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so i got the aeroquip parts today (http://img39.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img39&image...le_aeroquip.jpg) and i put them onto the teflon steel braided line, and i'm already screwing shit up. i put both ends on, used thread sealer, and tightened them down. good to go, i thought. i put my mouth on one end, blew real hard, and put my thumb on the other really tight, and I can hear air leaking out from the flared part of the fitting. what the hell did i do wrong?
If you think you had everything nice and sealed, maybe you got a bad fitting. How many layers of tape did you use?
actually, i'm a moron. when i was "testing" it, by blowing air in it (so ghetto :roll: ) i wasn't pulling the fittings out, to simulate the male-to-male -3an fittings being in there. i just re-tested it last night and it worked 100%. i'm a moron. delete this thread to save me some humility
Yes, make sure you blow the male end!!! hahahahhhahahahahahhahahah, ok, I'm a loser. :cry:Quote:
Originally Posted by peanotation
Hey peano...I just got mine today...still waiting on the Earls parts from a different store....summit racing is very quick and reliable.
I'm just running straight from the master, to the slave....but, do you have any instructions on how to install the fittings to the teflon line? Sorry, but, i've never used this before.
Thanks!
no problem, i already have the pics ready for the soon-to-be-written tutorial
what you have is 5 parts total. the SS teflon line, 2 -3an aeroquip straight female hose fittings, and two earl -3an male to male fittings, with one end convex and one end convave.
http://socallifestyle.com/swap/clutc...edaeroquip.jpg
you want to take your teflone line, and cut back the metal "sheathing" about 1/4-1/2" an inch. this will expose the actual plastic teflon line. slip the brass fitting (pictured above) onto the end of the newly circumsized line (har har). then slide that end with the brass condom (HA HA) on that penis looking piece all the way on the right side of the pic. THEN, slide that piece all the way on the left over the brass/penis piece combo. then screw it on, and use some thread sealer.
after a few turns it will start to get pretty tough. this is good, its compressing the brass fitting to make a perfect seal over the teflon line. use wrenches and get the two pieces flush. you obviously have to put the left piece on first so you can slide it over the brass/penis combo.
finished:
http://socallifestyle.com/swap/clutc...osefitting.jpg
lmfao!! i just see/hear stewie saying that one, and brian just looking at him shaking his head.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChikagoGTZ
Hmmm.....interesting....so far every tutorial I've read....says NOT to cut back the braids.....but you say to do it? I dunno....
do it man... do it, DO IT.... https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/laugh.gif ... nice job on the tutorial peano...
I didnt cut mine back, but I have not tested mine yet. I need to go buy some Dot 4/5 and test it. I will let you guys know how it went.
Even with my -8AN fuel lines, I did not cut the braid back at all.
it doesn't really matter. if you cut it back, it allows for a more secure clamp in my mind, cause it can chomp down on the thick plastic line. if you don't cut it back, it can't get a good seal cause of the metal threads. in my mind, it would be like putting your valve cover on with toothpics sticking out from underneat. not a very good seal.
i mean, whatever metal you cut back, is strictly reinforced by the aeroquip female fitting, so it's not like you have inches of line that's "exposed".
ok, well that was depressing. i got my EARL 581531 -3an male-to-male adapters today, and they dont' work, because the male ends that screw into the slave/master arn't long enough, so there isn't a seal of any kind. i'm not sure if the 581531 EARL adapters will work for anyone, but they sure as hell didn't work for me. you need ones with longer concaved ends.
the ones i got is the one on the right, the ones you need is the one on the left
http://img39.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img39&image...ls_compared.jpg
edit: ok, summit DOES have these parts in stock, they just don't say so on the website. i just ordered 2 EARL'S 581533 ($28.33 total :? )
comparison chart from holley
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Prod...PPA/592032.html
I ordered one set of the Earls and banjoed the slave cylinder.
That's what i'm doing too....banjo...that is...
Once you get this done, lemme know what parts fit the best, and how you specifically ran the line. My car is sitting in the garage right now, unable to move due to a broken hardline from accumulator to slave. I wanna know how this works and if it prevents anymore problems.
Any idea what would cause my car to break 5 hardlines in a row?
Hey dark....I talked to a guy who knows alot about clutches and trannys...and he told me to check my tranny mounts....because if the tranny jumps/shifts too much..that steel line to the slave...will just crack/break. I have also been through ALOT of those lines in the past few months, which is why i'm going with the teflon...more flex, and holds more pressure.
