8G I4 to V6 throttle body swap
Disclaimer: TGC and myself are not resposible for any damages that might occur as you follow this tutorial. Install at your own risk!
Ok, so I bought a V6 throttle body from Beam514 for my 4G64 and installed it through out last night and today.
I took the hood of my car because it is easier to work on something by the firewall without the hood than with it. You can take yours off or keep it works either way. I also removed my strut bar for easy installation.
Tools needed
Ratchet
Sockets:
14mm
12mm
10mm
8mm
7mm
7mm miniwrench
needle nose pliers
vice grip
an assortment of flathead and phillips screw driver.
and a dremel and cutting disc
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3619.jpg
First thing you have to remove is the Battery terminals the battery tie downs and battery. I have quick release terminals but I think the stock terminals are 8mm I believe and the battery tie downs are 10mm.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3591.jpg
Unplug the MAF
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3592.jpg
Remove the breather tube from the VC to the intake
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3593.jpg
Now use your 10mm socket and loosen the clamp on the 90 degree coupler on the throttle body. Remove the 10mm ground bolt from the cam sensor that mounts the intake to the engine. Remove the intake.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3594.jpg
Intake removed. You can now see the throttle body
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3595.jpg
Unhook the vacuum line from the cruise control. It might need a little force but make sure not to tug on it too hard.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3596.jpg
unplug the IAC.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3597.jpg
This is where it gets a little difficult. If you got big hand this is where you start cutting your shit up. lol
There are two major coolant lines you have to remove. one behind the throttle body that connects to the EGR and one that is under the throttle body that connects to the lower radiator hose inlet.
use either a flat head or phillips to loosen the clamps on the coolant line on the back of the throttle body. whichever works for you. and use a needle nose or a vice grip (Crescent) for the ones under the throttle body.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3598.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3601.jpg
Now, unplug the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3603.jpg
It gets a little difficult here. I opted to remove the whole thing off of the TB because I couldnt get any leverage or my hands anywhere behind the connector to get the retaining clip off to get it off of the TPS. This is where the 7mm socket and miniwrench comes in.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3605.jpg
Use the socket on the drivers side screw and use the miniwrench for the passenger side screw. Wiggle the TPS out. BE CAREFUL.
Use a flathead to pop the retaining clip off of the connector to the TPS. Be careful to not fling it into space because the connector wont go back onto the TPS without that clip!
Heres the TPS off of the TB.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3606.jpg
Now moving onto the Throttle body. The Throttle Body has 4 bolts holding it onto the Intake manifold. You can see all four in this picture.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3607.jpg
Loosen all four bolts and remove the TB. Don't lose the metal gasket and dont forget to remove the lines on top of the TB. You can now remove the throttle cable. It'll take a little fiddling but I advice to remove the TB off of the intake manifold before removing the cable because it will give you enough slack to remove the cable without kinking it.
Side by side the intake side of the I4 TB and the V6 TB has no diffrence but the intake manifold side is significantly bigger. I'm not exactly sure on how big the I4 TB is but the V6 is a 60mm and its a noticeable difference when you're holding the two TB's side by side.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3608.jpg
V6 TB on top. I4 TB on bottom
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3609.jpg
Before you bolt the TB onto the manifold, make sure to hook the throttle cable back on. Easier while you have slack than when its bolted to the manifold. Again, be careful and take your time fiddling with it to avoid kinking the cable. Once you got the cable on bolt the throttle body onto the manifold using the 12mm socket and ratchet.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3611.jpg
Hook the TPS Sensor back up. I was lucky enough to have had the V6 TPS sent to me by Beam so I didnt have to re-use the I4 TPS that I removed from the I4 TB. Remember that retaining clip? Lock the connector in with it. DONT LOSE IT!
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3612.jpg
hook the IAC back up again. Once again I was lucky enough that Beam sent me the IAC and TPS so I didnt have to reuse the I4 one.
*NOTE: You need the V6 IAC for this to work properly!
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3613.jpg
Hook all the lines back up. This will take a little bit of fiddling because the tubes they go on face a different way than the I4 TB so you will have to modify your lines. You're going to have to extend the lines that are located in the back of the TB and shorten the ones under. I cut one of the tubes from the I4 TB to connect to lines for the back. Thats where you need the dremel and cutting disc. Tighten the clamps.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3614.jpg
Put the intake back on and tighten the clamp with the 10mm.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3615.jpg
Now, put the battery, battery tie down, and battery terminals back in. Plug your MAF back in and start her up!!!
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/IMG_3616.jpg
Put your STB and hood back on and take her out for a spin.
Update: I drove the car today to go to work about an hour away and let me tell you the TB swap was one of the best mods i've done. Noticeable difference in response and the engine works at a lower RPM at a certain speed than the I4 TB.
IAC is the problem by process of elimination
4g63lover,
in your tut you said "i was lucky to have the IAC to" lucky is definitely the word for it heh, the new style iac run's on vacuum the V6 throttle body has a larger bore IAC port than the I4 IAC port by i'd guesstimate 2-3mm give or take .5mm therefore using the I4 IAC is not possible, you have to use the V6 IAC so you get the proper vacuum to the IAC sensor and get the correct idle speed, how i came to this conclusion.
after tinkering with it all night long adjusting throttle cable tension, swapping out the TPS sensor's, adjusting the TPS sensor position, even pulling out a multimeter and adjusting per the service manual, i finally got it to idle steady at 3.5k rpms, car ran fine no codes 100% drive-able, if you call the idle speed in drive 1.5k rpms drivable, so i finally said phooye and was switching back to my stock throttle body.
I decided to take a close look at all the small differences between the two and that's when i noticed the IAC port, it's significantly larger on the V6 than the I4 "significantly for vacuum purposes anyways". finished putting on the I4 throttle body car runes perfect. so my conclusion is you need the IAC from the V6 to make this swap, i don't have the means to get one right now and test the theory but i'll update it about a week and let everyone know.
Poison
Edit
to further this theory i pulled the part #'s for the IAC's
I4 acdelco 2171827 OEM 89053340
v6 acdelco 2171821 OEM 89053334
so looks like i'll be heading back the junkyard in a few days trying to find an IAC for a v6
Edit 2
according to the service manual the I4 throttle body is 54mm, and the v6 is 60mm i'm going to bore out the intake manifold to match the v6 throttle body when i get the new IAC and will post up pics and info on performance