NoOb, how to set timings on car

well i got car scanned it dropped a code i don't remember which it was but it said that the engines timing was off, now this explain my excessive shaking, lots of noise, crappy i mean shitty fuel economy and 200rpm idles. i took the car to a few mechanics around and they say the car is in perfectly working order, which i know is wrong, all these problems started when i replaced the water pump, the 2 timing belts and tensioner, i also get an horrible grinding noise when pulling from any gear, wich can also be my engine mounts, so what are your opinions?

Sounds like the shop where you got your work done did something wrong.

http://vfaq.com/proj-pics/Tbelt/96-004.gif

Above is a picture of a 4G63, but I am only using this as a reference.

Check if your timing marks are all aligned to see if they installed the timing belt wrong. This will require you to remove the timing cover so you can visually see the timing marks on the crank and oil pump pulleys. The timing marks on the 4G63 diagram pictured above are the same as the 4G64, but the 4G64 is single cam, not DOHC like the pic above. On the 4G64 the timing mark is on the side of the valve cover which you should see a vertial line indented to the side of the valve cover. There is a notch on the cam gear also. Rotate the crankshaft to align the notch on the cam gear to the line on the side of the valve cover. Once you got those aligned...check and see if the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and oil pump pulley are aligned. They should be all aligned along with the balance shaft belts pulleys.

http://vfaq.com/proj-pics/Tbelt/96-010.gif

ALL these marks should be aligned and if not your timing is obviously off and can cause very poor engine performance and damged if not fix.

Link link:

http://galantspeed.net/downloads/man...procedures.pdf

SOHC engine overhaul. Timing belt talk starts at page 32. Definitely recheck all your timing marks. Is the front bs or oil sprocket is off, it will just vibrate. If the cam gear or crank is off, will cause the issue you are seeing. Any check engine lights on?

thanks a lot for the help and and yes, check engine light is on. i had reset it a few times, but just turn the car on and in a few minutes comes back again. what if times is off? how do i make it be on time?


7g rulz

Take the timing cover off(lower and upper), turn the crank clockwise till the mark on the crank lines up, then check and see if the rest of the marks line up.

Take it back to the guy who repaired your timing belt and demand he fix it.

ok i removed the top cover, how do i remove the bottom cover? i removed the 3 bolts on the bottom. do i need ti remove something else?


http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1...tiongg4.th.jpg

There are 10mm bolts all up/down the bottum timing cover, at least 8.

DOHC picture, can kinda see where the bolts are, yours will be similar.
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/Tbelt/96-002.gif

so i do have to remove a sprocket?

You will have to remove the crank pully in order to remove the bottom front timing cover.

an i do so removing these 4 bolts right? and pulling it off?and i have to make sure it doesn't turn? counterclockwise? sorry if i ask 2 much i just don't want to mess up something, i am starting to change my mind about doing this I don't think i can

http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/8...8001fd5.th.jpg

ok i removed the pulley, now i cant get it out because of the metal i guess i have to remove that sides engine mount to loose the engine tiny bit in order to get it off right?

ok i loosen the engine mount got the pulley out, removed all bolts out, theres just one bolt thats giving me problems and its the one located behind the water pump pulley. am stuck here any advise? come on someone help me out PLZZZZZZZZ

you have to remove the pulley on the water pump as weel to get to that bolt behind the pulleys...
Leave the belts attached and place a screwdriver through the powerstering pulley while you remove the 4 bolts on the water pumpr pulley... Thats How i got it of..Just rotate after you do each one... Just takes time

ok i did everything, now to test do i have to reinstall all just to test and turn on the car?? or can i start the engine with the drivers side mount off, water pump, alternator, ac and everything that i disconnected as in like everything? lol but what if something is wrong. will the car blow up?

While it is too late now the best thing to have done was go back to who ever did your timing belts. They probbly miss aligned one of the marks.

Being you are in it as far as you are you should probably reconnect the motor mount if you plan to run the engine because you wrote your engine is running very rough (excessive shaking). If running it for just a short time it swill not be a problem to leave the fan belts off ( power steering, AC, alternator) while running it. BTW, you don't really need to run the car to check if the tinmimg marks are aligned; just bump the starter until one of the timing marks lines up. Then check the other timing marks to see if they are aligned.

One other thing to keep in mind is the silent shaft belt (smaller of the two belts replaced when doing a timing belt) can be installed with the timing mark aligned propery but the shaft 180 degrees off from where it should be. Pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual as they both discuss this fact. Personally I don't believe the silient shaft is your problem as if the silient shaft is 180 degrees off it just makes your engine run rough (more vibration); it does not affect you gas milage. You could also do a search for silent shaft and/or review this site's tutorial on replacement of a timing belt . I believe it is entitled 8g timing belt replacement but it is basicallty the same for a 7g.

yup that would have been the easiest way, i tried to make them correct the timing they just keep saying that they did a perfect job. but i already did it then if install the engine mount again i can run the engine without connecting everything else. one more thing i aligned all the marks the cam mark the oil pump mark. in the crank sprocket i saw the arrow but i didn't see where the arrow should align to. i did see some kind of a little stick there, so i aligned it to it. its in the same place the manual shows it should be

i think am done, all aligned car turned on. I noticed some sort of soft vibrations. i still haven't tried the car in gear. i am getting some sort of soft claking sound. after turning off the engine the marks are still aligned but i noticed that the cam sprocket is like half tooth off. now how do i correct this?

