100K. I'm at 275K now, with no problems. I've tried Mobil 1's sythetic once, but didn't like how fast it broke down. By the way, I also went up from 5W-30 to 10W-30 or 10W-40 when I can find it. I'm thinking of switching to a 20W soon, due to the extreme mileage on the engine. Actually, I was kinda waiting on the engine to go so I could replace it with an engine with less mile. But judging from my cousins 7G engine, which had about 330K on it, i might be awhile before that happens.
Quote:
Originally Posted by solofantasy
I thought high mileage oils are half regular half synethic?
I think higher mileage oils just have different additives to break up carbon and whatnot.
I'm pretty sure your filter is whats most important. Non of the FRAM bullshit.
I ve always used a high mileage oil and stabilizer like Lucas.
275k? wow. my last g had 187k and no leaks at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGMONEYDAY
you can get OEM filters from the dealer? i have a FRAM, i should switch it out? and plaecs online to buy ORM filters?
i ran mobil 1 ysnthetic in my old gs motor and my current 4g63t .
10w30 as reccomended.
on the gs 2.4 dohc i ran it hard every single day redlined gears literally all day long. almost always taking 2nd to redline.
i drove hard. all the time. like it was noothing.
i raced in it, i did highway downshifts to 3rd gear and took ti to 6300 redline. i drove it hard.
for about 40k miles. the previous owner used mobil one from the start.
at 183k. i swapped out motors.
peanotation bought my old motor to rebuild.
and all the bearings were mint. no wear to the crank at the mains, or where the rods connect.
piston rings were still shiny and sharp. compression was within 10 psi factory.
i never burned oil except for blowby from hard driving.
only cautions i ever took were allowing the motor to get fully lubricated before i put her in gear every time it was started(about 50 seconds on a cold start, about 15 seconds on a warm start)
then i would keep my rev below 3k for the first few miles until the oilo was up to temp and the pressure would stabilize.(oil pressures are much much higher with cold motor oil)
made a believer out of me.
just ask matts machinist.
Wait a min, I thought FRAM filters are near oem quality?
i feel like a filter is a filter. Would you pay $20 for a K&N oil filter?
Actually, I've been using the regular Fram filters since day one, and just switched over to using their "ToughGuard" filters in the last year. But since I change my oil once a month, I figured they were good enough. But a co-worker actually showed me an independent report that tested oil filters from different companies and Fram was rated one of the "worst" ones on the market, and their "ToughGuard" filters only a little better than average. I believe they list "STP" as one of the better ones, if I remember correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by rhema83
yeah the frams have a leaky antidrainback valve, and bypass the filter altogether if they get too full of debris.
it would be much worse i suppose for the oil flow to stop all together cause of a clogged filter, but it just hurts my feeling to think of an oil filter quitting while on the job.
nothing is better than oem.
mobil one filters got one of the best ratings in that independant study. they are pricey indeed. but thats what i've been using for a while now. I have noticed the oil lasting more miles before showing contamination of the need to change.
on my old motor that i previously mentioned i used either oem filters, or purolator PURE 1 filters.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AVERAGE)</div><div class='quotemain'>i feel like a filter is a filter. Would you pay $20 for a K&N oil filter?</div>
If you are paying $20 for a K&N oil filter, then you are paying way too much.
They go for around $10 at my local Autozone, and the OEM goes for $7 at my local dealer.
I'm pretty sure Autozone will only be selling Duralast Oil filters once they run out of the other brands.
I'm pretty sure they own it, but I am not sure.
Either way OEM is your best bet with a decent brand oil. They do make some oils that have additives to get rid of the valve tick, but I can't remember what it is called. Anyone know?
CASTROL GTX works pretty well for me.
Well you guys opened my eyes a little bit more. Even though I have a bunch of miles on my engine, I think I'll switch over to an OEM, Mobil 1, or Purolator filter to squeeze out a few more thousands miles. When asked how long did I expect for the engine to hold up, I always say if it gets me to 300K I'll be more than happy. Hell, even now I feel I've gotten my money out of her at least twice over. And unless wrecked really bad, I'll always keep her and fix what goes wrong.
Yeah I just switch to Castrol High Milaege and i like it for some crazy reason. I figure i should use that cause i have about 165,000 miles
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BIGMONEYDAY)</div><div class='quotemain'> But since I change my oil once a month</div>
Why?
Do you drive an insane amount, or just like spending ridiculous amounts of money on oil/filters?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tube)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BIGMONEYDAY)</div><div class='quotemain'> But since I change my oil once a month</div>
Why?
Do you drive an insane amount, or just like spending ridiculous amounts of money on oil/filters?</div>
Well he does have over 200,000 miles on his car
I just switched over to syn about a month ago
I ONLY use Mobil 1 on both -G-rim ever since I turboed the car and the GVR4.
As for filters most of them have that "anti drain back" feature now. I steer away from Fram filters. Their filters don't have the best filteration. I either use OEM Mitsu or Purelator One.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pvu_rida)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yeah I just switch to Castrol High Milaege and i like it for some crazy reason. I figure i should use that cause i have about 165,000 miles</div>
im about to hit 100k and i been using that since i hit 80k no complaints so far.
BigMoneyDay system seems to be the way to go. Id love to see my Gs engine last that long.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pvu_rida)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yeah I just switch to Castrol High Milaege and i like it for some crazy reason. I figure i should use that cause i have about 165,000 miles</div>
How the hell do you guys have so many miles on your cars. I have a 00 with only 43000. Even it hits like 90000 im going to get rid of it
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(galantsleeper00)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pvu_rida)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yeah I just switch to Castrol High Milaege and i like it for some crazy reason. I figure i should use that cause i have about 165,000 miles</div>
How the hell do you guys have so many miles on your cars. I have a 00 with only 43000. Even it hits like 90000 im going to get rid of it</div>
DAMN! 43000? do u just park yr car in the garage n not use it for months or wat? i have 107xxx n i have a 00....
n yeah i just use penzoil or castrol....
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(wannabee)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(galantsleeper00)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pvu_rida)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yeah I just switch to Castrol High Milaege and i like it for some crazy reason. I figure i should use that cause i have about 165,000 miles</div>
How the hell do you guys have so many miles on your cars. I have a 00 with only 43000. Even it hits like 90000 im going to get rid of it</div>
DAMN! 43000? do u just park yr car in the garage n not use it for months or wat? i have 107xxx n i have a 00....
n yeah i just use penzoil or castrol....</div>
thats nothing my 01 is barely 20k :oops:
damn gladitor....... u still got a factory warranty....lucky bastard lol
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pvu_rida)</div><div class='quotemain'>damn gladitor....... u still got a factory warranty....lucky bastard lol</div>
mine is 11000km (Not miles) and it's '02.
Been using Quaker State Advanced Synthetic for a while now. Just hit 80K.