Thats a thought, I guess my mounts could be bad. Will have to check those. Replacing those at home isn't that hard either.
hmm, i guess i was wrong about one part. you want to cut back just a tiny bit of the metal sheathing so you can fit the compression fitting over it, but when you go to tighten up the aeroquip fitting, you want the "waist" of it to be squeezing the metal sheath on top of the plastic on top of the compression fitting. i realize that makes no sense, but basically, you want to have metal sheathing under the part that clamps the hose together. try to not cut any if you can, but it'll be hard to get the brass fitting in there.
well it's been about 1,500 miles with the tranny in, and just wanted to say that i'm having a very minor leak on the teflon line. it's the end that goes into the slave, so it's a bitch to get to, but the master cylinder reservoir has gone down about 1/2" so it's minor enough to keep driving it. i think eventually i'll have to re-do that compression fitting though. so i guess the moral is, use a thread and compression sealant to ensure a better fit
stupid question but.. how much did it cost you for the parts to make the clutch line..Those stupid an fittings arent cheap, neither is braided line. If I were to buy the parts through summit it would cost me a hell of a lot more then it would to buy it ready made from RRE.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>stupid question but.. how much did it cost you for the parts to make the clutch line..Those stupid an fittings arent cheap, neither is braided line. Â*If I were to buy the parts through summit it would cost me a hell of a lot more then it would to buy it ready made from RRE.</div>
RRE has it already made? show me where. the "Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Flex Line" that RRE sells is only a SS line to go from the firewall to the tranny. it eliminates the rubber hose that runs from the hardline to the accumilator. it is not nearly long enough to go from the master to the slave
unless you're talking about something else completely
I just took a quick glance, my mistake. I thought it was the entier line from master to slave...o well..
You should have used the banjo bolt for the slave. I dont know, they use a banjo bolt stock, so I assume using a banjo bolt it wouldnt leak. Im using the banjo :wink:
O I forget how much it costs. I posted it in a thread once, here I will quote myself https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ult/tongue.gif
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Me)</div><div class='quotemain'>
#5. IF adapter
Earl's 581531 -3AN male to 3/8-24 inverted flare male adapter.
http://img39.exs.cx/img39/9950/10958...ompared.th.jpg
#4. Female fitting
Aeroquip FCM1100 -3AN straight TFE female hose fitting. >> more
http://img39.exs.cx/img39/9071/10958...eroquip.th.jpg
#3. Teflon racing hose
Aeroquip FCC0310 -3 teflon racing hose, 10ft. You don't need 10ft., you can order custom length(diff. p/n).
#2. Banjo
Aeroquip FCM3091 -3 TFE hose fitting, 10mm.
http://img39.exs.cx/img39/6321/10958...eroquip.th.jpg
#1. Banjo bolt
Aeroquip FCM2921 banjo bolt 3/8-24 /w 2 crush washers.
http://img39.exs.cx/img39/4158/10958...eroquip.th.jpg
You can order all these parts from Summit except for the earls part, its out of stock. Â*Total comes to around $60.</div>
well, that wouldn't neccesarily work, because the connection at my slave is the same at my master, and it's not leaking at my masterQuote:
Originally Posted by seth98esT
I have the same master as you but I am using the banjo master.
but what i realized, it's not leaking at the connection, it's leaking at the compression where the aeroquip fitting clamps down onto the hose. how it mates to the slave or master isn't the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by seth98esT
Hey, I found ALL those parts at Summit online for like 65 before shipping. I am going to do that next paycheck.
it's definitely well worth it, like i said, just use a good sealant against the compression fitting on the SS lineQuote:
Originally Posted by Dark7GHawk
So what did you seal it with? I dont like the design of AN fittings and how SS line connects to them. Seems way to prone to leakage. Im scared to use them with my fuel lines, but I guess of those top fuel guys use them, so can I https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ult/tongue.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by peanotation
i dont blame you, the way they clamp onto the hose made me lose all my faith i had in the teflon line. i didn't use any sealant, but when i rip it apart, i'll have to just fill it up with some kind of compression sealant, likea caulking derivitiveQuote:
Originally Posted by seth98esT
Perhaps a tighter grip on the line is required, any rubber line should seal against metal is proper pressure is applied.
I will see if mine is a prob when I get it next paycheck.
Damn car is puffing white smoke upon startup since it sat so long... Must be the valve seals, hope it goes away once its warmed up and the seals are lubed again...