Turbo Help

Installed turbo on 98 galant, it hesitates when driving. I need to install fuel pressure regulator? Where does it go? How do I adjust it? Pics please.... Thnx :x

more info about the setup please.. stock head? fuel upgrades, which turbo, electronics, etc.

I got stock head no fuel upgreads garret t3 intercooled bov colder spark plugs..

which ecu do you have? no afc? no logger?? how are you tracking a/f ratio??

is this hesitation all the time? when low rpms, high rpms? when you get on the throttle fast? you have to give more details..

any pics of this setup?
sorry i cant help :?

when rev up and let go aff throtle the car cant go back to idle it goes back and forth couple of times from 500rpm to 1500 and it stalls or goes back to normal idle whitch is about 800-900rpms. when driving it also kind of hesitates for 4th of a second as rpm goes up when press on it like not enough fuel going in. i got stock ecu stock injectors and fuel pump

okay, so you haven't responded about the logger or safc.. you NEED those.. i don't know how you're planning on tuning it without them. if i were you, i would not floor it until getting those things to prevent disaster.. after getting those, you can tune it and then do what you want. if your bov vented to atmosphere? if so, and you're using the stock MAF (which i will assume you are because you didn't mention otherwise) then that can cause stalling issues as well. it causes you to run rich at idle (if you have a 1g bov which leaks at idle), when venting, and if you get to too high of a pressure (about 17-18psi+).

logger or safc?? thats a ecu Piggyback right ?? well i spoke with a guy that put a turbo on his car and he told me if install the fuel pressure regulator at stock fuel pressure which i dont know what it is yet. will go to mitsubishi dealer for that number. set the fueld pressure regulator 5 to 10 lbs more than stock and see how it runs.. But i dont know if the regulator goes before the fuel rail or after it where the srock fuel regulator is? or do i leave the stock one on and go after it?

"srock" - stock

i think what i am getting is too much air and not enough fuel mixture

you NEED a logger or S-AFC at least, also get a wideband O2 sensor, not one of those autometer a/f gauges that is just for reference. you also need a fuel pump bigger than stock, a 255lph will be fine, and an aftermarket Fuel pressure regulator. also make sure you do the fuel pump re-wire mod.

i'm sure i'm forgetting something, but seth will find this thread and tell you what's up, he's been there, done that.

i do have the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator thats what im trieng to see where it goes... Do i realy need i bigger fuel pump???

do i also need biger injectors

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(98galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>i do have the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator thats what im trieng to see where it goes... Do i realy need i bigger fuel pump???</div>

of course, more power = more gas, and the stock 7G fuel pump is pretty lame. i have the walbro190 but i'd recomend the walbro 255 for your setup. i dont have any experience with aftermarket FPRs, but i think you install them in line with your stock fuel delivery line from the pump just before it enters the fuel rail. i didn't need a pump for my 190, but for a 255 you do.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(98galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>do i also need biger injectors</div>

yes

Damn, sounds like you just threw a turbo in there without getting any of the essential parts. Listen to peno and sabiz they knows more about the 7g than a lot of people. You will definatly need the AFC as well as the wideband for tunning purposes, the walbro pump is a must, no fuel means no power at all, definatly the injectors which you can get a dime a dozen, i would suggest 440cc injectors, with 2 step colder plugs...And you hesitation mostly is from not fuel gettin in to the cylinder and well as you could be experiencing knock, which is not good at all. I hope we can help you out and get your turned into the right direction.

You don't NEED a bigger fuel pump. If you do the rewire you should be ok unless you're running high boost.

You DO NEED bigger injectors.. you're probably starving your engine of fuel. Get the Eclipse turbo injectors (450cc) and be sure to get the resistor pack to wire them as well.

Please DO NOT drive your car until you do some more research and install these parts. The FPR will help once all that is on.

Also, do you have a boost gauge and EGT gauge? You should have both.

the fpr will be installed on the driver-side end of the fuel rail. there are two bolts (10mm i believe) holding it on to the fuel rail. you will also need a fuel pressure gauge to be able to know what to set it to (not to mention, what it is set to right now).

what kind of turbo exactly did you install? do you even know? is it a pure t3, or a t3/t4? trim? you need to know what turbo you have to know what fuel upgrades you will need to support it.

if you're on the stock ecu, i don't even know what logger would be compatible. maybe dsmlogger would work, but i can't tell for sure. forget the egt gauge, it means nothing without a lot of other information. you do need a boost gauge though, and make sure your boost is set LOW. did you install this yourself, or did you have someone install it for you? if you had someone install it for you, ask them to write down everything installed in the setup, and post that up. how are you controlling boost?

you can't just install a fpr and be done with it. your stock injectors suck. you will need to upgrade to atleast the stock dsm injectors. don't raise your fuel pressure, do it right. get a bigger fuel pump, an adjustable fpr, set the pressure to stock, get bigger injectors, get an s-afc or other piggyback or ecu replacement, get a wideband o2. most of all, do research, you have a lot to learn about tuning. where do you live? someone local to you could help a lot more.

wideband o2 isn't absolutely necessary if you can get something to log with. but you need either a logger or a wideband o2. a good wideband will also be able to log, albeit not as much as a dedicated logger will.

before i can tell you what fuel upgrades you need, you have to tell use what kind of turbo you are running. how much air it can push is very important to know how much fuel you will need. what boost will you be running it at?

unfortunately, if you don't get some help with this asap, i fear your engine may be doomed. running lean causes detonation which is one of the engines worst enemies. i don't know if you should even be driving the car until you get this issue taken care of..

