1998 galant 4g64 2.4 cranks but wont start

had in mechanics shop for month. was in car idleing with ac on and radio when call just shut off like i turnes the ignition off. cranks but wont start. mechanic replaced timing belt, balance shaft belt, crank position sensor, distribtor, ecu, ignition swith. no spark or pulsng to the injectors has a good power supply but no grond to injectors. checke mfi relays fuses and entire wire harness for bad shorts burt wires. checked all grounds no luck. back at my house. pulled codes and P 0335 crank position sensor a circuit malfunction comes up. reset code and no codes found. battery in good condition. what culd possibly be the cause. i dont know much about thses calls and dont have a lot of money. any help or advice would greatly be appreciated. thanks again.really enjoyed my galant ran wonderful until now .

get ur starter or altenator checked out...

you aren't going to get any ground from the injectors.

thats how the ecu opens the injectors, by grounding the circuit.
so they are always getting power.
have you tried just for shits and giggles switching out the ecu?


have you tried energizing the fuel pump via the fuel pump check terminal? to see if its jsut yoru fuel pump that has failed?

alternator brand new and starter swapped ecu already i get fuel to the fuel rail alreadt checked

could the crank sensor be faulty its brand new mechanic put it on how can i check

Quote:

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Originally Posted by minionseals

could the crank sensor be faulty its brand new mechanic put it on how can i check

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If i remember correctly the TRUE way to check a crank sensor is with an oscilliscope (sp?)... It sounds like you have a bad crank sensor though. Mine went out and i had no spark or fuel but the car turned over just fine. There is a fuel pump check wire on the wiring harness thats mounted on the fire wall. Its one wire with a black pig tail. I believe mine was under all of the vacuum solenoids mounted on the firewall. I believe in order to check it you just have to turn a wire from that wire to the positive on the battery and if u hear the fuel pump cut on then its working.*edit* Just thinking.. Ok.. WHen i rebuilt my motor i put the crank sensor trigger plate on backwards. I can almost GURANTEE you that is what your mechanic did and thats why your shit isnt working. SO make him check that and you be there to check it. It will be REALLY obvious when you look at it because youll see the outline from the balance shaft gear which is behind the timing gear.

good luck man... Whas this an actuall repair shop you had all this work done at? If so i would make them figure it out.. Where was the work done? sounds like you have had alot of work done.

mechanic shop in town how do i pull the crank pully off with out it spining on me the pully has no holes to pry something in to keep from spinning . i dont want to mess any thing up. how do i get to the cps the easiest way?

its a brand new cps he put on because the balance belt broke and cut into it he replaced all that

its back at my house

cant get the crank pulley off it keeps spinning and i have no holes in it to pry something in to keep it from turning? trying to pull off the timing cover myself to check the sensor and relctor plate . any ideas that would be easier

the shop u took it to should be figuring this out for you, if not give you your money back because they did not fix it. I know my customers wouldnt take it in the ass like that, I would take it back to the repair shop and tell them fix it or give me my money back, i brought it in for this problem and the probelm is still there. How much money did you spend?

100 dollars

how do i get the crank pully off

cant get the big bolt off without it spining

only take the 4 bolts out.

then pry it off with a screwdriver

I think he is talking about taking off the crank pulley gear. Having a air impact gun makes life soo much easier removing that bolt. Using normal arm strength is difficult w/o some took to prevent the crank from moving.

take the inspection plate off the transmission, wedge a screwdriver in between the flywheel ring gear and the bell housing. Now you can go ahead and take off the bolt that holds the crank sprocket.

im tring to pull the bottom half of my timing cover off so do i need to take both the crank pully and the crank damper off to get it off or what? whats a crash bar . how do i get it off with ot a impact and keep it from turning by myself

my timing belt is on the left driver side
i dont understand im a newbie at this but want to lear appreciate all the help i can get

does the reluctor plate spin through the crank sensor because its on the outside

does the reluctor plate travel through the crank sensor because when i looked the mechanic had it on the outside of it

I went threw hell and back. Seems that the Crank sensor plate that is attached to the crank shaft its self was backwards. Mine would start and run and everything. Untill you tried to give it gas. then it died out.

But i tore it all down, and rebuilt it again, finally got it working, untill tonight.

To remove your crank pulley:

1. Jack the front of the car up until the wheels are off the ground. Make sure you support it very securely on jack stands!

