Dude muff this car it wont freakin start its pissed me off for the last time distributor is fine, did a full tune up, and nothing, so if theres anything i can do let me know or this POS is going to the scrap yard.
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Dude muff this car it wont freakin start its pissed me off for the last time distributor is fine, did a full tune up, and nothing, so if theres anything i can do let me know or this POS is going to the scrap yard.
thats funny. mine runs day in, day out no problems......
check for fuel and spark. battery and the starter are usually the first thing to look at.
but just a vague "it won't start" won't help us help you
did all the above it wont start but it turns over
so fuel pump, fuel filter and all that are good too? list whats new.
Basically you need three things to make a motor run; air fuel and spark all occuring at the right time and in the right amounts. So do you have spark? Do you have fuel? That's what Gallanttuner10 is asking you. BTW, Haynes manual has a good troubling shooting section for galants on page 0-21 of it Galant 1994-2003 manual. If you don't have one, pick one up at autozone.
I have spark, i have fuel, and i dont get why i wouldnt have air. lol
The fuel pump is engaging when i go to start the car, fuel pressure is excellent.
I tested the distributor, i have spark. my guess is sensors, but my check engine light hasnt came on, my heater fan went out a month ago and im thinking that made something electrical poop out, i checked all the fuses, they are all good including the heater fan, my defroster went out at the same time my heater fan did, could it be my computer and wire harness?? if so ill just do a dohc swap. but first i need to get this thing running.
Maybe a plugged catalytic converter. A noticeable decrease in power or minimal revs especially when hot is a good indicator. If left unfixed eventually it wont start, its like stuffing a potato in a muffler.
As your engines turns over when you turn the key and you have fuel, 2) spark (air is a given if you still have the stock air filter system) the most likely causes of not starting are broken or slipped timing belt (check that the alignment marks are alligned), bad crankshaft/camshaft sensor (depends on year of car) or bad ECU.
Things that would be helpful are :
Why did you do a full tune up? I assume that means you changed the plugs, wires, distro cap, rotor and correctly gapped the plugs to 1.0-1.1 mm and did not get any plug wires crossed to the wrong plug.
What happened just before the car started acting up?
How did you test for spark? (I like to pull the spark plug, reattach the plug wire and then ground it against the car and then watch for a spark.)
When you crank the engine to try and start it does it spin faster and easier?
yes i took a spark plug out and grounded it lol i got spark.
i did the tune up cause i thought that was the problem. its a 95. the wires are matched right with the cap and engine. and it just keeps turning as fast as the starter turns it and wont start. the plugs are gapped correctly, what timing marks do i have to look at? and it didnt act up before it died or anything, it just died while i was driving.
timing belt is gone from the sound of it
What was happening before the tune up that made you decide to do a tune up?
I ask about the engine spinning because if a timing belt breaks the engine will spin very freely when the starter is engaged. It spins freely because the valves are no longer being opened and closed like they should and as such the engine does not develop compression. Compression slowes down the spinning of the engine when cranking the starter due to the extra drag on the engine. The timing marks are under the plastic timing belt covers that cover the timing belt. It is a lot of work to pull them; have to remove fan belts, water pump cover, and work in a space with little clearance. Try just removing the top timing belt cover and see if your timing belt is damaged/broke.
nothing out of the ordinary, my dad gave me the car and he put tons of miles on it since its last tune up. the timing belt looks okay, i mean it looks like it needs to be changed in the near future but its rotating.
That's very good that your timing belt is not broke. In most cases when a timing belt breaks the valves and pistoin collide and you end up with junk for an engine.
So if I understand correctly, the car was running fine before you did the tune up. You did the tune up because the car had a lot of miles and now it won't start. Is that correct?
no i did the tune up cause that's the only thing i didnt do to see if that's why the car stopped running.
Okay, go back and tell us what happened just before and when the car stopped runnning? Was it running when you got it?
Yes i was driving it when it suddenly wouldnt accelerate. felt like it ran out of gas, so thats when i looked at the fuel system and the fuels system was fine.
Compression test all 4 cylinders. post results
190...182...184...185..
How can i tell if the timing is off?
nothing wrong with those numbers. You tested for spark on all 4 plugs/wires not just 1?
are spark plugs wet with fuel right after attempting to start?
What about TPS sensor? Or the the throttle plate itself not moving to let air in. Just throwing out some other suggestions in case they were over looked.
so far 1 spark plug had raw fuel on it, and it wont start even with my foot on the gas the throttle plate moves.
Bad gas? Also check for spark on your other 3 plugs and make sure they're wet with fuel also. Just to rule out injectors not firing.
I doubt your timing belt is broken, as I believe you wouldn't get any spark at all if that were the case, since the distributor is turned by the camshaft. If the timing belt were broken, the camshaft wouldn't spin, neither would the rotor in the distributor, and therefore no spark. Also you have compression.
Yea, all of the plugs were wet with fuel. and they all had a spark.
My guess is reply 7, try cracking exhaust loose before the cat. converter
so is it a timing issue? or an electrical issue (ECM).
It probably isn't a mechanical timing issue as your compression readings look good. To know for sure, take all the spark plugs out, rotate the engine clockwise with a socket and ratchet until the crank pulley timing mark is aligned with the mark on the lower timing cover. Remove the distributor cap and verify that the rotor button is pointing at the #1 cylinder contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhenne08
After you've done that, verify that the word "up" etched into the camshaft sprocket is facing up. If all 3 things (crank pulley, distributor rotor, camshaft sprocket) are pointing at TDC, your timing is correct.
I agree with reply 7. Disconnect the exhaust before the cat.
Probably nothing to do with timing. I'd assume timing is fine because you said the car was running before you tuned it up. Also as you have good compression numbers, I doubt it has anything to do with timing so long as you have not done anything with the timing belt. Slight posibility that the timing belt has slipped but again that's not likely.
Just to be certain, you didn't do anything to the timing belt did you?
He said all plugs are wet with gas so fuel delivery sounds good. If it has a gas smell from all the cranking of the engine (i.e., it should be flooded by now ), then I'd assume the gas is good.
He tuned it up only because it didn't have any power. He has said no wires were crossed and the plugs were gapped correctly during the tune up so the car should be able to at least start as it was running before the tune up. That makes me wonder if something got messed up during the tune up; wire knocked loose? Assuming that is not the case then that leads me to question a clogged catalytic converter or one of the sensors.
Let's focus on the exhaust. I've never tried dropping the exhaust pipe at the header and running the engine before. What do other think about doing that to see if it is the catalytic converter?
FYI: I would not run the engine much for concerns about cold air contracting hot exhaust valves due header being open to outside air but figure as a test, an attempt to start it with the exhaust removed from the header would not hurt anything as long as you shut it down right after it does start, if it starts. Others thoughts?
no it stopped running, so thats when i did the tune up, because it stopped running while i was driving it, with no sign of breaking down it just quit.
no its the cat.. idk wtf it could be
possibly when your heater blower motor went out it could have cause frying like you stated? or even mabey the sugested tps? dose it try and kick over or dose it not do anything at this point?
unrelated but how many miles on your odometer?
the body has 168000 miles and the motor has just over 200,000.
check the intake tube between sensor and throttle body the accordian area, a small rip in the tube/hose can do that.
its fine
Try spraying some ether but if you truly have good fuel and fuel pressure I doubt this will get any results though.
my guess at this point is a *fryed ecu or somthing electrical* due to the fact that fuel system and delivery is good and all air circulation good.. of course bad air circulation really wouldnt not "allow" the car to start unless you have your intake piping disconected from the throttle body itself..