2000-3000 rpms when car is in park or neutral!!!

Yea once I start'er up the rpm's go to somewhere between 2-3000 just sitting there in park and/or - if/when I shift into neutral. Once in drive they fall back to the normal range, but the dang thing nearly wants to drive itself! I can fully feel it pulling and wanting to go; without my foot holding the brake it'll cruise by itself doing about 15-25mph, easily. I was told by a mech that the IAC needs replacing, so I jumped online to find one and realized there's a little IAC valve module thing AND one that can go under the throttle body made of metal with a place for two hoses and a electrical connector. So my questions are, is the dude right and will it fix the high idle? And which one of these IAC's do I need??? One's like $80 bucks and the other is $200 and up, respectively. Is there anything ELSE that could cause this? https://www.thegalantcenter.org/imag...017.gif Thanks in advance!!!

** specs that may help**vv

1994 MITSUBISHI GALANT ES/LS
World region:North America
Manufactured in:USA
Year:1994
Make:Mitsubishi
Model:GALANT ES/LS
Body style:Sedan 4 Door
Transmission:4 Spd Automatic
Drive type:FWD
Cylinders:4 Cylinders
Safety restraints:Dual Front Air Bags
Standard options:Air Conditioning, Power Steering,
Power Brakes, Power Windows, Tilt Wheel, AM/FM Stereo, Cassette

when you first start it idles at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm,does it drop down after about three minutes or so?

Start it an let the car warm up to normal temperature range if it drops to 800-1000rpm then you are good its to help the car warm up it idles high.

Does it ever freak out and do this while you are driving? If so it is you idle air control motor my car used to do this too found a used one on ebay fll tbody for like 45 buck and it installs in a couple mins try taking it of and cleaning it out with some carb clean first though may help for a little bit

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Originally Posted by galantlvr34

when you first start it idles at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm,does it drop down after about three minutes or so?

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No - It'll stay there as long as it's in park or neutral. Only in D or R will it drop to normal, but then there's the pulling. It wants to go by itself!

Yea that's what mine was doing look for athrottle body on ebay just make sure you figure out what iac plug you have first there is the round one and the rectangular ones

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Sounds like TPS, BISS and a SAS combined problem.

For the rpms to go that high the TPS or more specifically the closed throttle switch isnt closed, so it needs adjustment there first.

After thats done you need to play with the BISS screw to have the rpms at around 900

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Originally Posted by mko

Sounds like TPS, BISS and a SAS combined problem.

For the rpms to go that high the TPS or more specifically the closed throttle switch isnt closed, so it needs adjustment there first.

After thats done you need to play with the BISS screw to have the rpms at around 900

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my car idles at 2000-2200 when i first start it and about three minutes it drops down to around 1500 and it bottoms out to around 1000 warmed up.what do you think is wrong with my car?

as long as it drops down after some time and doesnt bounce then its fine.

Id still have the TPS checked out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mko

as long as it drops down after some time and doesnt bounce then its fine.

Id still have the TPS checked out.

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it kind of does bounce a little sometimes 1100, sometimes 1200,and sometimes 1000.how can i check the tps?

http://dc131.4shared.com/img/TM6N8wB...adjustment.jpg

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Originally Posted by mko

http://dc131.4shared.com/img/TM6N8wB...adjustment.jpg

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thanks.i will try that and see if that is the problem.

Maybe your throttle body is sticking

no its the iac, same exact problem i had.

here
rectangular plug
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-95...ht_2701wt_1165
i have a iac that is the round plug laying around too that i would be willing to part with.

Well I went and snatched out a throttle body assembly with the IAC attached. I got the TPS too while I was at it. Seems pretty simple to install. I have a quick , potentially confusing question to ask first. Ok, everywhere i've looked on the 'net says I have the 7G Galant. Information said you know this by the numbers in the middle of the vin??? My vin#'s in the mid section are J56G4RE...no mention of a 7 in there. Does this matter? Then, these parts came out of a '95, mine's a '94. Compatible? Ok so that was three- I just wanna make sure the stuff will work!!! Anyway, my rig looks like this one: http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Qvt7EVPQTN04n-

yes you have a 7g galant.i believe you can use any parts from 1994-1998.the parts you got should deffinantly fit.

YEEEAYUH!!! I hope this fixes my idle rpm/wanting to drive itself problem. Thanks for the help. I'm off to get greazy...will post results later.

no problem let me know what happens i kind of have the same problem.

Success!!!...well, partially. I say partially because I got the Throttle Body/IAC and TPS all in without any problems and the high idle is gone, back to just below 1000rpm (good) but now the engine is smelling a little exhausty and I got a check engine light(bad?) gleaming in my face. I unplugged the battery and waited to reset everything to see if it'd come back, and it did. Other than that, she's purring like a kitty-in-a-Gstring-sitting-in-my-lap-that-knows-I-have-a-pocket-full-of-singles. So what gives with the CE light and that smell??? It ain't the kitty...

you have to get the code scanned and then figure it out from there.otherwise it is hard to pin point the problem,but the high idle is gone now?you might just have to drive it for like hundred or so miles for the computer to reset itself,the computer has to teach itself how to adjust to the new sensors.i think autozone could scan it for you.

Good advice. I'll most definitely let them scan it. Thanks everyone for everything!

no problem.let us know what the code is.the check engine light might go off on its own after you drive it too.if it doesnt maybe you can try disconnecting the battery over night and see what happens.