I think it was Seth who recommended (in another post) delibertly slipping the timing belt on one tooth short of having the timing marks being aligned. Then while tightening the belt tensioner, you cause it to end up alligned correctly. Being off just a hair should not be a major deal. Sucks that the shop that worked on your car just blew you off but on the bright side next time you need a timing belt (every 60K miles) you can do it yourself.

Two questions for you: 1. When you pulled the timing belt covers were the timing marks alligned? 2. Where is the soft clunking sund coming from? If you can't tell try can using a screwdriver as a listening tool. PLace the handle to your ear and then touch various parts of the engine with the other end. Be careful around the moving parts as dropping the screwdriver into a moving engine could ruin your whole day.

it looks like the sound is coming from near the cam sprocket. i installed the belt turned on the engine check engine light did not turn on after a few rev ups, then i checked back mark alignments they were a bit off i tried and realign them , tried again check engine light came on and with a little of backfire

Ive posted these several times but I will post them again to help you out. Two tips when installing a t-belt on a SOHC or DOHC motor:

1) Getting the oil sprocket in time. The way in the manual is correct, but there is an easier way to do it. Rotate the gear untill the timing mark is at 12 o'clock, let go of the gear. If the gear falls counter clockwise, rotate the gear clockwise untill its at 12 o'clock, let it go again, if it falls towards the mark then the balance shaft is in time, line it up with the mark(without rotating it anymore, should be close to the mark as is).

2) When you put pressure on the timing belt, it will take up some of the slack in the belt and cause your timing to be off a tooth. You can deliberately slip the belt on the cam gear so the cam gear timing is one tooth advanced. Usually have to use an open end wrench on the cam gear bolt to turn it just a hair.

Those are the only tricky parts. If you dont have the oil sprocket in time, you will have extra vibrations, no power loss. If your timing is off more then a tooth or two, you will notice driveability/performance issues. Good luck!

[Edit]
Adding one more:

3) When pulling the "Grenade" pin out of the auto tensioner, you should be able to slide the pin right back in. Once you pull the pin, rotate the crank with a wrench 8 times(or untill all the marks line back up, wait 10 min, and then try to put the grenade pin back in. You should be able to put the pin back in, sometimes it takes a little pressure. If you notice the tensioner rod in the tensioner noticeably move when you pull the pin, that means you did not tension the tensioner pulley enough.

Adding another muwah:

4) To set the tensioner pulley, the manual says to use the "special tool" which slides into the two small holes in the tensioner, and connects to a socket wrench. Those tools are expensive, and I broke one once so here is what I do. You only need a few tools: Socket wrench to tighten the tensioner pulley bolt, pair of vice grips, and an 'L' shaped allen wrench that will fit into one of the holes on the tensioner pulley. Its real easy to do, kinda hard to explain. I posted a sweet drawing of this concept a few years back.

First go ahead and clamp the vice grips to the long end of the allen wrench. Then basically just put the socket wrench onto the tensioner pulley bolt, and take the allen vice grip tool and slide the smaller side of the allen wrench into one of the holes in the tensioner pulley. When you push the vice grips, it uses the socket as a leverage point, and tightens the pulley.

OOOOhhh I found the pic lol!
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/6...tool4vt.th.jpg
(Except put the socket wrench on correctly lol!)

Did you find out what was the cause of your issues?

just tried it, advanced one tooth in the cam sprocket. still getting the sound and bakfires at 4 t 5k rpms. then cheked again and it still half tooth off btw i dont see any pin on the auto tensioner

Sorry this is no help with the back firing problem but this picture shows where you insert a screw driver in the back of your enhine block to ensure the balance shaft is aligned correctly when doing a timing belt. If your engine has excessive vibration after doing a timing belt the two most likely causes are not aligning all the timing marks or the balance shaft is 180 degrees out of alignment despite having the timing mark aligned. Picture is shot from the ground looking up.

awesome i saw this on the manul but couldnt find the hole lol. today ill get that belt out an realign it see if everything works fine, if not i found a guy that says he can do it correctly for 120$ guaranteed so guess ill have no choice one more thing.... how do i remove the crank sprocket?

Or you could follow my directions above in Step 1, a lot easier. And if you take the belt off, you are supposed to take the tensioner off, compress it with a c-clamp, put a pin(or 10 penny nail) in the hole, reinstall the tensioner(while still being compressed), align your timing marks, set the tension for the t-belt with the tensioner pulley, then pull the pin out of the auto tensioner. If the shaft in the auto tensioner moves, you dont have enough tension on the t-belt with the tensioner pulley. At that point if you cant put the pin back into the auto tensioner, you have to take it off again, compress it again with a c-clamp, put the pin back in, reinstall the auto tensioner, then re-tension the belt, this time with more tension the previous, and pull the pin again.

After all that if you can pull the pin and put it back in rather easily, turn the crank 8-10 times till eerything is re-aligned, wait 10 minutes, and try to put the pin back into the auto tensioner. If you can put it back in, the tension is set correctly, if not, theres not enough tension on the belt.

lol at first when i read that i didnt understand a thing now all makes sense lol am such a noob anyway in this procedure do i still need to remove the crank sprocket? the sprocket for the outer belt

Follow this link to tutorial on how to change timing beltand then scroll down to picture of the crankshaft pulley https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16604

Basically you just need to pull the center bolt on the pulley. A half inch drive from a socket set fits in the opening. If you have access to an air compressor and air tool, that is the easiest way to pop it off.