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sabzi5858)</div><div class='quotemain'>the fpr will be installed on the driver-side end of the fuel rail. Â*there are two bolts (10mm i believe) holding it on to the fuel rail. Â*</div>

you mean on the passenger side, correct? looking at the car from the front, standing over the engine bay, you want it on the LEFT side...right? that's the fuel delivery line

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sabzi5858)</div><div class='quotemain'>the fpr will be installed on the driver-side end of the fuel rail. Â*there are two bolts (10mm i believe) holding it on to the fuel rail. Â*</div>

you mean on the passenger side, correct? looking at the car from the front, standing over the engine bay, you want it on the LEFT side...right? that's the fuel delivery line</div>

Nope... passenger side is wrong.

Your stock FPR is located on the driver side, at the right side end of the fuel rail.

the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) will be on the drivers side, as stated. it is to maintain pressure in the fuel rail to supply the fuel injectors with adequate fuel pressure. it is not to restrict flow to the injectors, as it would do if it were before the fuel rail.

a fuel pressure gauge (or gauge sender for an elecronic gauge) will be mount anywhere before the FPR (or on it if it has a port). popular places to mount are on the fuel filter, on the fuel supply line (between filter and fuel rail), on the fuel rail (risky, rail needs to be machined), or on the FPR. the B&M gauge goes on the filter, it replaces the banjo bolt, and is a mechanical gauge. you can only read it from the engine bay. the bolt it uses to replace the banjo bolt is also suspected to cause a restriction in the fuel path. i have replaced the stock fuel filter, and the supply line up to the fuel rail with SS braided hose, and have a gauge port installed in the line. i have an electronic gauge installed, this way, i can watch fuel pressure while driving. if you want advice on how to do this, ask.

where can i get braided fuel lines to install the fpr? Are the 2ng gen injectors from eclipse turbo 450cc direct bolt on or needs mod? Is the fuel pump on galants in fuel tank or outside, is it hard to replace? i post some pics later today to show what i have so far....

here are some pics still need to sand and powdercoat the piping...
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2x7ri/

http://www.autoalchemy.com/ has the adapter for the fuel rail to attatch AN fittings.

keep in mind that SS fuel hose is very expensive. you should be able to get it just about anywhere, especially hotrodding and muscle car places, like ramchargers, maybe summit racing, jeg's, etc. you can use earl's or other AN fittings which should also be available there, or from surplus.

the injectors are bolt-ons, but you will need an s-afc or similar device to manage them. or upgrade to the 2g ECU. i can't really tell how big the turbo is, but if you're not going to run a lot of boost, you should be fine with 450's. i'm going to assume that your bottom end is stock, and so you probably will not be pushing much boost. infact, you better not push a lot of boost, because i can already tell that you don't know how to tune. the fuel pump is in the fuel tank, go to vfaq.com and look for the procedure for fuel pumps in a 2g FWD, it is very similar to ours.

are you using the stock MAF? (air metering sensor) i would appreciate it if you started answering more of my questions, it is very frustrating trying to help you when you are only responding to half of what i'm saying. i hope you are reading more than half of what you encounter, or you might end up with "half" of a turbo setup.

let me just say something to anyone thinking about a turbo setup.. it is not just a "bolt-on" affair in that you can just bolt a bunch of crap to your engine and expect it to run good. the biggest part of being fast is tuning. if you can't tune for crap, you aren't going to run for crap. my car is a pretty good example of this, a 13.8@108 is crappy tuning for my setup (as well as crappy driving/no traction). if you want to get your money's worth, tuning is the biggest part of the recipe. not to mention, it can prevent your engine from experiencing catastrophic failure. and if you're going to do something wrong, give it too much fuel like i did, not too little, too little will kill an engine much quicker than pretty much anything short of starving it of oil or cooling.

choose your turbo setup. this will dictate what fuel upgrades you need. the bigger the turbo(ie. the more air you will be pushing into the engine), the more fuel you will need to be able to feed the engine.

decide on your method of tuning. this will depend on your setup. if you are running 450s with the 2g ecu, an s-afc should be adequate, because you shouldn't have to make too large of adjustments. but if you're going to run 750s, don't make the mistake i did, and think you can get away with just an s-afc.

As I mentioned already above, you will need to wire in the resistor pack when installing the new injectors.

Yes, the SS fuel hose can be found at Summit, but it will cost a lot. Buddy of mine is using SS hose for EVERYTHING. Crazy expensive I tell ya.

98galant, PLEASE read through the http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/4G64/ and http://www.dsmtuners.com forums. Research and knowledge is key.

yeah, sorry about that, like brandon said, you will need to wire in the resistor pack for any eclipse injectors. JIP has posted a tutorial for wiring in a 2g head, it also contains how to wire in the resistor pack, look in the 7g performance section for the post about changing the wiring.

any body has a pic of a resistor pack so i know what it looks like.. I will go to junk yard for turbo injectors from 2g eclipse and resistor pack..
Also would this work http://www.7453217467431.com/products/prod...D=1089236854140 look under universal accessories they say they are universal high impedence and i found this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ame=rvi%3A1%3A1

www.mitsubishigraveyard.com is a good place to get stuff. I bought a lot of my parts from them. Also try www.dsmtrader.com

The ebay link is what you want though.

Here's a pic of my resistor pack:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...87_26_full.jpg

how hard is it to install Apex-i S-AFC II and set it up????

The walbro 255 fuel pump is it for eclipse 1g or 2g or it does not matter??? How hard to install it?

I emailed you about the S-AFC... it really isn't difficult at all to install. You can follow Seth's tutorial in the 7G performance forum, and since you have a '98, the diagram should match exactly as far as pin #s and such.

Just make sure you solder everything and you should be good to go. Also, for your RPM signal, you should tap the crank sensor (learned that from Jip). https://www.thegalantcenter.org/styl...ault/smile.gif

Also, for the fuel pump, you'll want the 2G setup.