2. Remove your exhaust's down pipe. Doing this is pretty self explainable as you look at it. Just remove the bolts attaching it at both ends, and it comes off.

3. Support the engine with your jack under the oil pan. Use a piece of board, like a 2x12, between your jack and the oil pan so you don't rip a hole in it. Raise the engine just a little (half inch or so) and remove the driver's side engine mount. It's easy to remove. Just unscrew whatever is holding it on.

4. Lower the engine (by lowering the jack) enough to get to the bolts on the crank pulley in step 5.

5. There are 4 bolts around the pulley. 12mm, I think. Take a large ratchet (and fitting socket), set it to “tighten”, and put it on the center bolt. Go ahead and spray some WD-40 on the center bolt at this time also.

6. Take a second ratchet (set to loosen), and put it on one of the 12mm bolts. As you turn the 2nd ratchet, the entire pulley will turn until the 1st ratchet (the big one) gets wedged on a piece of the car. You can now take off the 4 12mm bolts. You'll have to remove the big ratchet, turn the pulley (Turn the tire to turn the pulley.), and wedge the big ratchet again to get to one or two of the bolts.

7. After the 4 bolts are out, remove both ratchets. Take one of the bolts and screw it back into one of the holes just a few turns. Leave it loose. Set the 2nd ratchet to “tighten” and put it on the loose bolt. Turn the pulley till the ratchet is wedged just like the big ratchet was before.

8. Now set the big ratchet to “loosen” and put it on the center bolt. You can now loosen that bolt without everything turning. You'll need a metal pipe to put over the ratchet's handle to extend it for leverage. A pipe 3 - 4 feet in length should do it. With the ratchet on that center bolt, and the pipe extending the ratchet's handle, you still might have to stand on it or even jump on it to break the bolt loose.

In your case, since the shop just had it off, it probably won't be that difficult to loosen though. Hope this helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the_boogiman

To remove your crank pulley:

1. Jack the front of the car up until the wheels are off the ground. Make sure you support it very securely on jack stands!

2. Remove your exhaust's down pipe. Doing this is pretty self explainable as you look at it. Just remove the bolts attaching it at both ends, and it comes off.

3. Support the engine with your jack under the oil pan. Use a piece of board, like a 2x12, between your jack and the oil pan so you don't rip a hole in it. Raise the engine just a little (half inch or so) and remove the driver's side engine mount. It's easy to remove. Just unscrew whatever is holding it on.

4. Lower the engine (by lowering the jack) enough to get to the bolts on the crank pulley in step 5.

5. There are 4 bolts around the pulley. 12mm, I think. Take a large ratchet (and fitting socket), set it to “tighten”, and put it on the center bolt. Go ahead and spray some WD-40 on the center bolt at this time also.

6. Take a second ratchet (set to loosen), and put it on one of the 12mm bolts. As you turn the 2nd ratchet, the entire pulley will turn until the 1st ratchet (the big one) gets wedged on a piece of the car. You can now take off the 4 12mm bolts. You'll have to remove the big ratchet, turn the pulley (Turn the tire to turn the pulley.), and wedge the big ratchet again to get to one or two of the bolts.

7. After the 4 bolts are out, remove both ratchets. Take one of the bolts and screw it back into one of the holes just a few turns. Leave it loose. Set the 2nd ratchet to “tighten” and put it on the loose bolt. Turn the pulley till the ratchet is wedged just like the big ratchet was before.

8. Now set the big ratchet to “loosen” and put it on the center bolt. You can now loosen that bolt without everything turning. You'll need a metal pipe to put over the ratchet's handle to extend it for leverage. A pipe 3 - 4 feet in length should do it. With the ratchet on that center bolt, and the pipe extending the ratchet's handle, you still might have to stand on it or even jump on it to break the bolt loose.

In your case, since the shop just had it off, it probably won't be that difficult to loosen though. Hope this helps.

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Damn dude. You go through way too much unnecessary shit to get your crank pulley off. The hardest part is finding out how to get the crank bolt out. It should be tq'd at like 80 lbs. You just have to use your brain on that one. Since i went 5 speed i cant lock the crank through the inspection cover. Usually what i do is get a nice sized allen wrench. Put it in the hole on the crank pulley and there is a hole on the frame of the car. I kinda wedge it in there and snap that bolt loose. Good luck.